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Just got a new (old) 1980 1000 GL...a few tech questions.

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    Just got a new (old) 1980 1000 GL...a few tech questions.

    Just bought a 1980 1000GL with 9k miles in excellent condition and I am excited to get riding! The bike has been sitting for most of the past 10 years and infrequently started. We jump started it from a pickup battery boost and after a few trys, it fired up.
    Observations and questions: there is a gas leak coming from what looks like the middle one or two carbs and only leaks when ignition is in the on position...any ideas as to what to check? Should I have the carbs rebuilt? Estimated cost?
    Another item is the front brake is dragging and may not be releasing pad. Should I have brake assembly rebuilt? Estimated cost? Probably good time to have brake fluid flushed?
    Petcock: I don't see the lever/handle...it looks recessed like a screwdriver would fit into a slot?
    Very happy I found this site and appreciate all help!
    Jim M
    Sacramento, CA.
    Will post a pic when she gets home tomorrow!

    #2
    The petcock is normally in the ON position It is turned on & off by engine vacuum acting on the petcock diaphram. The carbs probably do need cleaning, I don't think you would need to rebuild them Just replace all of the O rings. Get them from http://www.cycleorings.com. The brakes I would start by cleaning the calaper (brake cleaner spray) work the piston in & out a few time and Flush the brake system
    If it has been sitting 10 years ?
    First things you Need to do
    1 New tires, Clean & lube the rear drive splines when the wheel is off
    2 Clean & repair all of the reg/rect connections & add a ground wire from the battery (-) to the mounting bolt of the reg
    3 Change all of the fluids Engine oil & filter, gear box oil 90 wt, rear dif oil also 90 wt
    You will have one of the best bikes made 8)

    Comment


      #3
      Lynn, info much appreciated. Are you a fan of synthetic oil? Here in Sacramento area, we get temps into the 100-105 in the summer and also wonder if a heavier vescosity oil is needed?
      Also wondering if I should have oil in shocks changed?
      Any recommendations with tire brands for this bike? Not looking for any high speed riding, just something sticky.
      Thanks again.
      I posted this bike as a Gl, but owner manual says it's a GS1000GL if there is a difference.
      Thanks again.

      Comment


        #4
        Synth oil is debated here, but some member's swear by it. The biggest thing is to keep the changes regular and frequent (around 2000 miles). For tires go to ronayers.com. They have reasonable prices. Tire brands are also debated here.

        Brad tt

        Comment


          #5
          Lynn is right on with his suggestions. Little things may "pop" up, but its to be expected with a bike that has been sitting for some time. After Lynn's list, just wait and see. You have a great ol horse there. :-) Enjoy.

          Earl
          Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

          I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

          Comment


            #6
            The front fork oil probably should be changed 8.3 oz @ leg for the GL
            Rear shocks are not servicable
            If the motor has been rebuilt I would use synthetic oil
            with 25 year old seals I would stick to dino oil I use castrol GTX 10/40 during the winter, sometimes 20/50 in the summer. I change it every 1500-2000 miles. With 20/50 oil the clutch will drag when it is cold
            (under 65 deg) Just needs a few minutes more warm up. If you are riding in heavy traffic during the summer you can add an oil cooler
            When you remove the carbs for cleaning- Remove the intake boots and replace the O ring seal between the boot & head & examine the boots carefully
            Along with the other post, this should keep you busy for a few days

            Comment


              #7
              Hello Jim,
              You should remove, disassemble & clean the carbs. This is not realy that hard. Do not take the carbs off the rail. You will probably need to replace the float valve assembly (needle & seat), to fix your fuel leak. Make certain you remove all jets and clean them with solvent. Clean all carb passages and blow thru them with compressed air. This is not very hard to do. The float level is the Only Internal Adjustment.
              Flush the complete brake system, change the fork oil, and the middle & final drive gearbox fuilds. Use synthetic in the Gearboxs. I would use regular motorcycle oil in the engine, not synthetic.
              Adjust the valves & run the aux ground strap from the regulator to the - battery post. Fit it with a nice set of Dunlop 491 Elite II tires, and ride it for many years to come.

              Comment


                #8
                Nobody answered the $$$ issue.

                It sounds like your petcock handle has broken off. Or does the G model have no handle? Anyway, Someone might have another handle for you. A rebuild kit for the petcock can run around $20.

                The carbs.... if it were me, I would rebuild them completely meaning new float needles and seats, o-rings, float bowl gaskets and a cleaning. But I'm real anal and usually casue more trouble than I correct. Rebuild kits can be had for about $18/ per carb.

                The fork oil should definitely be replaced. Cheap. The brake pads can be bought for less than $18 a caliper. I just rebuilt my front calipers with new seals and the master cyl piston, all the seals might have cost me $25 or so for the front system. Plan to spend a few hours on this job.

                I wouldn't use synthetic- the last person to use it most likely didn't. I'm not usually biased towards either syn or dyno oil, just what the bike is historically used to.

                For tires, most everyone here knows I am a Dunlop man. Had good luck with the K491's and I have a 505 rear and F11 front waiting to go on my 83 when the Metzlers I have on now wear down. Get good tires, money is no object here.

                Welcome to the forum!
                Currently bikeless
                '81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
                '06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."

                I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.

                "Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just wanted to say, I'm the new owner of the GS1000GL mentioned above and it's a great bike so far, it's in amazingly stock condition with near perfect paint, even all the markings on the handlebar controls show no fading.

                  Already did Lynn's suggestions 1&3, plan to tackle 2 this weekend. While I expect a carb clean or rebuild is in my future, the bike is running so smoothly now, don't feel a need to dive in just yet. I'll spend the summer checking/working though the other routine stuff as I get the time.

                  Reason I got it? Already have a 1980 850G which runs okay, but looks pretty ragged. Had actually started shopping for a much newer bike, but hated the looks and seating on almost all new bikes and the cost of course. I finally thought well what do I want, well what I wanted was a new GS....

                  Didn't really want an L, but now I like it, the lower seat and smaller tank causes it to feel and look smaller then the 850. Makes for a really fun around town ride.

                  This site and it's info is great!
                  thanks!
                  mike

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