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Let's don't forget our once a month battery charge and startup?

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    Let's don't forget our once a month battery charge and startup?

    Worked half summer getting my carbs Right!
    Don't want to have to do it again this summer!
    My bike has sat now Bout 5 weeks.
    I vowed to startup once a month till riding season starts.
    Yesterday was the day.
    2a charge half a day. Then I started and ran 10 min.
    Just a reminder to all who Forget?

    #2
    A better reminder would be to treat the gas with stabilizer, fully charge your AGM battery, change the oil, then FORGET IT until you are ready to go for a ride.

    Starting a bike and not getting it up to FULL operating temperature is the largest killer, especially of exhaust systems. All you are going to do is collect condensation, which will promote rust and corrosion from the inside. The condensation will build in the crankcase, where it will mix with the oil. If the oil is not fresh, acids can form, which will attack bearing surfaces. Certainly you have seen rusted out exhaust systems? Guess how they got that way.

    The best policy is to not start the bike unless you are going for a ride. A ride of 20-30 minutes should be sufficient. If you are worried about your battery, go ahead and top it off every month or so, but an AGM battery in decent condition should not need anything over the winter.

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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      #3
      I drain the carb bowls and remove the vacuum and main fuel lines off the petcock. Battery on the Battery Tender JR and walk away.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        Suzuki details how to store the bike inside the Owners Manual for each bike. Basscliff's website has the manuals for most GS's if anyone needs one.

        BTW, as Steve states, Stabil works great. I use the marine version which is blue/green and never a problem after that. Previously my GS would plug up the pilot jets in just a few months storage but I've never had that issue since adopting the Stabil approach. It helps prevent gas tank rust too.
        Last edited by Nessism; 12-21-2017, 08:57 AM.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #5
          Originally posted by Steve View Post
          A better reminder would be to treat the gas with stabilizer, fully charge your AGM battery, change the oil, then FORGET IT until you are ready to go for a ride.

          Starting a bike and not getting it up to FULL operating temperature is the largest killer, especially of exhaust systems. All you are going to do is collect condensation, which will promote rust and corrosion from the inside. The condensation will build in the crankcase, where it will mix with the oil. If the oil is not fresh, acids can form, which will attack bearing surfaces. Certainly you have seen rusted out exhaust systems? Guess how they got that way.

          The best policy is to not start the bike unless you are going for a ride. A ride of 20-30 minutes should be sufficient. If you are worried about your battery, go ahead and top it off every month or so, but an AGM battery in decent condition should not need anything over the winter.

          .
          +1

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
            I drain the carb bowls and remove the vacuum and main fuel lines off the petcock. Battery on the Battery Tender JR and walk away.
            Why remove the lines from the petcock?
            Jordan

            1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
            2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
            1973 BMW R75/5

            Comment


              #7
              Because its an old habit I guess from when I used to leave fuel in the tank. But if you do leave fuel in the tank and should the petcock fail, freeze and crack a diaphragm, or any other malfunction occur it wont fill you engine with gas. And if it drips youll probably find it from the sudden appearance of a gas smell in your garage. I have even heard of guys pinching off lines with hemostats but Im not that fond of pinching up lines.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment


                #8
                If it's only for the winter months I just add stabilizer to a full tank of premium fuel and run it until nice and hot, preferably a short ride if possible to make sure it's fully up to temperature and carbs are full of stabilized fuel and pull the battery out for maintenance. An oil change at this time would be good as well depending on it's age. I've stored them over the winter wet like this for decades with no trouble at all and in the spring I just go out turn it to prime while I put the battery in, choke it and start it. If it's going be a longer term storage then having the carbs dry is probably a good idea and if it's a really long term then drain the tank as well but make sure it's vented as you will get some condensation inside. Probably the worst thing you can do as mentioned is to occasionally run it. Probably no harm for short term storage if it's stored wet or dry though, just personal preference.
                '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
                https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg

                Comment


                  #9
                  I'm really learning alot from this thread. Thanks you guys!


                  Ed
                  GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
                  GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
                  GSX-R750Y (Sold)

                  my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I rode 125 miles today! Still trying to get warm! Shortest day of the year. I try to ride all my bikes at least once every couple weeks here in the Oregon Coast...
                    1982 GS1100EZ, second owner, 11,000 miles
                    2000 XR650R, plated

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by hannibal View Post
                      Why remove the lines from the petcock?
                      I assumed it was to run the engine until it starved of gas, thus getting all fuel out of carbs. On my GS I don't drain the carbs, but instead add fuel stabilizer and run it on idle to mix up the fuel, then cover the bike in dust (not moisture barrier/trap) cover and forget it.

                      I keep my battery in the bike, with harness attached. On top of this I install my battery charger/tender. I don't leave it plugged in though, since the harness is also attached, and even with the charger's auto shut-off I don't want to stress the wiring. So I run it for a couple of hours every two weeks or so until the charger says "done". My plan is to leave the charger SAE connection on the battery permanently so I can use it for USB phone charging, etc.
                      1982 Suzuki GS650G

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                        #12
                        When it appears that my riding season is about over, I stabilize the tank's fuel and aim for two cold starts with 1/2 hour rides. The reason for two cold starts is to ensure that stabilized fuel finds its way into enricher circuit passages on second start.
                        I charge the AGM battery every other month.
                        1981 gs650L

                        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Riding Season? Storage?
                          I'm spoiled, but I did ride in the rain today.
                          1981 Suzuki GS250T
                          1982 Yamaha Seca Turbo
                          1985 Suzuki GS550E
                          2004 Suzuki GSF1200S

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                            #14
                            Went down to 65f a few days this week ... whew been tough riding!!

                            Today will be 70+ .. maybe I can get out there without freezing my nads off.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Steve View Post
                              an AGM battery in decent condition should not need anything over the winter.

                              Unless you own a Harley with "theft deterrent" system that flashes a red light on the speedo every few seconds.

                              The dealership says it's the fact that the system is constantly searching for the fob that causes the battery to drain.

                              In any case, my battery goes dead if I don't start it for a few moments every 20 days or less.
                              1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                              2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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