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Front wheel bearing removal- what's the trick?

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    Front wheel bearing removal- what's the trick?

    I grabbed the front wheel hub this morning to replace the bearings..I have to!
    Got the drift punch thru from one side to the other, through the center spacer that can move over "a little" so the center punch can try to get a bite on the bearing, but it keeps slipping off the bearings inner race section...just not enough bite for the punch.

    So, what's your trick to remove the front wheel bearings and center spacer...mostly the bearings since once I get one out it should be real easy to get the other...
    Hub in question is a GT750 wire spoke hub.

    #2
    Originally posted by 80GS850GBob View Post
    I grabbed the front wheel hub this morning to replace the bearings..I have to!
    Got the drift punch thru from one side to the other, through the center spacer that can move over "a little" so the center punch can try to get a bite on the bearing, but it keeps slipping off the bearings inner race section...just not enough bite for the punch.

    So, what's your trick to remove the front wheel bearings and center spacer...mostly the bearings since once I get one out it should be real easy to get the other...
    Hub in question is a GT750 wire spoke hub.
    Not sure of any trick other than the way your doing it. They can be a pain sometimes getting it to bite. You could try some heat. Maybe heat expansion will help. I've use heat and cold before to install crank bearings. If it's just the hub and not the whole rim, you could try putting it in the freezer for a day and the apply some heat to the outer hub with a propane torch. It should expand quicker than the steel bearings.
    :cool:GSRick
    No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.

    Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
    Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by gsrick View Post
      Not sure of any trick other than the way your doing it. They can be a pain sometimes getting it to bite. You could try some heat. Maybe heat expansion will help. I've use heat and cold before to install crank bearings. If it's just the hub and not the whole rim, you could try putting it in the freezer for a day and the apply some heat to the outer hub with a propane torch. It should expand quicker than the steel bearings.
      I can try that {freezer}...the drift punch here is a tad rounded and I think that's what's messing with me...the one at work is faced off with a sharper edge. I'll try that one tomorrow I guess.
      I knoiw once I get one out it'll be easy...it's just getting that one out...lol..ugh.

      Comment


        #4
        I need to swap from a 15mm ID to 20mm ID...the center spacer will be the tough part to change and I'll probably have to get one milled or something....one problem at a time I guess...

        Comment


          #5
          There are tools that handle this chore with ease. One is made by 'Pit Posse' -- haven't heard of them lately though. You drop a slotted insert into the ID. It barely fits. You press a wedge into the insert's slot, and drive than in a little with a hammer, which spreads the insert apart just a little, enough to grab the bearing's ID tightly. Then you just smack the insert, and out comes your bearing.

          I almost broke my porch storm door window with an airborne bearing doing this!

          You're in Aurora? I'm in Joliet; I can lend you the tool if you wish. I have it here.
          and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
          __________________________________________________ ______________________
          2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

          Comment


            #6
            Not an expert but I have found that one bearing is typically easier to remove than the other.
            Lowes & HomeDepot have punches with squared ends that have worked well for me.


            If the wheel is resting on the tire sidewall, then the tire will absorb much of the shock and make it harder to pound out a bearing.

            Comment


              #7
              We are taught at MMI to place the wheel on two 2x4 boards to raise it off the rotor, but I think he is dealing with just a center hb from a wire wheel, which I think will be difficult to hold still.
              :cool:GSRick
              No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.

              Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
              Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.

              Comment


                #8
                I use a large brass type drift and file an angle on it so it is less likely to slip off, once you get one out the other is easy.
                '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
                https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg

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                  #9
                  Rebar for me..with a slight curve so the end hooks into the bearings a little. May take several taps in different spots so it comes out relatively flat and doesnt start to bind.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have one of these and it works great. Definitely worth the cost if you plan on tinkering on old bikes.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Just did a GT500 hub yesterday that I’m breaking down for polishing & clear coating. Its the same as a GT750 hub but with only one disk.


                      Had removed the tire a few days ago & started by removing the disk.
                      The bearings are recessed so to start I rested the hub center directly on one 2x4. Held the punch by pressing it against the opposite side of the opposite bearing. A light blow with a heavy mallet got it started & then switched to two 2x4s so the bearing could drop out.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Barber1303 View Post
                        I have one of these and it works great. Definitely worth the cost if you plan on tinkering on old bikes.

                        https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-PP1...dp/B004MAPN42/
                        Just watched the video. Definitely a neato tool worth having.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Barber1303 View Post
                          I have one of these and it works great. Definitely worth the cost if you plan on tinkering on old bikes.

                          https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-PP1...dp/B004MAPN42/
                          Oh...I do like to tinker...
                          1000g wheel parts 001.jpg

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by jabcb View Post
                            Just did a GT500 hub yesterday that I’m breaking down for polishing & clear coating. Its the same as a GT750 hub but with only one disk.


                            Had removed the tire a few days ago & started by removing the disk.
                            The bearings are recessed so to start I rested the hub center directly on one 2x4. Held the punch by pressing it against the opposite side of the opposite bearing. A light blow with a heavy mallet got it started & then switched to two 2x4s so the bearing could drop out.
                            I tried that approach but I guess my punch is a little too rounded off.....and I thought some GT550s had provisions/holes for two discs? {well- I thought...}

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 80GS850GBob View Post
                              I tried that approach but I guess my punch is a little too rounded off.....and I thought some GT550s had provisions/holes for two discs? {well- I thought...}
                              The GT250, GT380, GT500, GT550 & GT750 hubs are the same. They were drilled for two disks even though Suzuki only used two disks on the GT750.


                              I have a GT550 that’s been upgraded to two disks.
                              We used the salty_monk twin-piston upgrade on a GT250 cafe build. It requires swapping the fork tube assemblies & mounting the disk on the other side. The hub has to stay as is because of the speedo drive.

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