MFG Dimensional Specs

[DMPLATT]

Does anyone know where you could find Dimensional specs on these old GS's?

I'm thinking of making a fork brace and would like to know what the distance between the forks is supposed to be.

I'm being Lazy. I could always get everything sorted out, then measure, but would love to know the factory specs.

Thanks.

[first timer]

hmm i should be getting a brace for my 550 soon, i could scan or cad up the brace size for you, maybe even send down my brace for you copy, any other takes want to share there braces

-ryan

[Anonymous]

Does anyone know where you could find Dimensional specs on these old GS's?

I'm thinking of making a fork brace and would like to know what the distance between the forks is supposed to be.

C'mon, Dave. Just get out your tape and measure what you ACTUALLY have. The tolerances are such that you really need to make yours to suit your bike or it will be off. The best type of brace to use is the Telefix type that has two pieces that bolt together in the middle with one bolted to each fork leg separately. The ones that are simply two pieces split with the holes a fixed distance apart can easily induce side loads and a lot of stiction if they are not perfectly aligned.

[Anonymous]

C'mon, Dave. Just get out your tape and measure what you ACTUALLY have. The tolerances are such that you really need to make yours to suit your bike or it will be off. The best type of brace to use is the Telefix type that has two pieces that bolt together in the middle with one bolted to each fork leg separately. The ones that are simply two pieces split with the holes a fixed distance apart can easily induce side loads and a lot of stiction if they are not perfectly aligned.

stiction = my new favorite word

I think you're right. Especially on fork legs that are cast aluminum. Castings aren't usually high-tolerance parts, plus the polishing done to remove parting lines will throw it off more. If they were machined, you could probably get away with a one-piece unit.

[DMPLATT]

Does anyone know where you could find Dimensional specs on these old GS's?

I'm thinking of making a fork brace and would like to know what the distance between the forks is supposed to be.

C'mon, Dave. Just get out your tape and measure what you ACTUALLY have. The tolerances are such that you really need to make yours to suit your bike or it will be off. The best type of brace to use is the Telefix type that has two pieces that bolt together in the middle with one bolted to each fork leg separately. The ones that are simply two pieces split with the holes a fixed distance apart can easily induce side loads and a lot of stiction if they are not perfectly aligned.

Well, what I actually have is OFF. I need to tear the whole front apart and start over. Some how the previous owner got the front end all screwed up to where the calipers won't fit right.

BB gave me the game plan on how to re-align. I was just curious if there were some hard dimensions.

I found a picture of the Telefix brace. Easy enough. I'd be concerned though, I guess it's proven. If you are bolting the 2 brace pieces together, then where is the support? I would think that if you had any kind of side force, they would give a little. Unless I'm missing something.

I'll tear down the front, start over, then measure. I should be able to come with a few thou. If not, then I'll have to fire myself.

Still curious if there are factory dimensions somewhere?

Thanks all.

Ryan, I'm not sure if your 550 would have the same spread? I'm thinking probably a little different. But thanks.

[Anonymous]

I found a picture of the Telefix brace. Easy enough. I'd be concerned though, I guess it's proven. If you are bolting the 2 brace pieces together, then where is the support? I would think that if you had any kind of side force, they would give a little. Unless I'm missing something.

Yup, you are missing something - the bolt preload. When you torque a bolt you apply a clamping force to the parts. This resists the motion between them. This is the same way your head/cylinder block/cases assembly is clamped together and resists the forces involved there. If you do not properly torque the bolts, then the Telefix type isn't much good for anything. I prefer that to a machined center distance that I can't control, however.

I'll tear down the front, start over, then measure. I should be able to come with a few thou. If not, then I'll have to fire myself.

You do not have to be that close, within a mm or so is fine for the Telefix style brace. If you really want to do a split type, the only true way to be accurate is to stack it with the triples and line bore the whole stack to achieve alignment. If you are doing new triples , that is not a big problem but for a retrofit, it's not that practical.

Still curious if there are factory dimensions somewhere?

A couple of years ago, I contacted Suzuki Canada asking for envelope dimensional information for the water cooled GSXR1100 motors. I figured it was an obsolete design and they might be willing to let that go. No luck. They did reply, but simply to say "that is proprietary info and NO". So that is my take on it. I doubt you would have much luck unless someone not in the organization had access to a factory book of some sort, but that is pretty rare stuff in this world.


