New tires

[Tom R]

You get one or the other. Tubes will say what size rim/ tire they’re for. As for the right stems.... it’s been a while, so I forget off hand, maybe another member can chime in.
how do you plan on removing the old tires and mounting the new ones? You caaaaan spoon them on, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Especially if you’ve never done it before. You’ll likely pinch the tube. Plus you’ll need to balance them.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

You get one or the other. Tubes will say what size rim/ tire they’re for. As for the right stems.... it’s been a while, so I forget off hand, maybe another member can chime in.
how do you plan on removing the old tires and mounting the new ones? You caaaaan spoon them on, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Especially if you’ve never done it before. You’ll likely pinch the tube. Plus you’ll need to balance them.

I bought some general stems, if they don't work, I can return them. I did get some tire spoons, as a full bead breaker was rather expensive... I've done everything so far by watching videos.
I can always take them to my local mechanic and ask for their help. As for a balancer, two A-frame jacks and a metal pole.

[LAB3]

I bought some general stems, if they don't work, I can return them. I did get some tire spoons, as a full bead breaker was rather expensive... I've done everything so far by watching videos.
I can always take them to my local mechanic and ask for their help. As for a balancer, two A-frame jacks and a metal pole.

Spooning tires on isn't that hard. As to pinching tubes it helps to put some air in them, just enough to make the tube take it's shape. I'm still not convinced you even need them. Slip one side of the tire onto the rim, put the tube in, add some air then complete mounting the tire by sliding the other bead onto the rim.

There's no reason you can't run balance beads in tubes, I've put in plenty of miles on with them that way with no problems. I'm not against balancing the old fashion way, I'm just avoiding buying or building tools I don't need and spending time that doesn't put me any further ahead in the end.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

Spooning tires on isn't that hard. As to pinching tubes it helps to put some air in them, just enough to make the tube take it's shape. I'm still not convinced you even need them. Slip one side of the tire onto the rim, put the tube in, add some air then complete mounting the tire by sliding the other bead onto the rim.

There's no reason you can't run balance beads in tubes, I've put in plenty of miles on with them that way with no problems. I'm not against balancing the old fashion way, I'm just avoiding buying or building tools I don't need and spending time that doesn't put me any further ahead in the end.

That is true. But can I run tires without tubes in these rims, or should I grab some sealant too?

[Gorminrider]

spooning tube tires on is usually easier than Tubeless. EXCEPT pinching a new inner-tube is a real hazard with tube tires- it's even harder with tubeless.

I'd
A) put tubed tires on with new tubes. Nothing wrong with tube tires for general use.
B) put tubeless on with inner tubes unless you are going to race (tube tires run hotter, I've heard) and get a professional to do it for you unless you are willing to learn and damage the rim etc . At the least, buy 2 tubes.
C) investigate the multiple threads where people convert the alloy rims to tubeless by drilling a new "land" for the tubeless valve...

[LAB3]

That is true. But can I run tires without tubes in these rims, or should I grab some sealant too?

Here's the way I see it. You're trying to get a bike going with little experience and not much money to work with.

The people who own bikes with the early cast rims like yours tell us that they don't need to use tubes but have to check the tire pressure often because of leaks. It might be because the rims leak a little or it might be because the valves for cast wheels don't seal well.

The rims are good good enough to use without tubes but you need to use valve stems made for cast wheels since the valve stems are molded directly into the tubes.

There is no problem with the sidewall of a tubeless tire sealing on the cast wheel. There is also no problem with the tire bead staying seated on the rim.

You already have a set of new tires to mount on your bike, so that cost has been covered.

Two tubes will cost about $30 and will have the air valves molded into them.

Two air valves that are made for cast wheels will cost $10 or less.

You will have to buy or build a balancing stand. You will also need to find the weights that you will need to balance the tires. This will cost money to buy or build the stand and get the weights you need. You will also be doing this for the first time so there's more ways for things to go wrong.

