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Can somone tell me how? I already have the cable instaled in the same rout as the old one and have the slack tajen out using the adjustment half way down the cable. Now I have an adjustment on the hand lever and on the clutch lever. I know you are supose to adjust one and fine tune with the other so how do I do it? Also for my speedo and clutch I purchased Motion Pro cables from bike bandit. Are these any good? What kind of life shouls I expect out of them? Any other pertinent info I need to know? Thanks a million
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Jason: I think it would help if we knew something about the year and model of your bike. That said, there are at least three key elements in adjusting your clutch, and probably a couple more that people smarter than me can think of. I'm not very good at describing how to do stuff, and mostly I go by just the feel of things to get the clutch right for the desired "friction zone". Probably because that zone is sort of unique for each person, and what I adjust to may not be to your preferences. Anyway, take this advice with a little flexibility and adapt to your desires.
First, slacken up at the handlebar/clutch lever so you can just-not-quite engage the clutch, but like sort of barely not at all. [That's the best way I can put it; it's not like I've measured things.] Hard to explain, but it will be like the difference between being able to engage the clutch, and not.
Next, cinch up the cable, tightening at the clutch housing on the engine end of the cable so that the cable sheath backs away from the housing, making the cable link to the clutch throw-out lever arm just about tight, but not so tight that the withdraw spring begins to stretch. I realize you can't look inside the clutch cover; you just have to have a feel for when you think the throw out lever is beginning to turn or not.
Once you are at this balanced level of tightness between the upper lever and the lower throw-out arm, you set what I call, for lack of a technical term, the "clutch throw-out pin set screw". I'm sure that isn't what it's called, but it is the teeny screw that is located in the middle of the throw-out lever/wormscrew combination. Sorry I can't describe it better, you just have to look at it. This screw has a cinch nut on it that you need to release first. Back out the screw several turns until it feels like it is turning freely. Then slowly turn it back in until you feel it "hit" the clutch throw-out pin. Wiggle the screw in and out as you need to feel it "hit", so you are pretty sure it is just tight with the pin. Lock down the nut.
At this point you're nearly done. Make sure the nut and tighteners on the clutch cover are tighened down so they can't back out or come loose under vibration or normal operation. From this point on, all adjusting can be done at your clutch lever. It's amazing, but once you have it set up just right at the engine end of the clutch cable, the 4-7 millimeter tweaking you can do at the lever is all you need to very finely control how the clutch throws out and how generous or "unforgiving" of a friction zone you have.
So sorry to sound kind of "spacy-oh-wow" about having to feel your way through this adjustment, but that is the case. Play around with it until you get what you want. Good luck, and be well...
...Ross -
With a new cable I like to screw the handle bar adjuster all the way in and then work with the other adjusters. I get things adjusted so that when I jiggle the lever the cable is able to move freely. ie. There is a brief transition where the cable end isn't touching the lever.
SteveComment
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Darn it I am sorry I compleatly forgot. The bike is a 1979 GS850G. I think I have a handel on it now. I will make the adjustment and take it out on the first day that we dont have rain.Comment
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I guess that model doesn't have the screw type clutch built into it's chain cover.
SteveComment
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Chain cover. OOPS. Forgot to mention its a shafty. Sorry aganComment
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