Any Tricks for Getting the Bottom Socket Cap Bolt loose on front Forks?

[Rich82GS750TZ]

WingMan71. If there's a way for you to tell what size nut would fit in the top of the damper rod that would be awesome. Or if anyone else knows definitively. I can't seem to find a concrete answer in all my searching. I'm about ready to do fork seals and I think I want to make a tool with all thread and nuts. I do like your solution though. I'm not too worried about removal as I have an air impact gun. I'm more concerned about holding the damper rod to torque the bolt when I finish the job.
Thanks for the in-depth reporting.

[WingMan71]

WingMan71. If there's a way for you to tell what size nut would fit in the top of the damper rod that would be awesome. Or if anyone else knows definitively. I can't seem to find a concrete answer in all my searching. I'm about ready to do fork seals and I think I want to make a tool with all thread and nuts. I do like your solution though. I'm not too worried about removal as I have an air impact gun. I'm more concerned about holding the damper rod to torque the bolt when I finish the job.
Thanks for the in-depth reporting.

I did look around my shop to see if I had a metric nut that would fit in the top of the damper rod. So far I haven't found one that fits.

I'll keep looking, and at least I will get my digital micrometer out and measure the darn thing so at least we will know that.

Stand by...

[Sandy]

19mm or 3/4" is usually what size that is. Couple of options are 1/2" ready rod double nutted on the end or a 5/8" spark plug socket upside down on a couple of extensions.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Brilliant! Thanks Sandy. Previously when I read about the upside-down sp socket I wasn't understanding it. All I had to do was look at it (the back side of it) to get it through my thick skull. Also had to take the rubber sleeve out to get the extension through from the front side. I have what I need to get started. Sometimes is takes me a while but I'm learning.
IMG_0191.jpg

[Redman]

...............
Once removed, I did find out that there is a hex (more like octo) pattern in the top of the damper rods. So, that can clearly be used to hold the rod with the proper sized nut on an all-thread as some suggested.
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WingMan71. If there's a way for you to tell what size nut would fit in the top of the damper rod that would be awesome. Or if anyone else knows definitively. I can't seem to find a concrete answer in all my searching. .......................

I made such a tool per instruction found here on GSR a few years ago. WOrks fine.

24" piece of 5/8th all thread rod.
two 5/8 nuts double-nutted together on one end (that goes into tube to engage the damper rod).
two 5/8 nuts double-nutted togehter a ways from the other end (these to remain out beyound the fork tube so can hold with wrench. Need a 15/16th or adjustable wrench).

I had some pics but are lost to photobucket.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Thanks Dave, if the reverse SP socket doesn't fit I'll try your all-thread method. Just good to know that I shouldn't have to buy the special Suzuki Adapter "D" 09940-34561 @$20 to use for this one job.

[WingMan71]

OK, so I went out and measured the "fitting" in the top of the damper rod.

It's actually a 12-point star! At it's widest, from peak-to-peak, it measures 16mm across.

The nut I found that fit is 12.8mm across the flats and 14.67mm across the peaks. Not sure if it's a metric nut or what. It's a loose fit, but it should bite good enough to keep the damper rod from spinning.

PS) The back of a 5/8" spark plug socket does not fit in the 12-point star fitting at all. At least not on the size damper rod in this little GN125.

See picture attached...

IMG_1865.jpg

[WingMan71]

Thanks Dave, if the reverse SP socket doesn't fit I'll try your all-thread method. Just good to know that I shouldn't have to buy the special Suzuki Adapter "D" 09940-34561 @$20 to use for this one job.

Hey Rich, I just took a look at that special tool. It actually has a tapered square tip. Clearly designed to fit more than one size damper rod.

I can also see other uses for that shape tip. I just may spring for the $18.00 and buy that thing.

See attached picture.

Suzuki Damper Rod Tool 09940-34561.jpg

[Redman]

T.......................... ... ... all-thread method........

Did find this other pic. Happens to have a portion the improvised tool there in very top part of pic (somewhat out of focus).


.

[dorkburger]

I went old school. 19mm bolt welded into a 1/2” pipe nipple. Vice grips clamped on top to stop it from spinning. Sounds like your damper rod may be smaller though

[Steve]

Take your damper rod to the hardware store, find the largest nut that will fit. Get four nuts and a 2-foot piece of all-thread to match.

.

[Wingsconsin]

In my experience it is a 19MM - which is VERY close to 3/4" ==

25.4 mm = 1 inch
25.4 X .75 (3/4") = 19.05MM

Convert Metric to Imperial and back by doing some math -- 25.4MM = 1 inch

[hugo151]

I think it's a 14mm hex, some M10 nuts are this. But I seam to remember using a length off 12mm square bar to lock it.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

So, I'm in the process of taking my forks apart, and putting the back end of a spark plug wrench didn't seat on anything inside the fork tube. I got lucky, and just like my manual says, using an air impact driver, I was able to remove the bolt from the bottom of the fork. Turns out the top of the fork cylider (#20) in the fiche pic is completely round (see second pic). So my question is, when I put the fork back together, how do I stop this part from spinning while trying to torque the bolt on the bottom of the fork?

[standswithabeer]

i usually install the fork springs and cap to maintain tension on the assembly while i tighten the lower bolt. i use loctite #242 as a sealer/assembly threadlocker. i was told years ago by a Loctite rep to use the lower end of the torque range when torquing fasteners held by loctite threadlocker products.