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What's your go-to service manual?
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"All you can lay hands on" is the usual answer.
Clymer, Haynes, and Suzuki Factory Service Manual (FSM) are the usual suspects, and they're all absolutely awful.
They all suck in different ways, they're all shot through with egregious errors, and they're all jam-packed with nonsensical instructions, bad translations, evil incorrect specs, muddy photos, and baffling illustrations.
But quite often you can glean useful scraps of information from comparing them; where one fails to depict the dingbat end of the frammis, another might have a slightly less blurry diagram of the wubble that proves helpful, and combined with the badly translated frammis nurbling instructions from another, you might just maybe be able to figure out what to do.
So gather all the sources of information you can, then season heavily with the experience of this here forum and fine-tune with a very skeptical eye. For example, not one of the manuals has the Real Poop on how to rebuild carburetors or properly diagnose and repair your bike's electrical system, but that information is here on this forum.
One good source:
Last edited by bwringer; 01-03-2020, 08:19 PM.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.
Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.
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Get the service manual from Basscliff's site - http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Oct 2003
- 17439
- Indianapolis
Originally posted by Longitudinal View PostYou paint a grim picture, mate.
I am an experienced mechanic, so I shouldn't need a lot of procedural stuff. Mainly what I will need it torque specs.
Be wary -- there are incorrect torque specs lurking here and there in the manuals. Trust little, verify, and have a firm idea in your head and in your wrist of the "standard" specs for the various size threads in aluminum.
Yeah, the manual situation can be a little grim, but if you have wrenching experience, you'll be fine. These are essentially very simple, durable, and straightforward machines. And well-made, aside from a few parts of the electrics.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.
Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.
SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!
Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!
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Originally posted by Longitudinal View PostI am an experienced mechanic, so I shouldn't need a lot of procedural stuff. Mainly what I will need it torque specs.
For the important stuff, tighten it until it strips, then back off 1/4 turn.
For the not-so-important stuff, you can back off a full 1/2 turn.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Forgive him, he's from Ohio. Important stuff stop 1/4 turn before it strips & not-so-important stuff stop before it strips. If that fails, install thread repair kit, & do it again. Back it off after it strips??? Gheees, Glad I ain't from Ohio.1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100
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Yeah; the edition of the Haynes manual I have contains one vital misprint relating to the cam caps.
Some dozy clot inserted a 1 in front of the 7, so the torque value reads 17lbs/ft.
Explains why so many have stripped ones over the years - apart from ham-fisted clots who shouldn't be allowed use anything more demanding than a plastic knife and fork for their burgers - they probably account for more damage than the Haynes manual.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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I use factory and a Haynes. As noted, both have their strong and weak points.sigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
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Originally posted by rphillips View PostForgive him, he's from Ohio.
I'm not FROM oHIo, it's just where I happen to live now.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
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Originally posted by Steve View PostFor the important stuff, tighten it until it strips, then back off 1/4 turn.
For the not-so-important stuff, you can back off a full 1/2 turn.
I still cut twice, and measure once. In that order.1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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