High RPM

[bobgroger]

The #1 way to train someone is to have them sign up for a riding course and you stay out of it.

For sure. And you take it too. No matter how long you have been riding you will learn something. They provide the right bikes. At the end you get a card that will qualify you for a bike license in your state. Riding without an endorsement can end up with you standing on the side of the road watching your bike loaded up on a tow truck depending on your state.

[rphillips]

Don't get confused Crabby, you don't lean the opposite way you want to turn, you actually turn the front wheel the opposite way you want to turn. So little, many never know they do it. & that only happens above (appx.) 18 mph.

[rphillips]

Another plus for riding course, Many times completion of riding course will get you a discount on bike ins.

[Crabbypants15]

I've taken the rider course before I got my license, it was required in Cali if you were under 21

[Redman]

Haha yeah I do know about the lean the opposite way you want to turn. Thanks for the test

Ah, Lets talk about that some more. Tell us again.......

[Crabbypants15]

Sorry I'm not good at explaining things well. I remember my instructor said, "Press your handlebar to the right if you want to go left." At really low speeds you can turn the front wheel the direction but at higher speeds you have to point the wheel in the opposite direction. I think it has to do with the shape of the tire that gives it that effect, can't remember right now tho.

[allojohn]

....... pushing the handle bar away from the corner causes the bike to lean into the corner.

[Redman]

Sorry I'm not good at explaining things well. I remember my instructor said, "Press your handlebar to the right if you want to go left." At really low speeds you can turn the front wheel the direction but at higher speeds you have to point the wheel in the opposite direction. I think it has to do with the shape of the tire that gives it that effect, can't remember right now tho.

Passable.
But, to me anyway, if you are teaching you should know it, and understand it, and be able to explain it, and explain it in a way that is not easily misunderstood, and be able to explain it multiple ways.

I am not being critical of you for any reason other than concern for your learner.

"Press handlebar to right......."
Press which side of the handlebar?? (I know which, but does your learner?)

It works (are lots of ways to explain this, some more accurate than others) due mostly to the geometry of the front forks and the fact that the wheel-tire then moves over to the side, out of line of the bikes forward motion and out from under the weight of the bike, and then causes bike to lean. THe countersteering cause the bike to lean and then the bike can turn.

I suppose dont really need to know the exact physics of it, but do need to be able to explain how to use it.

Good that you know it is different at low speed than it is at speed. At speed is were it is more usefull and necessary.


Okay.
Back to "high rpm".

A certain rpm in a certain gear is a certain speed.
Transmission is geared. Chain drive is chain links on sprocket. Isnt anything that can slip, except, the clutch. THe is plates pressed up against each other, that can slipp. Actaully need to slipp when first getting going.

SOme of the plates have "friction" material on them, sometimes those plates called "the fibers". Other plates are just the metal plates, sometimes called the "steels". THe friction material can wear of ussage. The friction material can become hard and lose its grip with age and heat and use. The servoice manual will have a service limit of the thickness of the fiberplates as the friction material wears.

But my expereince has been, whith these old bikes, is that the friction material can still be within the servoce limit, but be hard and not grip and then slips. (on each of my 3 old bikes).
I found was slipping at high speed gear changes. Replaced the fibre plates and clutch springs.... and, oh, man, what A difference. I pretty much had to learn to operate the clutch all over again. Musth have been slipping a lot more than I had known.

[Steve]

As Redman states, there are plates in the clutch assembly that can slip. When you are starting from a start, you want them to slip until you get moving, then you want them to grip. Although they can get hard and lose their grip, the usual first suspect would be the clutch springs. They have been under constant compression for over 40 years and are losing a bit of their "push". Please do not be fooled into thinking you need "heavy-duty" springs. Suzuki is somewhat of a master at parts-bin engineering, and only a couple different springs cover all the bikes. The GS400 and the GS1100GK use the same clutch spring, as well as many bikes in between. The spring for your bike is used on the PE250 dirt bike and the GS1100E, so should handle your 750 just fine. It is part number 09440-19007 and is a whopping $1.53 at Parts Outlaw. You will need six of them, as well as a gasket (part number 11482-45100-H17, cost is $16.97). If you use the promo code at the top of their web pages, shipping is only $4.99, so you will have a total of about $30 invested.

If you DO need the fiber friction disks, they are part number 21441-45001 and cost $16.95 each, you will need eight of them. As you can see, this is considerably more expensive (~$135) so try the springs first.

You might also be interested in a new clutch cable. A new cable from just about any manufacturer works quite nicely, but Suzuki cables will last longer, and probably don't cost much more (if anything). Part number 58200-45200, cost is $16.77. If you order at the same time you get the springs and gasket, it comes under the same flat-rate shipping charge.

.

[bwringer]

I think it's more possible that either the tach or speedo (or both) took a whack and are out of calibration.

Take it for a spin with a GPS visible somehow and see how much error there is in the speedo.

Your symptoms do not match clutch slippage.

[wymple]

If you are turning left, push on the left side of the bar. That, on 4 wheels, would make a right turn, but you are on a single line. Your bike will try to fall over and will turn left, held up by the forward momentum. Push on the left to turn left, and on the right to turn right. Leaning your body isn't even required if you're not in full race mode. If you need to turn more quickly, as in overshooting your curve (high siding), just stick the inside knee out. You'd be surprised.