Can someone scan a copy of the DynoJet paperwork for me?

[Anonymous]

I'm an idiot and lost the charts that came with my DynoJet kit for my 1978 GS1000. I installed the kit a year ago and lost the darned chart. Now I'm having issues with the tuning - yeah, I'm finally getting around to adjusting it right. I have no idea where anything is set and don't know where to go....

I've got the stage 3 kit. I've got the installation instructions, just not the charts that tell you what jets to use and where to put the clip on the needles.

Another funny thing, the air screws don't seem to affect the idle unless they're closed, then it just sorta misses a little. Any thoughts?

This damned bike is starting to get to me - it's been 2 and a half years now and I still don't have it running right. Close to throwing in the towel...

Thanks,
Jay

[pano]

Go to dynojet

http://www.dynojet.com

click on bike jet kits

find your kit, open the pdf and print and save it.

[Jethro]

May carbs have been off the bike at least 10 times in the last month. That doesn't include the needle adjustments I have made with the carbs in place. Keep at it, I am finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel!

[Anonymous]

Pano - I tried the DynoJet website - for some reason my bike is the only one that doesn't have a PDF file available. I've seen other kits' paperwork for different bikes and they're so much nicer than the Xerox that came with my kit...weird.

Any other thoughts?

[pano]

I would call them up and ask them. They should be able to email you something.

What luck, I took a look myself and sure enough no pdf.

[Anonymous]

Yeah, I guess I'll have to call them.

I sent them an email about a week ago and never got a response...hmph.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

If the side air screws aren't effecting the rpm's as they should, then most likely the air passages are dirty or the screws are not the correct ones.
I have a '79 GS1000 with a V&H pipe, K&N ovals and a 1085 kit. I also have the DJ stage 3 jet kit. I can help you with the re-jetting but I'm leaving in just a few hours until Monday.
If you still need help, let me know.
I don't recommend all the "base settings" that DJ suggests. Depends on your mod's. Their base setting with the needle e-clip in position #2 from the top, is too lean. The 138 main (also their base setting choice) works well for my set up though.
Tell me what mod's you have, what brand name of parts, and any other info regarding the condition of the motor. I'll get back to you.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the help Keith.

When I bought the bike it had entirely the wrong carbs on it with makeshift radiator hose filter adapters and intake manifolds of dubious origin. I swapped out the carbs for the original carbs that belonged on the bike. I then found that the #3 piston was cracked because of a seized wrist pin. I replaced that piston and all the rings. The cylinder bores looked like brand spanking new - no scoring.

I checked the valve clearances and they are all pretty darned close and within spec.

At this point I have the stock carbs with a DynoJet stage 3 kit, K&N oval pod filters, and a MAC 2 into 4 exhaust (glasspack mufflers with turnouts).

Off the top of my head, I have no idea where the needle is set. I could find out, though. Does the DynoJet kit come with different air screws? I think I may have changed them which may account for their uselessness.

I know that these carbs are absolutely clean and that all of the o-rings are new. The pilot screws are as perfect as you can get.

Thanks again for your help,
Jay

[Hoomgar]

Is this the critter your looking for?

http://www.dynaonline.com/english/instruct/StandardCoil.pdf

[Anonymous]

Hoomgar - thanks, but no, the coils are the least of my problems. I was able to install the coils and the electronic ignition with almost no effort at all. What I'm looking for is the chart that comes with the DynoJet carb kit that tells you what should be installed as a base setting. Thanks anyway,

Jay

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi Jay. First of all, the DJ kit doesn't supply new side air screws. I thought I should mention the screws could be wrong as a possibility. I've seen carbs butchered and pieced together. If you can show a pic' of the screws or give detailed info of their appearance, that would help. They're most likely correct, but you never know. If the screws are correct, and you say the passage is clean, then the only other way the screw could have no effect would be if the carb slides are out of synch and the idle's been adjusted beyond an rpm the screws can reach. Your bike should idle well at 1,100 rpm's. The air screws should effect idle at this rpm.
As for your exhaust, the stage 3 DJ kit was designed with a free flow exhaust in mind. I believe your exhaust will be more restrictive than the kit was designed for, but it will still work. It just adds to the jetting trial and error. I'm familiar with the K&N ovals.
As for the DJ base settings (with a free flow pipe), they say to use the 138 main, the jet needle e-clip in position 2 (from the top), make pilot screw adjustments to assist the stock pilot jet, and remove the two floatbowl vent lines.
I assume the bike is ready for re-jetting. That means the carbs are cleaned inside... any o-rings inside are good...the floats have been set close to .94" (be sure the floats are even on each side and not tweaked)...the two plastic jet needle spacers are installed in the correct order... the manifold o-rings are good and the manifolds have been replaced (you mentioned some manifold issue)... the carbs have been manually synched (fully closed and fully opened slide positions) in preparation for a vacuum tool synch...the two floatbowl vent lines removed and the nipples left open...the side air screws adjusted for highest rpm and the pilot fuel screws (underneath) adjusted at a good starting point (depends where they were when the bike was stock and running well)...usually an ADDITIONAL 1/2 turn out is a good starting point for the pilot fuel screws...the valve clearances should be set correctly...the ignition timing set correctly... the plugs replaced...the ovals oiled correctly.
If you make any needle adjustments, you must re-synch the VM carbs everytime. To accurately re-jet these carbs, you must synch them with a vacuum tool. Get the levels so the difference is no more than a 1/2" from the highest to the lowest level.
I haven't jetted for your exhaust, but I'll make my jetting suggestions.
Definitely the 138 main,
Try the needle e-clip in the 4th position with a JETTING SPACER on top the e-clip... be sure the thicker plastic spacer (ring) goes on top of the jetting spacer and the thinner plastic spacer goes under the e-clip, (to possibly save work and if the bike is ready for re-jetting as I described, you may want to do a needle circuit plug test before making my suggested setting and then make a needle adjustment that makes sense, if needed),
Adjust the pilot fuel screws out as I said earlier,
Be sure to remove the floatbowl vent lines to avoid fuel starvation.
The pilot fuel screws are sensitive to adjustments. Be sure you only seat these sharp tipped screws lightly. It's common to have them set at different points (ex: 1 1/4, 1 1/2, 1 5/8, 1 1/4) after final tuning because of differences in each cylinder. They should end up within a 1/2 turn of each other though. I assume you know how to adjust the side air screws for highest rpm's?
Pilot circuit re-jetting can take some time to get exact. Once you're close, small adjustments can still effect performance and plug color. I plug test at a steady 35 mph in 4th gear. There's still some minimal needle overlap at these speeds but it works good enough for me. I go a few miles and chop the bike off and read. I always do this after any higher speed plug tests.
I test the needle circuit at 1/3 throttle position in 5th gear. I mark the throttle. I test for a couple of miles and chop the bike off.
For the main circuit, I go full throttle.
I can get away with these high speed tests where I live. Be careful if you do the same.
I seem to go against the "norm" by getting the needle circuit right, then the main. I get the needle circuit running good and the plug color good, then I install the largest main I have that doesn't create any bogging or flat spots during a 5th gear roll on at 60 mph. Works for me. I always choose a bike that will perform as it should in every day riding situations, even if I do give up a couple mph at the top end.
Let me know if you have any questions. Check out my '79 1000E at my website if you like. Just click the WWW symbol below.

