Valve cover gasket advice

[LAB3]

As some may know, I'm living "on the road" with no permanent home base for the summer. This means that maintenance and repairs happen wherever I'm at, usually USFS campgrounds. One thing that gets to be sticking point is my valve cover gasket since I use a sealant similar to the way it came out if the factory. As expected, it takes a week to have one delivered to a dealer and the last two times I pulled the cover the valves where within spec. The question is, can I just replace the gasket "dry"? Is there any other way I can avoid buying (and waiting) for a gasket every time I check my valves?

[Wingsconsin]

I have re-used my valve cover gasket a couple of times on my GS850GL
I do not add any sealant to it -
My understanding is that the oil under the cover is not under any real significant pressure - I believe the oil pressure in general on an 850 is not great
more of a splash lube system with specific oil ports hitting important areas -
One needs to be VERY careful taking it off and putting it back on - but I have re-used my current one twice already

Just my 2 ¢

[Brendan W]

I've reused them, generally once only.
If it cracks it will most likely leak a lot more than you would think.
I put grease on them, new and when refitting.

[fbody_mike]

Like Brendan wrote. Grease, and thin coating keeps the gasket from sticking and ripping. I usually RTV the gasket to the valve cover, and then put some grease on the head side. An old mechanic taught me that for old V8 valve covers.

[LAB3]

The Suzuki dealer in Russleville, AR had one in stock! An interesting conversation with the guy at the counter then insued.

Me: Here's a question I just asked on an online forum for Suzuki GS owners. Does this gasket need cement or can it be used without it? It's a bit of a hassle tracking down a gasket every 3,000 miles just to check the shims.

Counter Guy: 3,000 miles? I've been a mechanic over 30 years and rarely have I ever had to change shims, must be your oil. I only use motorcycle spec oil (points to the display with $10 a quart oil)

Me: Well sir, the manual says it's part of routine maintenance to check and swap shims if nesessary every 3,000 Miles. When I got my bike it had only 7,500 miles on it and the exhaust shims needed to be replaced.

Counter Guy: The only time you need to worry about shims is when you're having trouble getting it to run right, especially cold starts.

Me: Well I'm close to 3,000 miles and going to check them anyway, most of the folks on the GS forum agree that it's good practice to do it. Do you have an oil filter here for that bike? (Brings out filter but no o-ring)

Counter Guy: The filter is $16, you really don't need the gasket. The oil you want is over there.

Me: I'll pass on the oil and filter, I can get those a lot cheaper at the auto parts store. If I ever find that I need my cylinder head rebuilt I'll keep you in mind, I'm betting you have quite a bit of experience.

Counter Guy: We send heads out to a machine shop in Little Rock.

[fastbysuzuki]

I use grease on mine have reused one 3 times when I removed the cover for a valve check I noted there was a small polished bit directly over the cam chain ( and it was polished no wear) so twice it is from now on.

[Steve]

I usually use WD-40 on my gasket. Usually two uses, but I have been know to lose count, it might have been three or four on a gasket.

Leonard, having met and talked with you (briefly), I got the impression that you do things carefully and methodically. Have you kept track of how much the clearances have changed every 3,000 mile interval? If you record your clearances (and your shim sizes), you will be able to safely extend your intervals when you see that they are not changing much. The need for adjustment does slow down as the miles go on the odometer. All of the parts that hammer together and seat themselves into place reach a point where they are happy and don't change any more.

Just a suggestion, but take advantage of the invitation in my signature. A nice tool that helps you keep track, so you can minimize your inspections when practical.

.

[LAB3]

I usually use WD-40 on my gasket. Usually two uses, but I have been know to lose count, it might have been three or four on a gasket.

Leonard, having met and talked with you (briefly), I got the impression that you do things carefully and methodically. Have you kept track of how much the clearances have changed every 3,000 mile interval? If you record your clearances (and your shim sizes), you will be able to safely extend your intervals when you see that they are not changing much. The need for adjustment does slow down as the miles go on the odometer. All of the parts that hammer together and seat themselves into place reach a point where they are happy and don't change any more.

Just a suggestion, but take advantage of the invitation in my signature. A nice tool that helps you keep track, so you can minimize your inspections when practical.

.

When I first bought the bike with 7500 miles both exhaust valves where too tight to measure. Per the board and the shim club guy (I'm horrible with names!) I went with a .10 decrease which put me at .11, a bit loose for sure. At that point the intakes where at .05 and I left them as is.

At about 12,500 miles the intakes where down to .03 and since the cover was already off they where swapped out .05 thinner to .08 total, exhaust was at .09

Right now with just under 19,000 I'm at .08 exhaust and intakes are still at .08 so I guess they've settled in for awhile.

