Just wondering....wiring mods

[earlfor]

I have my 1100 almost finished. I'm finding I have what appears to be random shorting in the wiring harness. Sitting on the centerstand, one minute everything is working fine, then for no reason I can find, the turn signals quit working on one side, then theyre ok, then the gear indicater quits working on some gears, then everything is fine, then the other side signals quit for a little while and the gear indicator is back to working fine.. Its driving me nuts. :-)

I'm wondering since all that is needed to run turn signals is a two pole switch, a flasher, a switched power source and the turn signals, I see no reason to include the 24 sub branches sprouting from the turn signal control unit.

I've rewired as I've progressed on the bike and the ignition, start/kill, charging system and headlight each have their own dedicated circuit.

I no longer use an ignitor box either......dont need one. :-)

Does anyone know of some reason why a turn signal control unit must be included in the wiring? I'm thinking to also re configure the check panel control unit to simplify the harness too. Any thoughts out there? :-)

Earl

[Anonymous]

Earl, I did mine a lil while ago.

Basically like you said.

Start/Run ckt, Light ckt & Charge ckt, no blinker ckt yet, but wired the loop to activate them..

, I see no reason to include the 24 sub branches sprouting from the turn signal control unit.

Neither did I, why I dissconnnected it and wired around it.

I DID NOT rewire anything to the check panel.
BUT was thinking I may want to reconnect it later, and identified them all and capped them.

I took the Wiring schemtatic in the manual and took each actually NEEDED ckt to run the bike and cut it Completely down to those 3.

I need to pull it off and redo it the right way again but soldered and heatshrink & connectors, instead of crimpons (temporary as I tested my wiring changes).

Time is not allowing me to do so right now.

Peace,
Ron

[earlfor]

Thanks, I like simple. :-)

Earl

[quote="Busafied"]Earl, I did mine a lil while ago.

Basically like you said.

Start/Run ckt, Light ckt & Charge ckt, no blinker ckt yet, but wired the loop to activate them..

[luc8421]

Hey earl, I've been simplifying my wiring harness bit by bit for a while now, and eliminating the ignitor box sounds like an interesting concept, would you mind filling us in on how you did this?

[scotty]

Isn't the turn signal gismo just for cancelling the signal after about 15 flashes.?????

[earlfor]

Its so simple, I'm almost embarrassed to answer. :-) :-) Install a Dyna S ignition system. heh heh

Earl

Hey earl, I've been simplifying my wiring harness bit by bit for a while now, and eliminating the ignitor box sounds like an interesting concept, would you mind filling us in on how you did this?

[earlfor]

That may be correct, I dont know. One of its functions is controlling the turn signals, but it also has all the warning lights and safety lockouts, etc running through it. I'm still wondering why Suzuki felt they needed a control unit for things that will work normally if wired directly. This weekend, I'm going to remove all of the factory wiring harness. I've already spent too much time chasing down and repairing faults in the old wiring and its still not dependable. I think it will limit the harness to four circuits. 1. headlight, 2, turn signals/tailight/brake light 3. ignition, 4 instrument lights and guages.
I will also run one 10 guage ground wire to a bus ground plate mounted under the tank so I dont have a bunch of ground wires everywhere either.

Earl

Isn't the turn signal gismo just for cancelling the signal after about 15 flashes.?????

[Mr. Jiggles]

Try disconnecting the turn signal control unit. The signals should work properly (they did on mine) but they won't self-cancel.

Jeff

[focus frenzy]

AH! a topic right up my alley!
connections and contacts, the two main trouble makers.
I currently have my turn signal control box bypassed with a simple two terminal electronic flasher module as the stock flasher would not work with the LED turn signal lights I have installed.
for maximum power and the least voltage drop on lighting and ignition systems by using relays.
I have the ignition switch by pass relay mod, it takes power dirrectly from the battery and powers the fuse box directly instead of power having to go to the ignition switch then back the the fuse box, the ignition switch now controls the relay.
it also serves as a additional security item, remove relay and the electrical system is disabled.
I have done the dimmer switch bypass also, power comes from the (modern blade replacement) fuse box and goes directly to a relay mounted just behind the steering head where the relay switches between low and high beam, the dimmer switch controls the relay.
instead of the power for the headlight having to go from the battery through the main fuse to the ignition switch, then back to the fuse box then back up to the dimmer switch before going to the headlight.
it now goes from battery to ignition switch bypass relay to headlight relay direct to the headlight.
I now have a very very bright headlight. (Sylvania silver star)(European spec Bosch headlight)
I also have a mini relay wired to the ground for the headlight so it cuts the headlight when the starter button is pushed freeing all power for starting the engine. as well as the normal horn relay mod.

