Seat Pan Repair (Weld, JB Weld, or Fiberglass?)

[Sam 78 GS750]

So I thought my seat was in great shape and just needed to be painted. Then I got the cover and foam off... It's in OK shape. There are spots where its completely rusted and brittle, mostly at the edges and where the hooks are to attach the cover.

I'm gonna get it sand blasted and then see what I'm left with, but I don't think it's too bad. It will need some kind of repair though.

At first I was thinking if it's just the hooks, I can JB Weld those spots and then use a can opener (the kind you would use to put two holes in a pineapple juice can to pour) to make new hooks in different spots. Then I was thinking drilling holes for rivets may be a better idea for how to attach a new cover.

I decided not to reinvent the wheel, and did a search on the forums. I found this really old post here --->https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...at-pan-repairs. Post #4 is a pretty good write up where a guy laid fiberglass over the top and bottom. Sounds like a lot of messy work, especially since I have zero experience with fiberglass and zero desire to learn. I'm also wondering if the seat will sit right after, since the same mounting hardware will be used on a now much thicker seat pan. May also be overkill for this seat, but I'll know better after it's sand blasted.

The other option is to weld in some new metal where the rot is. I have zero experience welding, but I really would like to learn how. Not looking to invest in the equipment right now though. I could just drop it off to a shop and let them handle it...

Whichever method I use, I'm thinking rivets instead of the hooks would be the way to go for attaching a new cover. How far from the edge should I drill the holes?

Any thoughts from folks who have been down this road before?

[jsandidge]

I had the same problem. First, I sandblasted it to get rid of all rust and old paint. I then cut some strips of new metal, cutting some new triangle hooks to pierce the cover. I then used one of the inexpensive torches that mounts onto a small MAPP gas bottle. Using a stick of silver solder and flux, I brazed on the new pieces. I've never welded either, brazing like this is simple. Just make sure to clean the area with flux, and let the solder flow in. I then re-painted with epoxy primer. It has held up very well for 2 years now.

[bwringer]

It's stamped sheet metal, so it's going to flex a little -- JB weld won't do any good.

The best option is to find a seat pan in better shape. Failing that, then it's a standard sheet metal repair. And it doesn't even need to be all that pretty, so a buddy with a little body shop experience could do pretty well. Just make sure you don't add much to the side facing the bike or you might have fitment issues. The seat foam will conceal quite a bit of ugliness.

The fiberglass techniques can work pretty well too, with a bit of care.

[chuck hahn]

I would weld a thin plate on the foam side of the pan to cover any bad holes and then you will have a backer for some body filler on the side that shows. Do some filler and repaint and no ones really gonna know except you. as for the seat tacks......weld new ones in.

https://www.ebay.com/i/253460438857?chn=ps&dispItem=1

[Sam 78 GS750]

Didn't think about brazing as an option...I do have some brazing rods I've never used, but I am quite handy with soldering...seems to be the same basic concept.

Chuck, I like the idea of plates on the foam side and body filler on the frame side. Seems well suited to spots in the middle of the pan...Would this work since the rot is only on the edges and not in the middle?

[chuck hahn]

You can form thinner sheet metal to some degree to get around a curved area. Just depends on how hard you want to work on it...LOL

[salty_monk]

If they are only Pin holes you can paint it with POR15 tank liner & let it dry, then paint over the top if you want it black... You may need to tape the back of the holes first.

[aclaytonb]

KBS chassis coat works well too.

[Gorminrider]

I'd go for fibreglass myself. Id be doing both side through holes in the metal versus "patching..so really, the pan is a stay-in-place mold- OR do one side over wax paper and junk the steel but for this, any tricky bits (pads, locks, mounting brackets) have to be added too.

Attaching the cover..well you can actually get new metal "tack strips" on ebay I think? seen em somewhere... another idea I have is to attach strips of pvc and staple the cover (stainless staples) as is done on the plastic pans.... not sure of the exact plastic they use on seatpans but try some staples in your material choice beforehand, eh? Rivets? meh. I'd be worried the tops would show on the tight cover outside. Self- tapping screws are a possible IF they are short of course and IF the material to take them is built up so the sharp tips don't come through against the cover ..thinking FG to thicken up here but a batten of hardwood (non-cracking ) or again, a filler strip of plastic variety

[80GS850GBob]

You could look locally for a body shop....they could grind and weld any holes or cracks for you. Sand those down and youd be good as new....hardest part would be to have the pan flat and not warped afterwards...
I need to have my 1000g seat pan fixed and plan on the welding thing since the PO obviously used the grab handle as a bike lifting point....ugh.