Thanks for getting the info right from the source, chuck!
And now we even have non-resistor replacement part numbers, which I can use until I have to replace my plug caps (unfortunately still have them, fortunately still good).
As for resistance, I think a healthy GS ignition system (or modern coils) can take both resistor plugs and plug caps (when I got my first bike, I've ran for about a year with caps that were nearly dead and went way up in resistance).
But you're doing both yourself and your coils no favors, methinks. And same as foregoing resistors completely; I'm not sure if and how much spark timing changes, but spark strength surely is impacted.
Replacements must match at the least those specs:
- 14mm thread,
- 1.25 pitch
- 19mm reach
- 0.8mm gap
Heat range I'd think depends on one's engine/location/driving style; terminal type (nut/screw) depends on one's spark plug caps anyway. As for the hex size, I'm not sure if bigger than 21 mm (maybe 22...) would still fit our engines.
So, to recap; so far we've got:
B8ES Replacements:
Can confirm the hack with removing the resistor from resistor plugs, but it's quite a hassle to get a nicely fitting metal part in there. And in any case, I don't think with that hack you'll get a good contact...So you'll get the odd spark in the plug itself, which leads to charring, more resistance, more sparks and .... eh, maybe if you're in a pinch, or need a solution until nice fresh non-resistor caps arrive. Maybe this is also why resistor caps go bad 🤔
And now we even have non-resistor replacement part numbers, which I can use until I have to replace my plug caps (unfortunately still have them, fortunately still good).
As for resistance, I think a healthy GS ignition system (or modern coils) can take both resistor plugs and plug caps (when I got my first bike, I've ran for about a year with caps that were nearly dead and went way up in resistance).
But you're doing both yourself and your coils no favors, methinks. And same as foregoing resistors completely; I'm not sure if and how much spark timing changes, but spark strength surely is impacted.
Replacements must match at the least those specs:
- 14mm thread,
- 1.25 pitch
- 19mm reach
- 0.8mm gap
Heat range I'd think depends on one's engine/location/driving style; terminal type (nut/screw) depends on one's spark plug caps anyway. As for the hex size, I'm not sure if bigger than 21 mm (maybe 22...) would still fit our engines.
So, to recap; so far we've got:
B8ES Replacements:
| (Usual) Order # | Remarks |
| Denso 4030 | W24ES-U |
| NGK 4554 | R5671A-8, "Racing Plug", oh my... |
Can confirm the hack with removing the resistor from resistor plugs, but it's quite a hassle to get a nicely fitting metal part in there. And in any case, I don't think with that hack you'll get a good contact...So you'll get the odd spark in the plug itself, which leads to charring, more resistance, more sparks and .... eh, maybe if you're in a pinch, or need a solution until nice fresh non-resistor caps arrive. Maybe this is also why resistor caps go bad 🤔
By that I mean,they weren't Nippon Denso.. The cheap copies for 'Denso' plugs aren't Made in Japan and I'm not sure(China?)just where they're made,but they don't last.They also have a cheap plating which tends to flake-off when run hard and burn onto the center porcelain and cause the plugs to foul.I ordered some and used a dull safety razor and I was able to scratch the plating stuff right off the inside(inside the firing zone)steel of the plug:I wouldn't doubt that would foul the plug later.I know the Automotive places will sell you genuine NGK plugs if you ask them.I would bring a spare new NGK in the box with you when you go to pick them up,have a look at the color of the plating,the box it comes in,the shape of the porcelain,electrodes,etc. and see if they match a genuine one.
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