Front brake mechanism ..... impossibility to renew - adjust

[ukjules]

I have a GS550E1980 and a GSX250E 1980 and both use the
crackpot design for the front brake lever to make contact to illuminate the bulb.

It is under the leaver mechanism where the lever attaches
to the handlebar cluster.
It is attached by 2 small screws holding a 2cm long cap that holds a sprint and a contact......
If you are not careful you will lose the spring. Adjusting is like playing Ker Plunk !

I will add pictures asap as this must be re designed !!!

My question is: Has anyone made a change to this abomination that makes all this easier ?
It is a job to dread but I admit when it is done it will last until it goes wrong again in a few years.

[Nessism]

While the design isn't the best it's generally functional if properly maintained. If you want to change it up regardless, there are switches that go inline with the brake line and sense fluid pressure thus competing continuity. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10mmx1-25-1...cAAOSw1BxeGCSo

[Brendan W]

Just done mine. It's character building

[ukjules]

I so agree it can reveal your true character.
It has revealed ,a previously unknown character trait similar to
Jekyll and hyde ......in me.
A bit like the wolf man changing in the old movies ...

I'll look at that other option ....
Any other ideas to prevent mental health issues
adjusting brake lever connection .....?

[Brendan W]

You can borrow my lump hammer.
I've calmed down a bit and won't need it until the next full moon.

[cowboyup3371]

I changed to a Kawasaki MC when I put Salty Monk’s twin pot set up in my 550 which gave me a different switch type. Charmayne still has the stock MC so we just have to be careful when we adjust it which hasn’t been that often

[fbody_mike]

I've spent a good half hour crawling around the garage looking for that little spring in the past.

[Steve]

Some have installed a hydraulic switch in place of the banjo bolt. I have found that it takes quite a bit of pressure to activate the switch. Enough pressure that the brakes are already well-applied. You can't just flick the lever a bit to flash your brake lights to the person behind you.

I just rebuilt my switch. Thought I had a replacement available, but did not find it within a reasonable time.

One of the tracks had recessed into the board, so the slider that is pushed by the spring could not make contact with both tracks. Some careful desoldering of the wires, re-alignment of the tracks, then soldering the wires back to the board and my front switch is working again.

.

[ukjules]

I reckon merely by discussing this, a brilliant
solution will be found..... hopefully before
we all have to start the ghastly ordeal again !

I ask this question while both my Suzuki's
are ok, but know the horror if adjustment is
required.

The only other way is to insist all humans
and animal life are to be cleared from the garage
vicinity for the afternoon while work is in progress.

I both laugh and cry at the post where
you spent a good time looking for that damned spring !!!
It is so familiar !

[rphillips]

First time was a real PITA, tiny little spring & very small pieces. From then on, I knew what to expect & what to do & not do while removing & replacing the stupidly simple little thing. Still aggravating but not near as bad as the first time. Yes, not a good design, I've replaced several on Suzuki's but never remember a problem with a Honda or Kawa. switch.

[Cyco-Dude]

I've spent a good half hour crawling around the garage looking for that little spring in the past.

Haha, I know that feeling!!

[hillsy]

If you're in the US you can get a whole new replacement from Dennis Kirk for $8....

https://www.denniskirk.com/k-and-s/front-brake-light-switch-for-suzuki-12-0006.p213799.prd/213799.sku

You get all this (except one of those screws is wrong):

[bwringer]

If you're in the US you can get a whole new replacement from Dennis Kirk for $8....

https://www.denniskirk.com/k-and-s/front-brake-light-switch-for-suzuki-12-0006.p213799.prd/213799.sku

You get all this (except one of those screws is wrong):

Yup. It's a really stupid setup, but it does work reliably if you replace the worn/corroded/damaged components and adjust carefully.

Just replace the switch assembly, carefully adjust (note how the little housing has slots in it) and it'll be fine for a few more decades. The aftermarket versions for under $10 work OK, but the OEM version of the switch is around $25 and is better quality.

I have had to file the slots in the housing a wee bit to get the engagement point where I want it.

Most importantly, remember that this switch is in there if you ever need to remove or replace the lever. Take care when you replace the lever to ensure the little plastic nubbin gets into the right slot.

And if you do need to replace your brake lever, only use OEM Suzuki; the aftermarket levers from Motion Pro, Parts Unlimited, fleaBay, etc. are very sloppily made imitations and the switch slot can be problematic. OEM levers are reasonably priced and will save you a lot of aggravation. For example, the brake lever for my '83 GS850G is only $20.45.

For that matter, the same applies to the clutch levers and cables; the low-rent imitations wear out quickly and end up costing you more money and aggravation. If you break a clutch cable, replace the lever at the same time.

[Gorminrider]

Haha, I know that feeling!!

me too! Finally, a bright flashlight on the floor really helped delineate it, looking along the floor's surface. t'was Amazing to me how much stuff shows up!

But I've since given up entirely on the stock switch. Now, I have the hydraulic ones on 3 bikes. Some do say they don't work or fail, but I haven't had one fail yet.

[ukjules]

I can barely believe it ....
Just talking about this switch and you got it mine
has now stopped working on the gsx 250 (intermittently).

So now I have to in the freezing weather do
the unthinkable .....

I am so gonna research where and how to do these
hydraulic ones. ebay it is .....