Cam Chain Tensioner Rebuild

[Guest]

I am aware of the excellent article on reconditioning the GS cam chain tensioner by bwringer.com. However, I should have read this BEFORE I started! I have removed the tensioner from my GS550 without first setting the engine to TDC, (I assume cylinder 1 would have been correct). Where do I go from here in order to put the tensioner back. I have the workshop manual for the bike.

[Nessism]

Assuming you have not rotated the crank since removing the tensioner, I'd wind up the tensioner, set the lock screw, install the tensioner, release the lock screw/nut, and then check the cam alignment per the manual. Worst case you have to remove the tensioner again and reset if the cams moved but you won't know until you try.

[Steve]

Agreed. I have never understood the need to set the pistons to TDC if all you are doing is removing the tensioner. If you are removing the cams, yeah, set to TDC, but like Nessism said, just don't move the crank, then re-install the tensioner.

When you re-install, be sure to follow the directions properly:
1. Retract the plunger on the tensioner and use the set screw to lock it in place.
2. Install the tensioner on the cylinder block.
3. Loosen the set screw to release the plunger, you should see the large knob move.
4. Turn the set screw IN until it stops, then back OUT 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock it in place with the lock nut.
5. Rotate the engine at least two full turns by hand. You might see the large knob move a bit more, that's OK.

Too many times, guys will read the first part of #4, but not the second, then skip to the third. They will turn the screw IN and lock it there. That will not allow the plunger to move to do its job of taking up slack in the cam chain.

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[bwringer]

Agreed, 90% - 99% of the time you can remove the Cam Chain Tensioner in any old position, and as long as you don't crank the engine or move the crankshaft, you can reinstall, release, and it'll be fine.

I included the instruction to set to TDC first out of an abundance of caution. If you skipped this, proceed as normal but after reassembly at least turn the crankshaft manually through at least two revolutions to make sure nothing's whacking anything else.

If the engine won't turn, is hard to start, won't run right, and/or you heard a sproingy thwack at any point, the camshafts may have skipped time, so you'd have to remove the valve cover to investigate and rectify the situation. Or, of course, if you moved the crankshaft. But with the valve cover in place, the cam chain is pretty well restrained, so it usually isn't a problem.

[GSXR7ED]

Again, yet another good thread for information purposes! Plus, it's on BassCliff's site too.


Ed

[the schwartz]

I'm going to add to this thread instead of starting a new one and just creating more jumbled.

I'm also reading the article on BW ringer, and want to look at my cam chain tensioner. I am leaking some oil from there and had planned originally to just take it off to replace the gasket. Am I missing the boat by doing only that, without also replacing the o-ring that ringer mentions on his tutorial?

I hate to keep adding things to my while I'm at it list, my work on the bike and it's down time just keeps growing, but I do want to do it right and not have to worry about opening things back up again anytime in the near future.

[Redman]

............... replacing the o-ring ..............
.....

oring and seal.
the seal being the more likely cause of oil leak.

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[bwringer]

Yep, the leak is 100% coming from the seal, and the o-ring is glass hard and cracked and will leak the second you move the setscrew. The one thing that's almost certainly NOT leaking is the gasket.

Do it right or don't bother!

[the schwartz]

Thanks both. I'll do it now if I get the parts before I finish the carbs, or leave it till winter. Either way I'll do it right. Appreciate the wisdom.

[Steve]

Do it right or don't bother!

That is just a shorter version of what I say.

Any shortcut taken is just another opportunity to do it over and do it right.

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