Where did my oil go?

[roeme]

(...)
Aren't you supposed to do a ton of things for winter storage? I think it will be winter stored for 4 or 5 months before I can ride it again (in total, it has been stored for about 2 months now).

As usual; it depends. But there's not much to do IMHO:

1. What's the fuel quality you get around your place? If it ain't the best, it might be worthwhile to add some fuel stabilizer to your tank. But see 4.)
2. Drain carburetors completely if you're not running the bike for months. Weeks _may_ be ok if you have good fuel.
3. Charge the battery every 1-2 months.
4. If the bike is stored in a humid environment:
- either fill the tank completely and add stabilizer,
- or drain the tank completely and spray some WD-40 into it
- Spray a light coating of WD-40 on rust-prone parts, or to your liking (it [very] slowly flashes off, come summer it's either mostly gone or you can easily remove it).

(...)
I tried charging the battery with a car charger, it said it was full after and hour or so but I think its wrong. I am going to get a smaller motorcycle charger and try again.

No, that makes sense. If you put the battery on the charger as described above it will charge quite fast. It doesn't loose a lot of charge on these old electronic-free bikes.

[Nessism]

The Suzuki owners manual (available on Basscliff's site) details out Suzuki's recommended storage procedure. Can't go wrong following it. One slight deviation that seems popular is to fill the fuel tank all the way to the top and add a healthy dose of fuel stabilizer. Then ride the bike to get the stabilized fuel into the carbs and park the bike. Last step is drain the carbs. The stabilized fuel will coat the carbs and eliminate any varnishing that happens when fuel dries out. There are various other steps related to storage, this post is just focusing on the fuel and carbs aspect.

[Redman]

I have an irrational fear of using the PRI, I used it once, and forgot it. Woke up to a puddle of gasoline.. . . . .
. . . .

Do need to use PRIme on occasion, especially if bike is not starting after sitting for a while.
And do need to be concerned about not leaving it in PRIme position for too long.

What I have forced myself to do, when do need to use PRIme, is to stand there and hold the lever and keep fingers on the lever, only needs to be on PRIme for a portion of a minute, don't step away ..... stand there and don't take fingers off of it until put back to ON (or REServe) position, then can step away. I have forced myself to make that a habit.

Similarly, I have forced myself to make a habit of looking at car keys in my hand, before closing car trunk or locking car doors.

I know, it seems stupid and ridiculous.

But after repeat occasions of locking keys in car (in my early years of driving) and second occasion of having gas puddle in garage (in early years of having a bike), I said "Huh, a reasonably intelligent person should not have this same problem repeatedly. So it seems that I need a stupid solution to the problem."
And, so I forced myself into stupid habits, that have each worked on each problem, have not locked keys in car since I was 21, have not left petcock in PRIme in last 35 years.

My stupid fix/procedure/habit for not leaving the sidestand down has worked for 30+ years, .... except for once last year.

[Guest]

Its been sitting since November. My grandparents live about 40 kilometers or 40 minutes away, so the drive isn't an issue. But when there is coronavirus in town I avoid going there, hopefully the vaccine will solve that. Still I believe the season will start before then.

Starting it once a week seems somewhat excessive. What would be the point? I see starting it once a month or so to keep the oil flowing. But I think I can make sure the engine is oiled before I start it by taking it for a walk with the spark plugs out while in fifth.

It is not at all humid here, the cold takes care of that. And its inside a garage.

The gas tank is already too rusty for my liking, so after I have started the bike up for a bit, I will take the gas tank home and POR-15 it. If I understand correctly its advisable to replace the petcock even when its new (a couple years old).

I think the fuel in the tank is 98 octane that is ethanol free. Do note that the octane numbers is different in Europe. Standard gasoline is 95 octane here. I think I'll make a habit of only filling 98 from October and out to be sure it has ethanol free gas when the season ends. It is really hard to predict when the last ride will be, if it snows early the season is over early.

Holding the PRI-lever actually seems like a brilliant advice for someone absent minded as me, that would prevent the issue. It was so strange. I rode the bike to the university (maybe 30-40 minute ride). Left it for 7 hours on a flat surface with no leak. Park it "at home" at an incline, and puddle of gas when I woke up.

What is your trick for the side stand? When I have forgotten mine it has just plopped right up.

[tom203]

Before you take tank off and home for por-15 stuff, put some fresh gas AND stabilizer in it and take a half hour ride...this ensures the stabilized fuel reaches the carbs internals. My bike sits idle for 5 to 6 months like this and has never failed to wake up happy come spring.

[GS1150Pilot]

Noreg, you're going to paint the inside of your tank? I assume you have read this:

https://qr.por15.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/MetalReadyInfo.pdf

[Guest]

Before you take tank off and home for por-15 stuff, put some fresh gas AND stabilizer in it and take a half hour ride...this ensures the stabilized fuel reaches the carbs internals. My bike sits idle for 5 to 6 months like this and has never failed to wake up happy come spring.

I would take it for a ride if I could. But right now we have ice, so I dont think that would be advisable. I cant find winter tyres in the right size for the bike either. Besides the salt would make it rust. I need to touch up the paint. If I had the skill to strip the frame I would get it repainted. Considering going to Serbia to have it done.

When the tank is cured the plan is to clean and change the o-rings in the carbs. So having the fuel gum up a bit wouldnt be the end of the world. Ive delayed changing the orings because the float bowls gets rust in them. So cleaning it just for it to gunk up again made little sense.

My bike usually starts easy. It does not like being parked on steep inclines (ned PRI to start after) and I have to keep the choke on way longer than 90 seconds to make it run right if its been bellow freezing in the night. I am curious to see how it will be now that I can park it level and in neutral.

But once its been warmed up it works great, even when its bellow freezing. Now that I live outside the city its also easier to ride without having to stop. Usually a few minutes of riding is enough to make it happy.

[Guest]

Noreg, you're going to paint the inside of your tank? I assume you have read this:

https://qr.por15.com/QR-assets/downl...lReadyInfo.pdf

Yes. I concluded painting the inside is the best course of action. One of the carbs started spitting out fuel because rust got into it (after I ran out of gas and had to use RES).

I suspect water in the tank is less likely with my riding pattern than with the PO. I wonder if regularly starting it up during the winter contributes to the condensation. And if my understanding is correct water will dissappear when you ride as it wont sit still on the bottom. Before it was used for a trip or two a year, and short trips. Not like me riding cross country.

There is an excellent thread about POR-15 somewhere here. I was thinking of documenting the procedure in a thread where I answer all the questions I had. I am not very mechanically inclined, but I usually figure things out.

My biggest mistake so far is buying the kit for motorcycles. It has like half or less the amount of chemicals and cost the same as the car version. As far as I can tell only the amounts are different.

[Maddevill]

Put some Stabil in the tank. If you can get it started, run it enough to get it in the carbs. Otherwise, drain the carbs. Fill the tank to the top. This will prevent rust in the tank. Put the bike up on stands. Hook up a battery maintainer. Spray the handle bar controls and things that may corrode with WD40 or something similar. Lube the chain. Cover the bike. You'll be glad you did these things.

Mad