Mark

[Hoomgar]

Isn't it in any of the service manuals?

[Einar J Skog]

Hi


Go for the Telefix type.
They work great..
Got one on my bike..


Einar Skog

[DMPLATT]

Yup, you are missing something - the bolt preload. When you torque a bolt you apply a clamping force to the parts. This resists the motion between them. This is the same way your head/cylinder block/cases assembly is clamped together and resists the forces involved there. If you do not properly torque the bolts, then the Telefix type isn't much good for anything. I prefer that to a machined center distance that I can't control, however

Well, aren't the heads doweled?
What I was thinking with the Telefix, is that the one piece would have to have slots, so that there is adjustment. I understand the Torque, but I could only find 1 picture, so unless there is something I'm missing.

I agree whole heartedly that that would be the best type. Not hard to make either. I was just concerned that there could be some lateral movement. Looks like they had #10-32's or at best 1/4-20's, so my thinking was that 2 of them, in aluminum, vs. the force of say doing 80 around a twisty with not the best pavement, that could create a serious side force. Yet, as I said, they are tried and trued. Anyone have a good picture of one so's I could study it a bit? :roll:


Thanks for all the info guys. Some food for thought.

Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 4:08 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi


Go for the Telefix type.
They work great..
Got one on my bike..


Einar Skog

I take it it WORKS well then?

8)

[Anonymous]

agree whole heartedly that that would be the best type. Not hard to make either. I was just concerned that there could be some lateral movement. Looks like they had #10-32's or at best 1/4-20's, so my thinking was that 2 of them, in aluminum, vs. the force of say doing 80 around a twisty with not the best pavement, that could create a serious side force.

Not much side force, really, as most of the loads are in the vertical plane of the bike. But to reassure you, a 1/4" Gr.8 fastener properly torqued in steel has a safe structural rating of 1000lb side force ("shear" loading) in a slip-critical connection, which is what we have here. Even being conservative and rating the aluminum at 60% of the steel, you still get a safe rating of 1200lb for the pair. The bike sees no force that high unless you are crashing. Not to worry on that count, then...

I have a Telefix type on my 1100E and do not worry about it at all.


Mark

[DMPLATT]

agree whole heartedly that that would be the best type. Not hard to make either. I was just concerned that there could be some lateral movement. Looks like they had #10-32's or at best 1/4-20's, so my thinking was that 2 of them, in aluminum, vs. the force of say doing 80 around a twisty with not the best pavement, that could create a serious side force.

Not much side force, really, as most of the loads are in the vertical plane of the bike. But to reassure you, a 1/4" Gr.8 fastener properly torqued in steel has a safe structural rating of 1000lb side force ("shear" loading) in a slip-critical connection, which is what we have here. Even being conservative and rating the aluminum at 60% of the steel, you still get a safe rating of 1200lb for the pair. The bike sees no force that high unless you are crashing. Not to worry on that count, then...

I have a Telefix type on my 1100E and do not worry about it at all.


Mark

Thanks. I see your point.
Is there any way you could snap me a couple pics? I've pretty much got it in mind, but a good pic would really help out.
I'm assuming about .100 to .200 long slots should be plenty for adjustment. Think? Or is the 1 piece slotted the whole length?

BTW, are you an engineer? Sounds like it.

[Anonymous]

Is there any way you could snap me a couple pics? I've pretty much got it in mind, but a good pic would really help out.
I'm assuming about .100 to .200 long slots should be plenty for adjustment. Think? Or is the 1 piece slotted the whole length?

I will see if I have any pics handy that show the brace, or I will snap a couple tonight. I will PM you for an e-mail address to send them to when I have some.

The holes aren't even slotted in mine, I expect they are just a loose fit and that is all. If the center spacing is accurately measured, all you will need is a slightly loose hole to allow final alignment. It should be easy enough to get within 0.5-1.0mm of perfect on the initial machining and that will not require much for a slot to accommodate.

Yes, I am an engineer in my day job...Does the funny hat give it away?


Mark

[DMPLATT]

Yes, I am an engineer in my day job...Does the funny hat give it away?

Nope. The way you spit of strengths and torques etcc.....

I'm a quality manager, deal with YOUR kind every day. :twisted: :twisted: Just kidding. :roll:

Thanks.