Constant cans of starting fluid.

[Anonymous]

My dad owns a GS850 we have just rebuilt however he has gone through several cans of starting fluid. The engine just won't seem to turnover unless it has some in it. We have taken this bike apart time and time again and can't seem to find the cause. We are almost completly done with this rebuild we just need to find out the cause and tweak it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[DMPLATT]

The Year would help.

However, you mention Rebuild. What was done to the carbs?

Also, try the Petcock in PRI position and see if that helps. Sound like (assuming the rebuild thing) all else is ok, may be a fuel supply issue.

WARNING: Don't leave it in PRI when NOT running.

edit: P.S. I'm from Dayton: Where are you at?

[RacingJake]

Do a cold compression check and if it's above 100 psi it should run if the timing is set right. Then check for spark at each cylinder at TDC of the compression stoke. Then move on to the fuel system and carbs. May just be alot of trash in the carbs and blocking mains, pilot jets or the choke enrichment circuit is plugged.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Welcome One thing DO you have the air box installed It will not run properly without it & having all connections air tight. Make sure the choke pasages in the float bowls ore clean
As to the starting?? Normal starting procedure
Fuel valve on prime for 5 seconds to make sure bowls are full, turn back to ON. Give FULL choke (maker sure the cable is adjusted) DO not give it any throdle Start the bike

[joeadams]

Is the battery charged up properly. If mine isn't charged up and the engine can't crank fast enough it won't start. Put the petcock on prime as well if it has sat a while. Does it give you a hard time when its alreayd warmed up?

[Anonymous]

Sorry for the little bit of info.

The bike is a 1979 Suzuki GS850.
The air box was switched out with aftermarket air filters.
The carbs were completly cleaned and rebuilt by a local company.
The bike will run fine once it has warmed up.
The battery is fully charged.

Also I'm located in the Columbus area.

Thanks again.

[RacingJake]

Sounds like the choke enrichment circuit is plugged.

PS say hi to my brother, he's just east of you down by the dragstrip can't be that big of a city :?

[Anonymous]

petcock setting

Could someone tell me after getting a carb started (after rebuild) and you take it off pri where do you set it. Mine only has pri in the upper left corner (as you are looking at it) and it says fuel on the rim of the petcock at 12:00 but nothing else to show you where its suppose to be.
thanks for your help. 1980 gs850glt

[LW_Icarus]

to the right is prime, to the left is reserve and straight up/down is "on". pay attention to the arrow on the lever.

normally you would leave it in the "up" position.

I am in columbus ohio as well, at least a bit north of it, hope once I get my project up and running to find a few people on similar bikes to ride with, not gonna be much fun riding with all my crotch rocket buddies.

I would recommend you cease and desist with the starting fluid. that stuff is evil, and should be banned from your work area. use gumout, as it wont strip the lubricant as easily from the parts it touches. if an engine fails to start after a shot of ether, it will surely rust.

in my previous experience changing out the airbox with pods meant it would run lean unless rejetted. same goes with a pipe modification. the ether would richen it enough to start possibly? try putting the airbox back on and see if it solves the problem.

I also seem to remember the early 80s bikes were jetted to the lean side from the factory for emissions purposes or something, which would make it even worse.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Sorry for the little bit of info.

The bike is a 1979 Suzuki GS850.
The air box was switched out with aftermarket air filters.
The carbs were completly cleaned and rebuilt by a local company.
The bike will run fine once it has warmed up.
The battery is fully charged.

Also I'm located in the Columbus area.

Thanks again.

If the carbs are clean and the spark is good, you probably have your VM carbs way out of synch. Bench synch the slides for both the fully closed and fully open positions and I suggest you follow this with a vacuum tool synch. Adjust the side air screws using the highest idle method too. The pilot fuel screws (underneath) need to be adjusted correctly too.
With pod filters, you MUST re-jet all 3 jetting circuits. You'll run very lean if you don't re-jet.

[Poot]

Personally, I'd stay away from using starting fluid, as its really hard on the engine.



If you know that the ignition and cam timing is good, then I'll tell you what my problem was.

A test to see if this is whats wrong: Blow into the fuel line. If you can blow, then the needle jets arent stuck. if you cant, they are.

the needle valve had gotten stuck on 3/4 of my carbs, and they wouldnt get fuel. just take the float bowls off (make sure float levels are good) and then take the floats off to take out the needle valves. nothing you need to do, but maybe give em a good wipe, and gently put them back in, and reassemble the carbs.


after that , make sure that your screws are out anywhere from 1.5 -2 turns out on each carb.


I had the same problem, and i was stumped, until i took the bowls off.


poot