Possibly butchered oil change

[Rob S.]

You need to show us a picture of your fast, balanced lady. A lot of the guys here say, "If we can't see a picture, it didn't happen."

[GS1150Pilot]

You need to show us a picture of your fast, balanced lady. A lot of the guys here say, "If we can't see a picture, it didn't happen."

Rob, have you looked at the photos he posted in this thread?

[Rob S.]

Rob, have you looked at the photos he posted in this thread?

I've gone through the thread several times. All I can find is a video posted by someone else.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Noreg’s beautiful pics of his bike in the Norwegian landscape are is this thread. Go to the most recent posts in the thread.

[Noreg]

I thought Id give a little update.

I went down to look at the bike, it seems to be not leaking. I decided to put it on the center stand, and I manged to drop it (first time). Didn't seem to damage anything, but spilled some gasoline. Nice knowing that it is suprisingly easy to pick up. Then I drove it around the city for a bit to heat it up, still no sign of oil leaking. I parked it in the garage without the oil pan, so if it leaks Ill see the stains and get to wash the floors again.

Two of the acorn nuts are the new one from the ebay kit of shiny ikea bolts. And two of them are stuck to the studs, so I am fairly certain that those to will hold. The one where the stud is sligthly to far in is a bit of a worry though.

The weather is terrible today and I wasn't really getting in the flow, so I think I will forgo todays ride. I've almost driven 400km this season!

I also got the old oil returned to the recycling place.

I guess Ill wait til tomorrow, inspect the floor and if it all seems good I will replace all the studs and acorn nuts when I need my new oil change in a few weeks (also gives me time for them to arrive). If there is oil on the floor I guess Ill have to let it sit.

How do you change the oil when you are out and about? With 3000km oil change intervals it has to happen quite often. Even a quick go to the capital and back would hit that.

It may seem I have been too quick to conclude the threads are stripped. I think the studs are wonky though.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Where did you read that oil change interval?

i just looked in the 80 1000G owners manual on BikeCliff’s website and read oil change interval is 7500miles (12,000km).

[2BRacing]

That sounds like good news! In answer to some of your questions in post #10, I can answer as follows:

"Bolts", "Allen Screws" or similar types of fasteners that have a hexagon head or socket that are turned with a spanner should not be used to tighten the oil filter cover to the engine case. The reason is because you have to remove and replace them every time you change the filter, the threads in the engine case can become damaged. That is why studs are used, because they remain in the engine case and only the acorn nut is removed/replaced.

I realise that it could take some time to get the correct parts and it is frustrating not to be able to ride, but I recommend that you get original (OEM) Suzuki parts, because the lengths of the threaded parts of the stud are important to ensure secure holding of the oil filter cover. The Suzuki OEM part number for the acorn nut is: 08313-10067. The part number for the washer is: 08322-01067. The part number for the stud is: 01421-0620A. It is a 6mm stud with total length of 32.6mm. The short threaded side is about 12mm long and the long threaded side is about 15.6mm long. The non-threaded part is about 5mm long.

The vice-grip pliers are clamped on at 90 degrees to the stud to remove it, as in that video. Rather work slowly and carefully so that you do not break the stud off in the engine casing, because then it is very difficult to remove due to little working space behind the exhausts.

Start by turning one "normal" nut (not the acorn type) about halfway onto the longer threaded end of the stud. Then turn another "normal" nut onto the longer threaded end, until it touches the first nut. Use two 10mm spanners to tighten the two nuts against each other, and then use the spanner on the outer nut to turn the stud into the engine case up to the non-threaded part of the stud (remember the loctite on that shorter end that goes into the engine case). Use the two 10mm spanners again to loosen and separate the two "normal" nuts from each other, and remove both nuts from the stud. I would not recommend using the vice-grip to turn the stud in by clamping onto the non-threaded part as is shown in the video, because of the risk of damaging the outer threads of the stud.

Yes, it is so easy to remove and replace the carbs and airbox on these 850G and 1000 G models because there is lots of space. Not so easy on some of the other models due to lack of space!

No problem, I think you are doing very well so far! Spend some time reading information in the posts here and in the BassCliff collection of technical information (BikeCliff's Website), as well as the Suzuki Factory Service Manual for your bike, and you will soon learn everything you need to know!

