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About Anti-Seize/Threadlock (in the context of stainless steel fasteners)

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    About Anti-Seize/Threadlock (in the context of stainless steel fasteners)

    Hoh, hope I won't ruffle too many feather with this topic title

    Anyway, having had my share of stuck bolts - luckily all "just" a learning experience for me on how to get em loose - I use anti-seize on all bolts on my motorcyles.

    Leaving the topic of fastening torque aside (on which there are many different opinions/documents to be found), there isn't much else to consider when re-using bolts or using bolts of the same grade as OEM.

    I however use stainless when replacing bolts, and hence there is a risk (at least) of bimetallic corrosion - that may be true of the original fasteners as well, dunno.

    Using the right anti-seize/threadlock compound will either increase or reduce that risk. It's about the metallic components, sulfur content, conductivity...quite a bit.

    So I'd like to pick the GSR hive mind before deciding on (a) particular product(s).

    These ones I've selected as possible candidates:
    - Weicon Anti-Seize ASA400 (this one I already use).
    - Weicon Anti-Seize ASW400
    - Loctite LB 8023
    - Loctite LB 8013 (might be overkill)
    - ...maybe something you are already using?

    From what I've learned so far, the most important (if not sole) thing to stop galvanic corrosion is to prevent any electrolyte be present between the two dissimilar metals.

    This infers that the most important property of the anti-seize compoud is its ability to stay in place (so on our bikes, won't be washed out easily by water or oil).
    #1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread        New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
    #2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread     Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
    #3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
    #4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill

    #2
    I usually use Permatex 80078 on everything.
    1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

    Comment


      #3
      I don't know the number(s), but I have been told that when stainless and aluminum are involved, you want a copper-based anti-sieze.

      .
      sigpic
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      Comment


        #4
        I just bought some Loctite 51605. It's metal free and therefore no worries about galvanic corrosion. The heat range is also better than the copper.

        -Dave
        82 GS1100E
        five asses because it's far superior to having just four!
        Yes, I watched too much South Park!

        Comment


          #5
          I've heard that copper is best too. I use regular aluminum type though because that's what the local auto parts store stocks and I've used the same bottle for many years now. Main thing: use anti seize.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Copper is much more popular in the UK as a General anti-seize and it's what I use most of the time. Harder to find here but I just grab a tube when I go back there...
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

            Comment


              #7
              This stuff. It's cheap and available anywhere, contains Aluminum, Copper, and Graphite in some sort of waxy greaseish pasty glop.

              Permatex 80078/80071 (I've also seen it in tubes)



              "A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant - ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E."
              1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
              2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
              2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
              Eat more venison.

              Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

              Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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              Comment


                #8
                Yep I've used that one too & it seems to work. To be honest though I don't think any of things get remotely "tested" out here in So-Cal...
                1980 GS1000G - Sold
                1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                Comment


                  #9
                  If galvanic corrosion is the problem Al and Steel potential is about 0.1 Volt but Copper with Al or Steel is pushing the 0.5 Volt mark. Some authorities arbitrarily say thou shalt not exceed 0.2 and so on depending on the environment.
                  I use Duralac joint paste for various things including highly stressed Monel or stainless rivets for stainless fittings on aluminium tubes in saltwater. It acts both as a locker and the best inhibitor I've ever seen.
                  MB Fibreglass of Northern Ireland (Mcconnell Bro's)- Supplying throughout the UK & Ireland
                  97 R1100R
                  Previous
                  80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have a big old old can of Neverseize graphite so I am using it up where I imagine it may help, but I'm not a fan of any stainless into aluminum that needs any torque whatever -the original bolts were bad enough....

                    It is a big subject. Stuff from the interweb like this inclines me against copper.... But unfortunately too much of these infos always come down to how their product is the very best, so I am just inclined to stick with whatever crap is handy
                    For instance, from


                    "COPPER BASE

                    Copper base anti-seize offers good corrosion protection on all kinds of steel, but not stainless steel. Copper on stainless steel creates an inter-crystaline corrosion, which can make actual stainless steel parts crack and break. This is why the nuclear power plants do not allow copper with any material which comes in contact with the stainless steel parts."

                    might be true- It agrees with what I generally think I know already but of course it ends with their own come-on:
                    "Depac Metal-Free Anti-Seize can be used in all applications, is free of any hazardous metal particles, is nontoxic, and is totally environmentally friendly.".......

                    Last edited by Gorminrider; 02-17-2018, 01:14 PM.

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