[Hoomgar]

Its so simple, I'm almost embarrassed to answer. :-) :-) Install a Dyna S ignition system. heh heh

Earl

Hey earl, I've been simplifying my wiring harness bit by bit for a while now, and eliminating the ignitor box sounds like an interesting concept, would you mind filling us in on how you did this?

Mine went by by a long time ago by doing this

[EZ OUT]

Headlight wiring redeaux

AH! a topic right up my alley!
connections and contacts, the two main trouble makers.
I currently have my turn signal control box bypassed with a simple two terminal electronic flasher module as the stock flasher would not work with the LED turn signal lights I have installed.
for maximum power and the least voltage drop on lighting and ignition systems by using relays.
I have the ignition switch by pass relay mod, it takes power dirrectly from the battery and powers the fuse box directly instead of power having to go to the ignition switch then back the the fuse box, the ignition switch now controls the relay.
it also serves as a additional security item, remove relay and the electrical system is disabled.
I have done the dimmer switch bypass also, power comes from the (modern blade replacement) fuse box and goes directly to a relay mounted just behind the steering head where the relay switches between low and high beam, the dimmer switch controls the relay.
instead of the power for the headlight having to go from the battery through the main fuse to the ignition switch, then back to the fuse box then back up to the dimmer switch before going to the headlight.
it now goes from battery to ignition switch bypass relay to headlight relay direct to the headlight.
I now have a very very bright headlight. (Sylvania silver star)(European spec Bosch headlight)
I also have a mini relay wired to the ground for the headlight so it cuts the headlight when the starter button is pushed freeing all power for starting the engine. as well as the normal horn relay mod.

Focus - This sounds like a geat idea for a how to in the garage section on this site! What bike did you do this mod on?

[focus frenzy]

80 GS1000G shafties rule!!

I will have to draw up some diagrams.

[wolfie]

Try disconnecting the turn signal control unit. The signals should work properly (they did on mine) but they won't self-cancel.

Jeff

My turn signals didn't work. I unplugged the turn signal control unit. My turn signals now work. I've been riding around for months signaling with my hands because the turn signal control unit that apparently has no real function doesn't work. Are we certain that it is unnecessary? I'm not going to anger the Suzuki Gremlins by disconnecting this am I?

[snowbeard]

oh boy! I have been thinking I'm going to have to rewire my 850 in the near future, if anyone could do a basic how to I would be ever so grateful?

I had the darn thing running for one night, next day? nothing!

[BadBillyB]

Re: Just wondering....wiring mods

I have my 1100 almost finished. I'm finding I have what appears to be random shorting in the wiring harness. Sitting on the centerstand, one minute everything is working fine, then for no reason I can find, the turn signals quit working on one side, then theyre ok, then the gear indicater quits working on some gears, then everything is fine, then the other side signals quit for a little while and the gear indicator is back to working fine.. Its driving me nuts. :-)

I'm wondering since all that is needed to run turn signals is a two pole switch, a flasher, a switched power source and the turn signals, I see no reason to include the 24 sub branches sprouting from the turn signal control unit.

I've rewired as I've progressed on the bike and the ignition, start/kill, charging system and headlight each have their own dedicated circuit.

I no longer use an ignitor box either......dont need one. :-)

Does anyone know of some reason why a turn signal control unit must be included in the wiring? I'm thinking to also re configure the check panel control unit to simplify the harness too. Any thoughts out there? :-)

Earl

The turn signal control unit and the gear position indicator are powered by the same fuse. Check the integrity of the fuse connections.....The only problem with bypassing the T/S control unit is the T/S switch itself. If I'm not mistaken the switch is just a "momentary" type and returns to center after you go left or right. The models that dont have this system like my 78, have a switch that stays on left or right until you push it over to the center to cancel. I always liked the auto cancel set-up myself and would lean toward fixing it. If it messes up fairly regularly it can be diagnosed. It's a fairly straightforward system.....BadBillyB