New tires

[Steve]

For the rear tire, 19 or 18? If that's the rim size, it seems odd that the front would be 19 and the rear 18.

Nope, front is usually larger than the rear. Keep in mind that is the wheel diameter, not the overall tire diameter.

I see there is some conflicting information, too. In post #3 you say that the rear tire is a 4.50H17. That would be a 4.5" (wide) tire on a 17" rim and has an "H" load rating. The problem is that the parts fiche says that your '80 550E should have an 18" rear tire. Look along the central rib of the rim, near the valve stem to see what exactly is there. It should have the diameter and the width of the rim. THAT will dictate what tires you need.

It is not uncommon to install a different-size wheel/tire on a bike. I have done it on my own bike to be able to get a tire with better tread life, but I still have the stock wheel, too.

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[ZombiePotatoSalad]

Nope, front is usually larger than the rear. Keep in mind that is the wheel diameter, not the overall tire diameter.

I see there is some conflicting information, too. In post #3 you say that the rear tire is a 4.50H17. That would be a 4.5" (wide) tire on a 17" rim and has an "H" load rating. The problem is that the parts fiche says that your '80 550E should have an 18" rear tire. Look along the central rib of the rim, near the valve stem to see what exactly is there. It should have the diameter and the width of the rim. THAT will dictate what tires you need.

It is not uncommon to install a different-size wheel/tire on a bike. I have done it on my own bike to be able to get a tire with better tread life, but I still have the stock wheel, too.

.

That was my bad. I opened the manual on my phone to the wrong section.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

Nope, front is usually larger than the rear. Keep in mind that is the wheel diameter, not the overall tire diameter.

I see there is some conflicting information, too. In post #3 you say that the rear tire is a 4.50H17. That would be a 4.5" (wide) tire on a 17" rim and has an "H" load rating. The problem is that the parts fiche says that your '80 550E should have an 18" rear tire. Look along the central rib of the rim, near the valve stem to see what exactly is there. It should have the diameter and the width of the rim. THAT will dictate what tires you need.

It is not uncommon to install a different-size wheel/tire on a bike. I have done it on my own bike to be able to get a tire with better tread life, but I still have the stock wheel, too.

.

Based on what you said from the parts fiche, it looks like mine is the ET model.

[Steve]

Yep, the "E" is the 'standard' version (non-L), the "T" is for the 1980 model year.

.

[Rob S.]

Nope, front is usually larger than the rear. Keep in mind that is the wheel diameter, not the overall tire diameter.

Ideally, no more than an inch (or two). Harley tried to sell me a Sportster with a 16-inch rear and 21-inch front. No thank you. I'd like to be in the vicinity of neutral steering.

My Suzi is 17 rear, 19 front and the Sportster is 17 rear and 18 front.

I recall some sportbike manufacturers experimented with smaller front wheels in the late '80's (18 rear, 16 front?), but that didn't last.

[Griffin]

I have identically-sized rims on my GS650E. I run Shinko 712 tires on it, a 100/90-19 up front and a 110/90/18 on the rear. They work tremendously well, and you can get a set at Bike Bandit or Dennis Kirk for under $110 shipped.

By the way, Bike Bandit is high on oem parts, but not on tires and other aftermarket accessories. I just checked, the above tire set at Dennis Kirk is $107, at Bike Bandit it is $101.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

Are the rims tubed or tubeless? Mine has a tube type on the front rim, and a tubeless on the back. Both appear to be original mag wheels (the front one had 10 79 stamped on the center).

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Food for thought. When you do get around to buying tires, are you planning on mounting and balancing them yourself. I’m going to guess the answer is no. Is so, if you buy tires online you’re going to have to pay someone to mount and balance them. Maybe I’m fortunate to have a really great motorcycle mechanic in my area that deals lots of different brands of tires. I did my research and knew I wanted Shinzo 705s before I called him, but he got me what I wanted, cleaned up my rims on the inside, mounted and balances the tires I bought through him and didn’t charge me too much to do it I thought. Same guy did a wonderful job cleaning/rebuilding my carbs a few years ago. I’ve become comfortable doing most of the wrenching on my bike. But carb cleaning and tire mounting are 2 things I just would rather have someone else do. I found a guy I’ve come to trust. I hope you can too.

