The new engine look

[Anonymous]

Let me start with a bit of history. My GS850G, 1979, needs a new base gasket. I know, big surprise. Since I really like this bike I have decided to overhaul the engine and strip and paint the frame. I have removed the engine from the frame and I am going to bead blast it with a hard plastic media called "black beauty". I have used this stuff before on aluminum intakes for cars so I know that it works without damaging the aluminum. After I do this I would like to clear-coat it. Any suggestions as to the clear coating process and brand names of the clear coat material? I have an industiral oven at my disposal if I have to bake the finish.
As to why, is the bike really worth it? No, but I want to do this anyway.
Albert aka instructorpilot

 

[Anonymous]

Can't answer your questions, but I'd love to see some pictures after you are done. I've been tossing around doing about the same to my bike this winter.

P.S. I think these great bikes ARE worth it!

 

[Anonymous]

So you're going to clear coat the engine or the frame? I'll assume for the time being that you're referring to the engine, since it and the intake manifold for the car motor are both aluminum. You are not going to polish it first?

The coating that is on the engine now comes off quite easily with household varieties of paint stripper. Then hosed off with water to neutralize it. It can then be easily polished again, something I plan to do eventually myself (I did do the coutershaft cover already).

If you're just going to clearcoat bead blasted aluminim it may not look as good. There are a lot of powder coating options available to us home do-it-yourself'r types that have the oven to use (not the oven you plan to still cook food in). One of the best I've seen (haven't used it yet, but plan to soon) is available from the Eastwood company. They even have tinted clearcoats that look really nice on polished surfaces. But If you're going
with the bead blast finish... a clear may not be the best choice.

Now if it's the frame.... that ought to be interesting :?

Cheers,

Roger Moore

 

[Anonymous]

If your side covers aren't oxidized too bad you may want to use paint stripper instead of blasting them. This way you won't have to do as much polishing. However for the rest of the engine blasting is the way to go. I've only used walnut shells myself but I image the plastic beads will work well too. Be certain to seal every opening really well, and I mean VERY WELL! It's damn near impossible to keep that stuff from getting in somewhere. Suggestion, use silicone sealer instead of duct tape, the beads will bounce off the silicone, but will tear off tape.
As for painting, I haven't found a good clear paint yet for the side covers so you're on your own there. If you find something that doesn't yellow or flake off, let me know. I think you'll want to paint the engine cases, cylinder and head. The blasting will make them too rough to just clear. Hirsch Automotive has a selection of 600 Deg. engine paints, you might give them a try. www.hirschauto.com
Axel

 

[Anonymous]

actually, the polished bits such as the valve cover, and side covers will remain polished. the cyl barrels and head and cases will be blasted because it is easier to get the crannies. The black beauty stuff does leave a nice finish on the aluminun though. I had not thought of using it on the polished parts. I will have to investigate this further. The frame will be painted with regular high quality paint. I was refering to clear coating the engine and then baking it. If I don't have to bake the engine, I don't want to, that is why I was looking for brands of clear or clear paint
al

 

[Anonymous]

If your side covers aren't oxidized too bad you may want to use paint stripper instead of blasting them. This way you won't have to do as much polishing. However for the rest of the engine blasting is the way to go. I've only used walnut shells myself but I image the plastic beads will work well too. Be certain to seal every opening really well, and I mean VERY WELL! It's damn near impossible to keep that stuff from getting in somewhere. Suggestion, use silicone sealer instead of duct tape, the beads will bounce off the silicone, but will tear off tape.
As for painting, I haven't found a good clear paint yet for the side covers so you're on your own there. If you find something that doesn't yellow or flake off, let me know. I think you'll want to paint the engine cases, cylinder and head. The blasting will make them too rough to just clear. Hirsch Automotive has a selection of 600 Deg. engine paints, you might give them a try. www.hirschauto.com
Axel

The engine will be disassembled when I do this but the silicone sealer is a good idea. I was wondering how I was going to protect the sealing surfaces.
al

 

[Anonymous]

Are you positive Black Beauty is plastic?? Last time I used it, it was a slag product and I think still is. I'm not sure but I would think glass beads would be less abrasive. Look back a week ago,(maybe 2) for a post I started about "Glass beads on Aluminium?" Bob

 

[Anonymous]

I agree with cabinover. We used quite a bit of black beauty when sealing the cracks in commercial parking lots to make it nice and purty and sparkly when your lights hit it.


-=Whittey=-

 

[Anonymous]

I agree with cabinover. We used quite a bit of black beauty when sealing the cracks in commercial parking lots to make it nice and purty and sparkly when your lights hit it.


-=Whittey=-

I have to look at the bag again but I am sure that it is a plastic media. I may have gotten the name wrong.
-Al

 

[Hap Call]

When I blasted my cases I used a glass bead blaster that a friend of mine used on aircraft parts (he is in the aircraft maintenance biz) and that worked fine. I then painted my engine black so I have no advice on the clear coat...BUT...I would be very careful when curing paint in a oven...you may find that the cases may warp and the motor will not go back together as it should. The reason you do not have a problem when you are heating the motor when riding is because the studs and bolts are keeping all the surfaces aligned. Even with the cylinder studs people still find leaking at the base gasket and head gasket. I would be very concerned about crank bearing alignment if I baked on a coating.

Hap

 

[Anonymous]

For durability, powder coat is the way to go. If you have access to an oven, you can cure it yourself. And as Roger mentioned, the powders and equipment are available through The Eastwood Comopany. I'd recommend doing the frame too, probably in a satin black. As for the engine parts, you might consider using aluminum colored paint instead of clear. Eastwood sells this in powder coat and in wet paint. I'm pretty sure the engine on my 79 GS750L was originally painted, and I'll probably repaint it when I tear it down to rebuild the top end.

 

[Anonymous]

I would be very concerned about crank bearing alignment if I baked on a coating.

This is a very good point. You have to bake powdercoat upwards of 450 degrees to melt it and cure it. Maybe if you bolt it all together it'll help minimize movement, but wouldn't that be a drag to have warped cases.

Roger Moore

 

[Anonymous]

You really don't need to powder coat engine parts. Just use a high temp paint (600 degree) made for engines. These will usually cure either from the heat of the engine when running, or can be cured at about 150 degrees in an oven. And 150 degrees shouldn't cause any warpage to the cases.
Axel

 

[Anonymous]

As usual I am getting all the information that I need. Powdercoating the frame is a great idea, baking the engine is not, I had forgotten about the warpage. My real goal is to remove the oxidation on the engine finning. Painting the engine is a great idea, I see aluminum wheels that are painted shiny aluminum all the time. I will have to find a bigger blasting cabinet to clean up the frame though.
On the wiring harness, there seems to be a kind of tape that is wrapped around the wire bundles, any ideas on what that is. I am guessing it is not electrical tape. I am replacing all the electrical connectors that are associated with the alternator rectifier/regulator with screw together connectors. They are insulated and waterproof. That should eliminate the corrosion that causes the burned out alternators.
Ahhhhhh the joy of working on vintage iron. Geeze, I remember when these machines were new and cutting edge. Does that make me vintage as well.