I set the gap for both 1-4 and 2-3 points, and I can set the timing for the 1-4 points, but when I try to set the timing for the 2-3 points, I run out of adjustment on the slots on the plate. The plate is rotated as far as I can move it to the right and the points are still open. I noticed in another thread that it is more important to have the timing right rather than get too worried about the gap. Should I make the gap smaller when it's open as wide as possible so that they will open (or close?) at the right point?
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Ignition timing question
I'm trying to set the timing on my 78 GS750 and I'm running into a problem.
I set the gap for both 1-4 and 2-3 points, and I can set the timing for the 1-4 points, but when I try to set the timing for the 2-3 points, I run out of adjustment on the slots on the plate. The plate is rotated as far as I can move it to the right and the points are still open. I noticed in another thread that it is more important to have the timing right rather than get too worried about the gap. Should I make the gap smaller when it's open as wide as possible so that they will open (or close?) at the right point?Tags: None
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 44506
- Brooksville Fl.
Re: Ignition timing question
I've usually had that problem when I forgot to set the breaker plate centered in the 12 oclock location adustment slot before starting with setting any points gaps. 14 thousandths seems to work best for gap.
Earl
Originally posted by ptmI'm trying to set the timing on my 78 GS750 and I'm running into a problem.
I set the gap for both 1-4 and 2-3 points, and I can set the timing for the 1-4 points, but when I try to set the timing for the 2-3 points, I run out of adjustment on the slots on the plate. The plate is rotated as far as I can move it to the right and the points are still open. I noticed in another thread that it is more important to have the timing right rather than get too worried about the gap. Should I make the gap smaller when it's open as wide as possible so that they will open (or close?) at the right point?Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.
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ptm
I saw that suggested in an old thread, but I couldn't see how that would affect either the gap or the eventual setting for the timing. I'll give it a try.
Thanks
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 44506
- Brooksville Fl.
This appears to me to be the reason. The cam lobe is half round, half elliptical. That results in the point gap changing at a different rate depending on where you are with the points rubbing block on the lobe. If you are centered, then movement on the lobe results in more or less a linear relationship to timing of the gap opening and closing. This isnt a problem with the 1-4 point set because you can rotate the plate enough to set to the marks regardless. On the 2,3 set, you do not have the option of rotating the breaker plate. You can only slide the half plate up or down. the range of motion with the half plate is limited and if you have set the 1,4 side on the wide/flattening side of the lobe, then you will run out of travel with the half plate when trying to set timing.
Earl
Originally posted by ptmI saw that suggested in an old thread, but I couldn't see how that would affect either the gap or the eventual setting for the timing. I'll give it a try.
ThanksKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.
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