Fork seal issue - not seating right.

[Guest]

A while back I had a fork seal go, I replaced both and upgraded the springs etc, but on one side it was hard getting it seated evenly and when putting it back together it was still weeping slightly.

Decided to have another go, but I'm struggling. The seal won't seat far enough down to get the washer and the circlip seated. I noticed in the Clymer manual the GL shows the seal with no washer, just the circlip. But the G has both. I think If I just had the circlip without the washer I could do it but is that OK?

I can see the seal looks like it should go down further as it's not sitting on the lip but no amount of bashing is getting it done, it's just wreaking the seal. Lucky I bought two, so I've got a second chance, but before I attempt again and knacker that one I thought I'd ask.

Any YouTube videos I've watched to check I've got the theory and method right show I'm doing the right thing but no one has to put in the effort I'm needing to, plus I did the other side OK.

The circlip on this side is actually a wire not a flat clip, if you know the kind I mean, would that make any difference?

Anyone else had a similar issue and anyone got any tips?

[Steve]

The circlip on this side is actually a wire not a flat clip, if you know the kind I mean, would that make any difference?

Are you saying that your two clips are different?

That would imply to me that someone has possibly changed one of the fork legs.

Unless you have owned the bike from when it was NEW, or have known the person that has, you will never know for sure.

.

[eddypeck]

yes the two clips are different one side has an internal circlip


the other has a wire one, like this


(Both images are generic google search, not my actual parts.)

The circlip side is fine, but I can't see how the clip would make much difference. And looking at diagrams it would appear the wire type is original and perhaps the circlip has been added when the original part was lost?


However it wouldn't surprise me if a fork leg has been swapped. I think remember there is reference in the documentation that came with the bike to a damaged thread for the mudguard fixing but there's no sign of damage on the bike now. However both seem to match in finish and style so even if replaced can only be from the same model surely - perhaps a different year?

The thickness of the wire can't be that difference to the thickness of the circlip and the seal isn't going in far enough to expose the slot cleanly with the washer on top. Beating down the seal further just starts to distort it.

In my Clymer manual it shows the seal, washer and clip however I noticed on a google search this diagram came up for a 1981 showing the wire clip with no, washer... part 3 and 4.



Do you think it will be ok to leave off the washer? As I think this will solve my fitment issue.

[steveb922]

Eddy, going purely by your indicators, i reckon you have a 1981 GX. And yes, indicators are an easy part to change over, so it's by no means definitive. But having said that, I would omit the washer (and ideally source a new 'Ring, stopper' (51156-40301), and reassemble. Should be good to go.

[standswithabeer]

when ordering fork seals for my 79 GS750L, all the catalogs have the wrong seals listed. maybe the seal you are trying to install is too thick? what is the old seal number, compared to new? you can measure the depth available with a set of calipers, and subtract the seal width.

for what it's worth, my wire retainers are a little rusty and next time i'm in there they'll be replaced with circlip.

[sharpy]

get genuine seals and wire clips with washers if needed and put some waterproof grease on the wire when installed. And for christ sake stop using s***ty manuals. Genuine ones are free to download at... http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/

[dorkburger]

I had the same problem. Turns out that I had the seal installed upside down. Neither the factory manual nor Haynes made mention of seal orientation. It wasn't until I closely looked at the seal that I noticed that it was directional. No indication on the seal itself either.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

get genuine seals and wire clips with washers if needed and put some waterproof grease on the wire when installed. And for christ sake stop using s***ty manuals. Genuine ones are free to download at... http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/

Hey Sharpy, or anyone else wanting to chime in,
I've not found the exact service manual for my bike on http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/. The other OEM service manuals there for 750s seem to all show forks other than what I have, most have leading axles. I plan to replace fork seals this winter. My Clymer manual seems to have pretty comprehensive supplemental info on the differences in the "T" model, especially the forks. Honest question from a novice: Is there a better reference that I should be using to perform this work.

[eddypeck]

Well something I've learnt with age is it's always better if you have the right tools for the job.

I was trying to seat the seal with a large socket (which wasn't quite the right size but was the best I could do). So as I was only doing one seal and had a pair in the pack I binned the first attempt and decided to go again and this time invested in a big chunk of metal designed for the job.



There's a fair amount of weight to this, a couple of bashes with a lump hammer and the seal was pushed into place nice and square.

And on this occasion I've left out the ring washer, and just using the wire clip. I suspect the ring washer is designed to be used if an internal cirlip is used and that over the years bits have been changed/lost/swapped ??

Either way, fork rebuilt now, loaded with oil and air and back on the bike.

I still need to refit both wheels after getting new tyres fitted, so fingers crossed for the test ride.

Worse case the fork seal will still leak and I'll just do it again. At least I know how now, I've had a few attempts at it.