Bring up '82 GS750T with new engine from storage?

[Anonymous]

A friend of mine has a 1982 GS750T with a blown engine that I'm thinking of buying. He bought a replacement engine for it about 6 years ago, but never got around to putting it in. He's giving me a pretty good deal on it, but I want to make sure I know what I'm getting into here. I've done some research here, but while I'm handy in general, my specific knowledge of motorcycle engines is pretty rusty (last time I worked on them was about 17 years ago with my dad), to say the very least, so please feel free to chime in and tell me where my assumptions or knowledge is wrong.

I've read rgierer's post about resurrecting an old GS that sat for 14 years, so I think I have an idea of what to expect in general, but this is a new (AFAIK; it might have been rebuilt, I need to double-check on that) engine, so I'm not sure which sets of advice will and won't apply.

Sounds like I'll want to replace:

* O-rings in the carbs
* O-rings in the brake pistons
* O-rings in the manifold
* Rubber piston boot in the brake calipers
* Fork oil
* Tires/Tubes
* Air and Oil filters

What about the seals on the oil pump and/or fuel pump? Should I replace the rings on the pistons as well?

Am I missing anything? It was stored indoors, so I don't think I'll need new fork seals, but I'm prepared to do so if an inspection shows they need it. From what I've read here, it sounds like Robert Barr is the go-to guy for the O-rings (at least for the carbs), but my local Suzuki dealer says they can get me a kit with all the seals & gaskets for my engine for $150, so if it's not going to save me a significant amount of money or get me better parts, I prefer to buy locally.

I don't know if it was stored with gas in it (yet-- I'll ask tomorrow), but if so, then I'll want to clean the tank out, obviously. I've found some resources on the Web on that, and they all seem to say to fill the tank with a mild acid wash, and then seal it with a fuel tank liner from somebody like Kreem.

I'll also want to inspect the carbs on the new engine (easy, since I'll be disassembling them to replace the rubber parts anyway), and clean them if warranted. (Probably not, given that the engine was sold as new, but hey, I'm in there anyway, so why not?)

For the brake system, what do I do if it was stored with fluid in the reservoir? Just replace the whole system from the reservoir on down, or is there a way to clean it out? (Even if I can clean it, is it worth the effort, or should I just chuck the whole thing and replace it anyway?) Is it worth it to install an inline fuel filter at this point, and if so, what brands/models are recommended?

Also, since this is a new engine (still on the pallet it was shipped on, even), what will I need to do as far as lube, etc. to start it for the first time?

And finally, since I'm new to motorcycle engines, I'm sure I must have forgotten something. What else should I consider?

Thanks for any help! I'm looking forward to working on this bike, and hopefully getting it in riding condition before the season's over.

[SqDancerLynn1]

I wouldn't mess with the brakes other than flushing with new fluid until you know if they work.
To get the enging going I would of course change the oil & filter Remove the spark plugs, put a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders, crank the engine (5 sec at time) with the plugs out until it gets oil pressure. Reinstall the plugs

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't mess with the brakes other than flushing with new fluid until you know if they work.

You don't think so? I'm not worried about the shoes, but you don't think the rubber seals would have plasticized in the past 6 years the bike's been sitting in a garage?

Other than that, though, have I covered everything that needs replacing?

-=Eric

[Anonymous]

Now that I think of it, I'll want to replace the seals on the oil pump and transmisison as well, right?

Since the replacement engine was not a rebuild, but simply taken off a working bike (again, 6-7 years ago), the more I'm thinking I'll need to rebuild it. Am I overthinking this, or is that a reasonable reaction?

[SqDancerLynn1]

I think you are trying to make too much of a job out of it If any thing
do a compression test & check the valve clearances. BEFORE you just rip the motor apart get it running first!!!!!! My 850 sat for almost 20 years before I got it. The motor had 24K miles on it. It now has almost 40K in two years of use The motor has never been apart other than for a valve adjustment

[IanFrancisco]

Tank sealer

I've heard conflicting opinions about tank sealers like Kreem. I've read that if the tank isn't too rusty you can clean it out with solvent and gravel. Make like Carmen Miranda and shake the tank like a maraca or a martini shaker and let the gravel scrape off the rust. I've heard that Kreem will eventually degrade and start to peel or flake and clog the petcock. If the tank is so rusty that the gravel trick doesn't work it might be advisable to look for a replacement...

My $0.02

Ian

[Anonymous]

I think you are trying to make too much of a job out of it If any thing
do a compression test & check the valve clearances. BEFORE you just rip the motor apart get it running first!!!!!!

Well, I just didn't want to hurt it by not prepping it properly before I got it running in the first place.

My 850 sat for almost 20 years before I got it. The motor had 24K miles on it. It now has almost 40K in two years of use The motor has never been apart other than for a valve adjustment

That is encouraging, but I think I'll at least check the cam chain and carburetors before I try to start it up.

-=Eric