[Noreg]

Where did you read that oil change interval?

i just looked in the 80 1000G owners manual on BikeCliff’s website and read oil change interval is 7500miles (12,000km).

http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1000.pdf

"Change oil at initial 1000 km (600 miles) and initial 3 000 km (2 000 miles), and therafter change every 3 000 km (2 000 miles)."

Page 3-11 according to footer, but 34 in the PDF.

My Clymer manual also lists 3000 for oil changes. I think it makes sense to change the filter too, they are not expensive (unless you go crazy with the ratchet). I think its 6000 for the filter, but why not do both when you have to clean up the mess anyways?

[2BRacing]

Where did you read that oil change interval?

i just looked in the 80 1000G owners manual on BikeCliff’s website and read oil change interval is 7500miles (12,000km).

I have seen different intervals in the User's Handbook and Factory Service Manuals. Some say 3000km for engine oil and filter change; some say 5000km and one FSM says engine oil every 3000km and filter every 6000km.

So there does not seem to be much consistency across different years, even from the factory!

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Sorry, what I read was for the final gear oil change interval. Buy that same owners manual lists oil and filter change at 4000 miles(6000km). This is twice what is in the service manual. Wonder by the difference? I still think that you can go a lot more than 3000 km.

http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/.../gs/GS1000.pdf

"Change oil at initial 1000 km (600 miles) and initial 3 000 km (2 000 miles), and therafter change every 3 000 km (2 000 miles)."

Page 3-11 according to footer, but 34 in the PDF.

My Clymer manual also lists 3000 for oil changes. I think it makes sense to change the filter too, they are not expensive (unless you go crazy with the ratchet). I think its 6000 for the filter, but why not do both when you have to clean up the mess anyways?

[Noreg]

I have seen different intervals in the User's Handbook and Factory Service Manuals. Some say 3000km for engine oil and filter change; some say 5000km and one FSM says engine oil every 3000km and filter every 6000km.

So there does not seem to be much consistency across different years, even from the factory!

Thank you for the part numbers, and the explanations. I will make sure I get the OEM parts.

Sorry, what I read was for the final gear oil change interval. Buy that same owners manual lists oil and filter change at 4000 miles(6000km). This is twice what is in the service manual. Wonder by the difference? I still think that you can go a lot more than 3000 km.

If I understand it correctly, you change oil at 3000, and filter at 6000. So every other oil change you change the filter. I see some people to recommend to change filter with every oil change. When you have the bike and oil out anyways, I think it makes sense. But for a longer trip I'd probably just change the oil.

I am sure oil is better now, and I know people drive forever without any oil changes. But oil quality and change intervals seems like a heated subject and I honestly don't know.

Personally I'd rather waste oil and spend some more money on oil and know that my engine is taken care of.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Oil change at 3000 K seems excessive , but it won’t hurt. I wouldn’t stress about changing oil on your trip. Just do it when you get home. IMHO.

[abaton6]

Oil is MUCH better now than when the shop manual was printed. You can go far longer in between oil changes,..IMHO. I have a friend who changes the oil in his pickup every 2,500 mi, and he uses Mobil 1! I asked him why, and he said his grand father told him to. Today's oil in infinitely better than 49-50 years ago.

[Grimly]

Let your foot tell you.
From many years of riding one of these old beasts I can say with some certainty that the oil is ragged to pieces by the gearbox and at 2000 miles you feel the quality of shift change for the worse. Even the best oils I've had in it don't last more than 2500 miles.
Some lesser quality oils don't even make the 2000 mark, commonly losing their shear strength at 1500 to 1700 miles.

My opinion is that if the shift quality deteriorates it's telling me the oil isn't up to snuff any more and while I certainly could run it for another 1000 miles or more, I'm damned sure I wouldn't be getting a long life from the crankshaft or gearbox.

[Noreg]

Let your foot tell you.
From many years of riding one of these old beasts I can say with some certainty that the oil is ragged to pieces by the gearbox and at 2000 miles you feel the quality of shift change for the worse. Even the best oils I've had in it don't last more than 2500 miles.
Some lesser quality oils don't even make the 2000 mark, commonly losing their shear strength at 1500 to 1700 miles.

My opinion is that if the shift quality deteriorates it's telling me the oil isn't up to snuff any more and while I certainly could run it for another 1000 miles or more, I'm damned sure I wouldn't be getting a long life from the crankshaft or gearbox.

Doesn't the transmission have its own oil?