DESPERATE FOR ANSWERS!!!

[Anonymous]

Hello all. I just purchased a 1983 GS550L (title and frame say 1984,but local shop says that can't be right???)for $400 from a guy who is no longer able to ride. He told me that the bike was running good when he quit riding it but it needed a battery. I went to the local suzuki shop today and purchased a new battery and put it on the bike (after charging). All of the lights come on but when I try to start it the starter clicks once and my lights get dim and thats all that happens ( I tried to jump the starter solenoid but same thing happens). I can push the bike with it in gear so I am assuming that the motor is not locked up. Another problem I am having is that with the bike in neutral it rolls easily but when I put it in gear and pull the clutch it does not. I also rode it down a hill (not trying to start it) and with it in neutral I kept hearing a whining sound. Any help you GS experts can give me would be greatly appreciated. THANKS.

[WesV]

First off, check you ground connections and that type of thing and then take a volt meter and se wh at voltage your new battery has in it. if less then 12.3 or so you are undercharged for a brand new battery. Can you put the bike in 2nd or 3rd gear and push it so that the engine turns? You ought to be able to do this with little difficulty (if you have some mass behind you to push with )

Why does the mechanic think it isn't an 84?? I would want to believe what I see on the frame on and not some person's opinion. Fame numbers don't lie unless switched by a PO and that is rather uncommon in my experience.

[nabrams]

Have you tried to push-start the bike?
Your starter motor may be really dirty inside, preventing full electrical contact: been-there, done-that.

If the bike has been sitting for some time you're going to have many tasks to perform before the bike runs properly.
Here's some advice I gave to somemone:
I've "restored" two GS450 bikes that had been sitting for long periods (mine and a friend's) so I've encountered almost all the typical issues.
You will almost certainly need to do a thorough carb cleaning. The fact that it started up is deceptive. It will not produce smooth, full power till you get those carbs spotless. Your air filter element, air box and all boots that connect to the carbs will have to be checked (any air leaks and all bets are off - see my other posts about this). Your regulator/rectifier and stator should be checked (as described in the garage section of this site). It is also likely that you'll have some loose and/or dirty electrical connections.
Some of the cables may need lubrication and adjustment. Of course, you will need a new battery.
If you've never done any of the above stuff then it will take you a while to learn it all and to acquire the right tools - anywhere between 25 and 60 hours of work - I'm trying to be realistic here based on my own experience. The second time I did a "restore" (on my friend's GS450) it went much, much faster. A Clymer's manual is a must.
If you're in no rush and you enjoy wrenching an hour or two a night then I'd say go for it. If not, you could take it to shop and pay an arm-and-a-leg for them to do half-baked job that you'll have to "finish up" - once again, I'm speaking from personal experience I had with a Honda many years ago.

Here's some more:
You had a running bike before the carb rebuild, so I'd guess your main problem is with the carbs. However, it is possible that other factors are just borderline enough that a slightly worse carb situation would expose those issues as well.
Before tearing the carbs down again, verify all the easy stuff first:
1. Put in brand new plugs - I can't tell you how much time I've wasted just to finally realize that my plugs were so wet and fouled that the bike had no chance of starting. This is especially common after doing carb related stuff.
2. Verify your air filter element and box and boots are all set up properly and that there are NO air leaks.
3. Using those new plugs, check that each one is sparking. If the bike is properly carbureted, even a faily weak spark should ignite the fuel/air mixture.
4. Verify that your petcock is letting fuel through to all carbs.
If all of the above checks out OK and you still can't get her started, then it's time to tear into those carbs again. Make sure your floats aren't leaking (there should be no liquid sloshing around inside of them) - I once overlooked that very important test and spent many hours fiddling with other things till I remebered to check if my floats were leaking. Sure enough, one of them was leaking like a sieve.

[Anonymous]

The # on the frame is the mfg. date. The early "84" models were actually manufactured in mid to late "83". Take the starter cover off, and with the ign. on, the clutch pulled in, and the starter button pushed in, see if you have at least 12 volts at at the red wire

[Anonymous]

I'd start with getting it to turn over properly. What I'd do:

Borrow a trickle charger and start charging the battery. Hit the spark plug cavities with compressed air.

Pull the plugs. Maybe buy new ones later. Squirt an ounce of motor oil into each cylinder. Pull the ignition cover. Crank the engine manually perhaps 12 revolutions.

Get a volunteer or two. Have them push you, stick it into second or third, and dump the clutch. Do this a few times. Does it sound healthy at all?

After this, drain the fuel bowls. Are they full of glshhh & sh#$#? You know what to do...

Finally, drain the fuel tank, add a quart of fresh gas, slosh it around, and drain that out too. Then add half a gallon more with the fuel line hooked back up.

THEN put the battery in and see how it cranks over with a fully charged battery and no spark plugs in the engine. Does it still sound healthy? Does the oil light go out? Yes?

NOW you're ready to try to start the engine. Put antisieze compound on the plug threads. Put the plugs back in and give it a shot. If / when it starts, it's going to stink until it burns up that oil you put in the cylinders. Don't worry about it. That's the smell of success.

[Anonymous]

Ok guys, I pulled the plugs and found rust on the #4 plug so I filled the cylinders with penetrating oil and let it set for a couple hours and hand turned the motor over. Once it broke loose the starter turned it over very well and blew all of the gunk out of the cylinders. I still can not get the bike to move freely with it in gear and the clutch pulled in, but it will in neutral. Any ideas?????

[beby99]

I would try adjusting the clutch cable

[Anonymous]

Try my idea of having a few people push you with the clutch pulled in. Then...

After sitting for a very long time, it's possible your drive & driven plates are stuck together. Just get a manual, pull the clutch apart, clean the components and reassemble. If done carefully, you won't even need a new gasket.

It's also possible that if you get it running first, and let it run in neutral until it's fully warmed, the clutch plates could separate on their own.

You want engine oil in those cylinders now. Penetrating oil won't lubricate well enough when it first starts up.

[duaneage]

Get the oil out and change it if you have not already. Sounds like the clutch plates are probably varnished together, you may have to pull them out and pull them apart as previously posted. keep them in the order and direction they come out. clutches run about 60-70 dollars so if they look FUBAR now would be good time (and a good investment) to replace them.

Even if you get it loose your probably going to have clutch issues so I would go in there after it and take care if it now.

[Anonymous]

I appreciate all of your help guys. I think you may be right about the clutch being stuck because like I said there was NO OIL in the bike and I can not imagine that being a good thing. I will keep you all posted on my progress. Thanks all couldn't do it with out your help!!!
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