A package of balance beads will cost about 10 to 12 dollars and will automatically do the balancing for you as you ride.

Two bottles of Ride-On balancer and sealer will cost about $30 and will balance the tires as you ride plus give you some insurance against punctures.

The lowest priced option is to not use tubes, install tire valves for cast wheels and use balance beads to balance the tires. It will cost $10 or less for the air valves and about $12 for the beads.

The next lowest option is to not use tubes, install the air valves for cast wheels and use Ride-On sealer/balancer. The valves will be $10 and the Ride-On will cost $30

If you use tubes it will cost another $30 to buy the tubes.

It will cost $12 for beads, $30 for Ride-On

You can make/buy a truing stand plus wheel weights and learn something new but will have a more difficult time getting your bike on the road.

So, the lowest priced and easiest option is to not use tubes, install air valves for cast wheels and use balance beads to balance your wheels. You will need to keep closer attention to your tire pressure. This would be the decision I would make where my money was limited.

If you want to pay less attention to air pressure and give yourself some insurance against punctures then you should use Ride-On sealer/balancer, this is the decision I would make if spending another $18 wasn't a big issue for me.

Having to buy tubes then make or buy a truing stand plus wheel weights will probably be the highest priced option with more things to go wrong and more new things to learn. This would be the least attractive choice for me.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

It's more the lack of experience. I've only changed tires on bicycles. Never had to deal with porous rims that might/might not leak air. Only had tubes, so didn't have to worry about the spokes leaking air.

[Grimly]

You can address porous rims by simply cleaning them properly and giving them a coat of paint inside.

[greg78gs750]

The porous rims thing is the word on the street, buuuuut, has anyone who has converted to tubeless ever actually had a rim that was holey enough to matter? The 3 rims I've converted were all solid....many, many others have converted but as far as I remember no one has had an issue that they reported here

[Gorminrider]

You can address porous rims by simply cleaning them properly and giving them a coat of paint inside.

need add..but be careful. If a homemade paint job scrapes off and bits get between bead and tire, it can be trouble.
I wouldn't -I have trouble believing air leaks through the aluminum rims anyways.

[Gorminrider]

converttubeRim-Batfaam-2.jpg

Here's a picture from member Batfaam's conversion. I havent done it myself, but I'd expect/hope it'd be all you need....the difference between the era tubeless and tubed are just in the spoking I think. That, and they are not Certified DOT for tubeless so...

[Baatfam]

This is what I cut that with, and the NAPA valve stems...

Link to the counter bore cutting tool, which was only $20 on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's not very high quality, but it worked fine on the aluminum.

[1978GS750E]

I changed my 1978 GS750 over to tubeless. No countersinking, just added stems made by Slime purchased at Autozone. 1 year and no issues yet!

[limeex2]

5 pages to figure out what size tire to use? He needs a 100/90x19 front and a 120/90x17 rear. If you live In Iowa, you can have tires in 2 days from Dennis Kirk. Otherwise google "cheapest 100/90x19 dunlop" or what ever brand you like and the offers will flood in for best price. You can run with no tubes even if it doesn't say so, they normally don't leak. Balance them with weights. Beads suck. Sorry but at 62 y/o I'm not mounting my own tires, in Mpls fair prices on mounting can be found on Craigslist. I'd rather be riding.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

5 pages to figure out what size tire to use? He needs a 100/90x19 front and a 120/90x17 rear. If you live In Iowa, you can have tires in 2 days from Dennis Kirk. Otherwise google "cheapest 100/90x19 dunlop" or what ever brand you like and the offers will flood in for best price. You can run with no tubes even if it doesn't say so, they normally don't leak. Balance them with weights. Beads suck. Sorry but at 62 y/o I'm not mounting my own tires, in Mpls fair prices on mounting can be found on Craigslist. I'd rather be riding.

Those sizes aren't what I was told before. And I was curious if tubeless tires worked on tubed rims, and if there were any cons to using them.