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Removing stator
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my98xplorer
Removing stator
i noticed a couple people talking about removing the stator rotor. Is that required to remove the stator itself?Tags: None
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joeadams
The Rotor is a permanent magnet mounted on the end of the crank. The stator is mounted inside the stator cover by 3 screws. You just have to take that cover off and remove the 3 screws. They can be a pain in the butt to get out of there though and lot of folks suggest an impact driver. I was able to get mine out without a whole lot of trouble.
So no you don't have to take the rotor off.
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my98xplorer
Originally posted by joeadamsThe Rotor is a permanent magnet mounted on the end of the crank. The stator is mounted inside the stator cover by 3 screws. You just have to take that cover off and remove the 3 screws. They can be a pain in the butt to get out of there though and lot of folks suggest an impact driver. I was able to get mine out without a whole lot of trouble.
So no you don't have to take the rotor off.
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Evil Hobbit
Re: Removing stator
Originally posted by my98xploreri noticed a couple people talking about removing the stator rotor. Is that required to remove the stator itself?
1. Clymer manual
2. If you have the phillips screws on the cover, an impact driver
3. If you have capscrews, Allen wrenches
4. A new gasket
5. Form a Gasket
6. Oil ( found that I didn?t need to drain the oil I did loose about a cup of oil when I took the cover off)
7. Rags
8. Lock-Tite
9. Torque wrench
The procedure is pretty straight forward.
Note: mark all screws as they come out of the cover, they are not all the same size!
1. Take off the cover, the stator is mounted to the cover.
2. Follow the wiring to disconnect it (this is that hardest part)
3. Unscrew the stator from the cover (three screws on the stator and one on the two on wiring clamps
4. Reassemble in reverse order.
5. I use Lock-tite on all screws
6. Use form a gasket on both sides of new gaskets
7. Put the screws back in the holes they came out of.
8. Torque the screws to specs (Clymer Manual)
9. Let sit over night for the Form a Gasket to set.
10. Top off oil
11. Ride it!
If I missed something I?m sure on of the folks here will add it.
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my98xplorer
Re: Removing stator
Note: mark all screws as they come out of the cover, they are not all the same size!
1. So how do you fix that once youve already screwed that one up? I thought the reason i was leaking oil was cause i broke the gasket.
2. Is it just regualr engine oil in there or is it some kind of gear oil?
3. Is the oil in the stator cover the same oil thats used for the clutch?
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joeadams
As far as getting the right screws in the right holes, start with the longest one and put it in the hole it will tighten all the way down in and work your way from there. That's what I'd do.
The oil inside the stator cover is the oil you have in the engine. It is also the same oil that the clutch is in. So just add whatever amount of oil you need to the engine when you are done.
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scotty
Originally posted by joeadamsAs far as getting the right screws in the right holes, start with the longest one and put it in the hole it will tighten all the way down in and work your way from there. That's what I'd do.
The oil inside the stator cover is the oil you have in the engine. It is also the same oil that the clutch is in. So just add whatever amount of oil you need to the engine when you are done.
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my98xplorer
Originally posted by duaneageModel paint on the long screw head and a dap where it comes from.
Torque the screws in a crossover pattern so the cover seats evenly, aluminum is not forgiving.
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joeadams
I think there are 3 different sizes. You should be able to tell by looking at them if they are the same or not. The only thing different about them is the length. The long ones will only go into the holes for the long ones. Once those holes are claimed the second longest ones will only go into the right holes and so on. If you put a long screw into a short hole it won't even come close to tightening all the way down. Do a dry fit with just the cover to get your hole/screw locations right and then choose one of the above strategies to keep them straight.
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Originally posted by my98xplorerOriginally posted by duaneageModel paint on the long screw head and a dap where it comes from.
Torque the screws in a crossover pattern so the cover seats evenly, aluminum is not forgiving.
Did this for the first time 20 years agao when I did a clutch on my CB550. I spent more time figuring out what screw went where than I did swapping the clutch pack out.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely
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