[Hoomgar]

Hoomgar - thanks, but no, the coils are the least of my problems. I was able to install the coils and the electronic ignition with almost no effort at all. What I'm looking for is the chart that comes with the DynoJet carb kit that tells you what should be installed as a base setting. Thanks anyway,

Jay

Sorry dood. I should have read more through the thread. That was just stupid of me

These guys will get you going

[Anonymous]

Keith -

I got a chance to work on the bike this weekend - I set it up as you advised and what a difference!! There is no bogging, no flat spots.

Once I got everything back together, the bike started right up (with choke) then warmed up pretty quick. Once off choke, I had to back the idle screw all the way out to get it down to 1100 RPM. The air screws make a little more difference now. It seemed to be running really well, so I put it away for the night (finished around dinner time) and figured I'd ride it to work this morning and check the plugs when I got there.

I went out, set the choke, tried to start it, but couldn't. It started to catch a little with about 1/2 choke, but never really cought hold. The battery died on me and I ended up taking my car to work. It was a little chilly this morning, but I've started it up before at this temperature without any problem. Any thoughts?

Thank you so much for your help, it's nice to see the light at the end of the tunnel finally.

Jay

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Glad you're making progress. I do have some thoughts on what's probably happening regarding the morning start problem.
There are many things that could cause this but I have to assume you did the rebuild/cleaning correctly, adjusted the floats as I said, and the motor is in good shape too.
I have to think you're not synching the carbs correctly. My clues are where you say "I had to back the idle screw all the way out to get it down to 1,100 rpm's". You also said the side air screw makes "a little more difference now". Also, the cold start problem the next morning is a poor carb synch symptom.
I have to take you literally about backing the idle adjuster knob all the way out to get the idle down to 1,100. If it's all the way out, which would mean it's not contacting the throttle pulley, this would mean the throttle valve adjuster screws are tightened too much. Even with some contact available at the pulley, the valves can still be too far out of synch.
The side air screws should have more effect than how you describe too. Again, a poor carb synch will minimize their effect.
The cold start problem is a gauranteed result of a poor carb synch too. If the throttle valves aren't at the correct position, the vacuum/mixture is way off. This can cause a lean condition and the bike will not start easily, if at all.
I've been through this when I first learned to synch/tune the VM carbs. I killed batteries too, etc. I learned how you can't cut corners with a carb rebuild or the synch. The synch is a major part of re-jetting.
In short, a bench synch is setting the valves uniformly at their FULLY closed and open positions. Once set correctly, several turns of the idle adjuster knob are needed to allow the bike to start in preparation for the vacuum tool synch. The bike will start and setting the idle to about 1,100 should be easy. You observe the vacuum levels. If your bench synch was decent, you should be able to adjust the higher vacuum level(s) down to the lower ones without much trouble. Over-adjusting the valve adjuster screws will cause the bike to run off the idle adjuster knob.
The way you describe the problem, just reminds me of the troubles I had while learning.
I suggest taking the carbs off, loosening all the throttle valve adjuster screws finger tight, then do a good bench synch. This should be followed by a vacuum tool synch to avoid jetting problems. Motion Pro makes a simple tool for about $40. If you don't know how to do a bench synch for BOTH the fully closed and open throttle positions, let me know. I've posted it before (search?) but I can re-type it if you like.
2 1/2 years is a long time to spend frustrated about this. If you still have trouble, and you're SURE you haven't got other issues, I can bench synch the carbs for you. It would cost you the shipping and a lunch ticket. You would still have to vacuum synch the carbs for best performance.