If there’s such a shop near you, maybe talk to someone there, and get some opinions on tire brands/types for your proposed riding conditions and prices. Opinions and quotes are free.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

Food for thought. When you do get around to buying tires, are you planning on mounting and balancing them yourself. I’m going to guess the answer is no. Is so, if you buy tires online you’re going to have to pay someone to mount and balance them. Maybe I’m fortunate to have a really great motorcycle mechanic in my area that deals lots of different brands of tires. I did my research and knew I wanted Shinzo 705s before I called him, but he got me what I wanted, cleaned up my rims on the inside, mounted and balances the tires I bought through him and didn’t charge me too much to do it I thought. Same guy did a wonderful job cleaning/rebuilding my carbs a few years ago. I’ve become comfortable doing most of the wrenching on my bike. But carb cleaning and tire mounting are 2 things I just would rather have someone else do. I found a guy I’ve come to trust. I hope you can too.

If there’s such a shop near you, maybe talk to someone there, and get some opinions on tire brands/types for your proposed riding conditions and prices. Opinions and quotes are free.

I plan on doing them myself. I've heard that putting tubeless tires on tube-type rims removes that extra redundancy in the bead, and as such isn't advised.

[LAB3]

I plan on doing them myself. I've heard that putting tubeless tires on tube-type rims removes that extra redundancy in the bead, and as such isn't advised.

I'm sure others will chime in, my understanding is that tubes where used on early cast type wheels because they where porous and didn't quite seal well. If I had cast wheels on my bike I would buy a set of tire irons and use balance beads, one heck of a lot cheaper than paying someone to unmount the old tires then mount and balance the new ones. Last year I used balance beads and rode about 17k miles with no problems.

Have a new set of tires ready to put on and am going to try out Ride-On tire sealer and balancer this time, from what I've read it will automatically plug hold up to 1/4" and provide above average balancing in my spoke type rims. That would solve the problem of any sort of leaking on a porous cast rim.

This product is about $30 total for the product, balance beads are about $12. Having a little less worry about punctures and good balance on a set of VERY expensive tires (Continental Trail Attack 2) is why I decided to switch.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

I'm sure others will chime in, my understanding is that tubes where used on early cast type wheels because they where porous and didn't quite seal well. If I had cast wheels on my bike I would buy a set of tire irons and use balance beads, one heck of a lot cheaper than paying someone to unmount the old tires then mount and balance the new ones. Last year I used balance beads and rode about 17k miles with no problems.

Have a new set of tires ready to put on and am going to try out Ride-On tire sealer and balancer this time, from what I've read it will automatically plug hold up to 1/4" and provide above average balancing in my spoke type rims. That would solve the problem of any sort of leaking on a porous cast rim.

This product is about $30 total for the product, balance beads are about $12. Having a little less worry about punctures and good balance on a set of VERY expensive tires (Continental Trail Attack 2) is why I decided to switch.

So, go with tube-types tires. What type of tube should I get? I haven't seen in the service manual yet. And all the tires I'm seeing are tubeless.
EDIT: So far, only turning up fronts for tube-type. Should I buy tubeless and grab some of that sealant as well?
EDIT 2: Reading further, tubeless tires can be fitted with tubes. But they have to be a specific type (MT, rather than WM), or else it will cause more wear. How do I find out what rim type I have?

[LAB3]

So, go with tube-types tires. What type of tube should I get? I haven't seen in the service manual yet. And all the tires I'm seeing are tubeless.
EDIT: So far, only turning up fronts for tube-type. Should I buy tubeless and grab some of that sealant as well?
EDIT 2: Reading further, tubeless tires can be fitted with tubes. But they have to be a specific type (MT, rather than WM), or else it will cause more wear. How do I find out what rim type I have?

MT is a tire size, not a type of tire. I'm not sure what a WM is. As a rule tubes can be used in tubeless tires, there's no reason to overthink it! Those who have used the Shinko 712 seem to be pretty satisfied with them and I've have good luck with the Shinko 777 which is slightly higher priced. Overall Shinko has a good reputation with a great price.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

I bought some Shinko 712s, gonna bite the bullet and try it without tubes. If it doesn't work, then all I have to do is buy some tubes... hopefully.

[Tom R]

I’ve done it both ways on tube type rims. I did have to put air in the tire every so often without tubes, whereas I’m running tubes now just because I was tired of that. I’m not sure if it’s porous castings or its just hard to get a good seal with the valve stem (it’s not machined flat on the tube type rims). Hard to say because if also run without tubes in the past and they wouldn’t leak at all.

btw - make sure you get the right valve stems.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

I’ve done it both ways on tube type rims. I did have to put air in the tire every so often without tubes, whereas I’m running tubes now just because I was tired of that. I’m not sure if it’s porous castings or its just hard to get a good seal with the valve stem (it’s not machined flat on the tube type rims). Hard to say because if also run without tubes in the past and they wouldn’t leak at all.

btw - make sure you get the right valve stems.

I don't know which tubes or stems I need. I can pick the size and I can pick the type. I have no idea what type I need.