1985 GS550ES - Questions re: start,carb, intake boots, hoses

[Anonymous]

My 85 GS550 last ran in November and it ran well.

I have since removed the carbs, disassembled them per the Clymer guide's instructions, and re-installed them on the bike. I can't get the bike to start.

A few facts:
a - there is new gasoline in both of the float bowls
b - all four spark plugs generate a spark
c - each piston gets compression

1st question
========
Do the intake boots have to be on in order for the engine to start? If so, why? I've covered up each intake with my hand and can feel the suction that is generated by the cylinder.

I've sprayed starter fluid into the intake of each carb -- this results in the engine starting for about a second or two until it uses up the fluid. After that I'm just running down the battery.

2nd question
========
If the answer to #1 is yes, what's the secret to putting the boots in between the carb and the airbox? I've tried to remove the airbox first and have had no luck. There's obviously not enough space between the two to just shove the things in there (I've tried).

3rd question
========
I am puzzled as to the myriad of hoses coming off the carb. I'm able to determine which one provides gasoline -- that's easy. My Clymer guide doesn't help at this point. The diagram it provides of the carb doesn't describe each port or to where it is to connect.

There's the series of five hoses that all come together at a connector. Four of these hoses attach to the carb and thanks to their respective lengths I'm able to figure out where on the carb they attach. This leaves one hose coming out of the connector. Where does this attach?

There are two other hoses coming from the carb and no obvious connection points. Does anybody have a diagram they can post or reference?

-- Mundefined

[duaneage]

Re: 1985 GS550ES - Questions re: start,carb, intake boots, h

My 85 GS550 last ran in November and it ran well.


A few facts:
a - there is new gasoline in both of the float bowls
b - all four spark plugs generate a spark
c - each piston gets compression

1st question
========
Do the intake boots have to be on in order for the engine to start? If so, why? I've covered up each intake with my hand and can feel the suction that is generated by the cylinder.

I've sprayed starter fluid into the intake of each carb -- this results in the engine starting for about a second or two until it uses up the fluid. After that I'm just running down the battery.

2nd question
========
If the answer to #1 is yes, what's the secret to putting the boots in between the carb and the airbox? I've tried to remove the airbox first and have had no luck. There's obviously not enough space between the two to just shove the things in there (I've tried).

3rd question
========
I am puzzled as to the myriad of hoses coming off the carb. I'm able to determine which one provides gasoline -- that's easy. My Clymer guide doesn't help at this point. The diagram it provides of the carb doesn't describe each port or to where it is to connect.

There's the series of five hoses that all come together at a connector. Four of these hoses attach to the carb and thanks to their respective lengths I'm able to figure out where on the carb they attach. This leaves one hose coming out of the connector. Where does this attach?

There are two other hoses coming from the carb and no obvious connection points. Does anybody have a diagram they can post or reference?

-- Mundefined

One of the hoses may go to the fuel petcock to turn on the fuel flow. Not connecting this will prevent fuel from reaching the engine and will also be a vacuum leak since it is not connected, make sure it is.

Do you have the spark plug wires on correctly, just check and be sure.

Lay off the starter pray, that stuff is not good for the engine. did you adjust the carbs correctly per the carb rebuilding page foound on this site? You need to set the throttle up correctly, maybe it si closed all the way as a result or your rebuild. The idle mixture screws should be initially set about 1-1/2 to 2 turns (typically). Did you record how much they were screwed in when you removed them?

[Anonymous]

'85 GS550 Carb issues

I have a '85 GS550L, I think the carb & airbox setup is the same.

I have managed to get the boots on with the airbox in place. It is a nightmare, and takes a screwdriver to work the boot around. Much easier to take out the battery box, detach the airbox, slide it back. Then, you can put the boots in, and smash it all together. Be careful about the wires down the side of the airbox, if they're shoved into the nooks & crannies tight, you may pull a connection loose.

The petcock has a vacuum line that runs to the carb. That way, when in the 'on' (down) position, it only operates when the engine is running. If it isn't hooked up, you won't keep fuel supplied. Switch the petcock to prime, and it'll flow all the time.

Rob

[Anonymous]

I just removed and reinstalled my carbs last night so I'll share my thoughts. You have to pull the battery and battery tray. This allows the airbox to be unbolted and slid back a few inches giving the necessary clearance. To pull the battery tray, you have to unbolt the igniter assembly. Be careful not to lose the little clips behind the igniter. On the other side the fuse box snaps into the battery tray with three snap clips. There are 2 bolts under the tray that bolt it to the frame from each side. You only need to loosen these as the tray mount is slotted. This sounds laborious but really only takes about 10 minutes. The airbox has 2 bolts from the top.

My question is: Do the mixture screws lean or richen the mixture when screwed conterclockwise, and what is a good base setting?

[KennyJ]

OK, this is easy for a guy who removed his on average every 1.5 years since new...

To remove:

Remove Side Panels
Remove Tank
Remove battery
Remove ignition from battery box side, let dangle
Remove fuse box from other battery box side, let dangle
Remove battery box
Take out two 10 mm bolts the hold the airbox up and forward (they are near the tank mount)
Loosen all 4 clamps on the airbox/carb boots.
Pull airbox back and you can slip the boots out
Take out the enricher slides (plastic nuts with cables into them), let dangle
Loosen the clamps on the front of the carbs
Pull the carbs back
Twist the carb setup downward so it clears the front boots
Slide the carbs out the left side (as your sitting on it) of the bike
About 1/2 way out, you can get to the throttle cable, disconnect it (loosen the adjustment until there is a ton of slack, pull the housing up to clear the clamp, then disconnect the cable end)
Remove the carbs the rest of the way. The vent hoses will drag out easily

To install, reverse!!!! (love that in the manuals!).

The only trick to assembly is to pull on full "choke" before installing the enricher slides, and getting the throttle cable hooked up before you have the carbs totally in place.

Kenny

[Poot]

for the intake boots, make sure you have the ones marked (L) and (r) on the left and right sides respectively , although im sure theyre on right.

there should be 2 fuel lines feeding into the carbs if im not mistaken, and you should be careful on which hosese you hook up where, as it could mess things up too.

[Anonymous]

Marvelous! Wonderful!

You guys are fantastic! Thanks very much!