True, I'm probably a bit anal about it but one thing I've found over the years is that even a decent running bike runs better after a valve adjustment. I'm going put it out of my mind for awhile, maybe wait until 25k before messing with it again.

[Burque73]

I usually use WD-40 on my gasket. ..........................
.

Even if the gasket gets replaced, this seems to help in removal of the old one, which sometimes tears a little anyway, but I haven't had to scrape since I started soaking the gasket with WD. I just slice the plastic wrapping it comes in lengthwise and remove the cardboard, saving it for later. Give the gasket in the plastic a good spray, flip and repeat and let soak for a while. Placing the gasket back on the cardboard, or card stock, I guide it over the cams and chain, right onto the surface where it lives. It slides right into place. No new technique, just writing for someone who may not have tried this.

[Gorminrider]

I cut my own. saves a ton of money and I never wait.

a bit of "sealant" on one side can help to hold them in place while you place bolts And it can help in that the cover is more likely to come off without pulling the gasket off the engine too, thereby tearing it. This, combined with Light torque seems to extend the life.. 65-72 inchlbs with a torque wrench is max with a new gasket.
I put a rub of motor oil on the top surface. I dont know if this is a good or bad idea because I haven't ever not done it.

Maybe pay close attention to where the position dowels are too because these are most likely start of a tear.

[EDGECRUSHER]

I cut my own. saves a ton of money and I never wait.

a bit of "sealant" on one side can help to hold them in place while you place bolts And it can help in that the cover is more likely to come off without pulling the gasket off the engine too, thereby tearing it. This, combined with Light torque seems to extend the life.. 65-72 inchlbs with a torque wrench is max with a new gasket.
I put a rub of motor oil on the top surface. I dont know if this is a good or bad idea because I haven't ever not done it.

Maybe pay close attention to where the position dowels are too because these are most likely start of a tear.

I always like making my own gaskets. Tell me what material your using. Cork? And what about the half moons? Does yours have the half moons on the ends of the cams?

This thread s interesting because after riding my bike for the first time in about 8 years I put it up on the lift and noticed a lot of oil down the left side of the head and a sizzling sound coming from a valve cover screw on that side. I put a wrench on it to see if I could get a little snugger but it was tight as tight can be. So that means my gasket and the screw gaskets need to be replaced. I thought years ago I had looked for a replacement and found they weren't making them anymore so it's good to hear people can still buy them. I'd be interested in trying to make one though if you can explain the materials you use. Thank you!

[Rust_to_Redemption]

I use high temp gasket material when I make my own. Got a 20 foot roll of it 10 years ago, I think it is a 16th thick, but they make other thicknesses as well. Easiest place to find it would be online nowdays. This works reasonably well for most applications, small engine or big engine.

[LAB3]

I use high temp gasket material when I make my own. Got a 20 foot roll of it 10 years ago, I think it is a 16th thick, but they make other thicknesses as well. Easiest place to find it would be online nowdays. This works reasonably well for most applications, small engine or big engine.

Not sure why I didn't think of that one, thanks for refreshing an old unused memory.

[Steve]

I cut my own. saves a ton of money and I never wait.

Just out of curiosity, ...
1. how much does your raw material cost?
2. how much is your time worth (to you)
3. how much are you paying for new gaskets?

Auto Zone is the closest store to me, here are their prices for sheet gasket material:
6.99 - 10 x 26 x 1/32 rubber and fiber
7.99 - 10 x 26 x 3/64 rubber and cellulose
16.99 - 10 x 26 x 1/8 rubber and cork
6.99 - 10 x 26 x 1/16 rubber and cork
13.99 - 12 x 18 x 1/32 compressed material

There are other sizes, larger and smaller, but my gasket is about 10 x 15 inches.

Gaskets are readily-available from Z1 Enterprises for 18.49, so I would have to be able to make one from sheet material for about $10 worth of my time.

Sorry, but I have tried it (more than once), it ain't gonna happen again.

I have three GSes here, unfortunately they all require different gaskets. I keep one of each on-hand, so there is no waiting. When I use one, I simply order a replacement, it usually arrives LONG before it's needed.

.

[Grimly]

True, I'm probably a bit anal about it but one thing I've found over the years is that even a decent running bike runs better after a valve adjustment. I'm going put it out of my mind for awhile, maybe wait until 25k before messing with it again.

A lot depends on pattern of useage.
When I was battering up and down the motorways of Britain at a steady 80mph with occasional forays into London, I found it was pointless checking every 4K miles as they hardly changed, so I gradually extended the intervals to at least 10K or so before it was worthwhile checking them, and even then the change would be small.
When I stopped that useage pattern and got into a different one of wazzing up and down the backroads, the checking interval shortened and it nearly caught me out. The valve clearances closed up far sooner than they used to do, more in line with Suzuki's original assessment. Nowadays I think (for me) a suitable interval will be around 6K miles.