Fork tube tops removal?

[Suzuki Mad]

MY GS1000 has the air ride fork tops, that are unobtainable and I have been scared of trying to put a spanner to them as they have been in the fork tubes for 37 years.

Any tricks on how to get them out without breaking them? There is no nut top like on the GS750 to put a socket on just the air ride shape.

Its taken 3 years but I have managed to source new fork tops, so if they are well and truly stuck in place I have spares.

[Steve]

Any tricks on how to get them out without breaking them?

If that is the same top as I have on the 1000G and 850G, the method I use is to loosen the clamps on the fork tube, slide it up a couple of inches, then tighten the clamps again. Now that the fork tube is secure, use an adjustable spanner and twist the top off. It will take 10-12 turns to remove it, be careful as you near the end. There will be a bit of push on the cap, but not enough to send it across the room.

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[Suzuki Mad]

IMG_0620.jpgThis is my fork tops.

[Steve]

Yep. Remove the chrome cover to expose the Schrader valve, then adjust your spanner to about 19mm, or whatever it takes to reach across the flats.

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[Suzuki Mad]

Cheers Steve.

Planning on taking the bars, clocks, headlight and tank off to give me more space so I dont damage anything.

[Steve]

Just slide the fork tube high enough so none of that stuff will be in the way.

Let the forks go all the way to the left stop, the bike will be a perfect vice to hold the tube whilst you twist the top off.

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[Suzuki Mad]

Wheel nuts, mudguard and brace, brakes, speedo are already loose so its only the yokes (triple trees for you guy's) that's holding it all together.

[Steve]

Not a problem, leaving the fork tubes clamped in place is a great place to have them while removing the caps.

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[Downs]

Yup what Steve said. I have those same tops on my 78 1000. Easier to take off then my STROM fork tube caps.

[Gumpster]

One word of caution, only loosen the caps and don't fully remove until the bike is supported with the front wheel suspended. Those caps push against the springs to hold up the front end.

[chuck hahn]

I was just gonna mention to have the front wheel off the ground to relieve spring tension. And you can place a drain pan on some 4x4 blocks and slid it under the fork end, bleed the air, and remove the drain screw. Then gently stand on the foot pegs and bounce a little to pump the oil out. Do this before lifting the wheel off the ground.

[Steve]

I measured a spare cap last night, it's just over 21mm across, so your spanner should be no more than 22mm.

If you use Imperial wrenches, that's just a bit under 7/8".

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[Suzuki Mad]

Yep, thats how I was going to attack it once the bars are out of the way.



That's all the fork parts, less oil, going back in or to cover if case of stuff getting damaged coming out.

[Redman]

All this talk about "front wheel off the ground" had me realize that I usually have the front wheel removed from the forks when removing the cap. (in preperation for removing the fork tubes).
But, yah, if wheel and axle were still in place, that would help with holding the tube from turning when trying to break the cap loose. But having the wheel off and just the triple clamps holding the tube has always been OKay.

Having bars out of the way may help a little bit. I have never don that.
What I have done is have the bike suspended from above by the sterring neck.
Does not need to up high at all. When have the wheel off and axle out, that provides enough room for the tube to slide down and out of the tripple clamps.



I always though the bigger question has "how to get the cap back on". Problem is pushing against the spring while trying to get those fine threads started.
Trick I have learned is to try it without the insert, so is no spring pressure, turn it backwards slowly till can see where the treads start to mate, and then take good notice of where that is. THen put back the insert, and while pushing the cap in position and trying to line up the threads have the cap just a small ways off from the position you know it needs to be to line up with threads.

[GSXR7ED]

I remember when it was suggested to replace the fork oil and used a standard socket to remove those caps. The handlebar was off which made it easier to get to caps.

I like the look of new OEM parts. Thanks for sharing your work...and of course all the feedback this great GSR crowd provides!


Ed