79' GS1000 problems...

[first timer]

so what main jets are you running did you discover that yet? i don't know what the settings need to be but maybe you can get someone with a jet ket on here to post what setting they have their carb set to. then set your up to their settings. i would hikack homgar's post asking keith for help and see if you can get him to post the settings he was using for the carbs that were on the bike that is having work done on it at the shop.

your bike is going to run like crap until you can get your carb setting sorted out. i would go and look up your carb settings in the letters to the editor oem carb setting post and compare what you have in your bike right now this will give us all a idea of where you stand.

if you have anything close to oem settings your bike will run bad no matter how clean the carbs are. youwould be getting to much air in the fuel mix.

-ryan

[Anonymous]

OK, I took them back off so I could check the jet sizes...and sure enough, they are 261 and 30... So if the main is 261, and its suppose to be 95 maybe to 112, wouldnt this cause a major problem? Could that be why it dies when I try to give it fuel? Is it basically flooding it out?

I still dont understand why it will only run with the choke on though. to choke, the lever should be up right? And choke off should be down correct...?








and the pilot is 30, although its hard to tell in this pic






Here are a few pics of the carbs...









I had both vaccum ports blocked off with caps between carbs 1 and 2, and between 3 and 4...

What about the needle and seats? Should either of them have any rubber on them? I have some fuel leaking out of the filters if I leave the gas on too long. I didnt know if I should try adjusting the floats first, or look for some worn/missing rubber on the needles or seats...

[SqDancerLynn1]

The item you refer to has the jet in the end of it with the
screwdriver slot (it unscrews) IT should have a # on it that
is the jet size. THOSE are not the stock carbs they are 29mm
smothbores

[Anonymous]

The item you refer to has the jet in the end of it with the
screwdriver slot (it unscrews) IT should have a # on it that
is the jet size. THOSE are not the stock carbs they are 29mm
smothbores

Well, after Keith asking about having the #3 vaccum port plugged off, I noticed that I had 2 things blocked off. After thinkin about it for a bit, I decided that those were actually vents. I took those off, and now it does seem to run better, not great but better, and will run with the choke off too. I guess the bowls were getting pressurized or something...

I adjusted the floats a bit, but still have avery slight leak. I need to know if there should be some rubber on the needles or seats or not...

I'll take the carbs back off and unscrew that end and see what # it has...

It still spits and sputters a bit, but might be rideable...

This bike was last ridden in 1999, so now that its runnin, i dont think its too bad for 6 years. I think someone used it as a dragbike before. I think its been lowered, and appears to have an aftermarket swingarm. And if those are 29mm smoothbores, then that adds to the race thought more too...

So are 29mm smoothbores good on a bike like this?

[Anonymous]

OK. so I am a n idiot...LoL..the mains are 120's...does that sound about right....


What is the 216 anyway...?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The 261 0-6 is the needle jet size. Yes, those are the coveted 29mm smoothbores. To avoid fuel starvation, the two float bowl vent lines should be removed when running pod filters. Leave the nipples open, as you have them now.
I don't have enough experience with the 29's to tell you if the main jets are right. You have to test the performance at full throttle to decide that.
Same for any jet needle adjustments, except you test at 1/3 throttle.
From the video you made, I would suspect dirty carbs and ignition/timing needs to be set. The holes in the jets are small, sitting for 6 years is gauranteed varnished/dirty carbs. Probably needs new o-rings throughout.
Try a website regarding the carb jetting for those 29's. You may try Vance and Hines too, they used to sell "pre-jetted" 29's for the GS1000. If they help you with jetting info, please share it here. Or try Sudco, in Los Angeles. They sell some 29 parts.
Clean and rebuild the carbs.
Set the timing, check the spark quality.
Synch the carbs with a vacuum tool.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the help so far guys...I am thinking about getting the Morgan Carbtune II too to sych the carbs, instead of paying someone $100 to do it.


Where are the ports on the 29mm's to hook up the vaccum gauges to?



Also, I made a thread about making a petcock, you guys tell me what you think...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=34735

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Buying the vacuum tool and doing the job yourself is smart.
The vacuum levels really need to be set so the difference between the highest and lowest level is about 1/2". Most mechanics won't get them that close.
Look at the head intakes, where the rubber manifolds mount. See the small Allen head screw with the copper washer under it at about 4:00 (right side) and 7:00 (left side). Remove those and thread in the vacuum tool adapter tubes. DON"T over tighten them when you re-install. A few pounds torque is good.

[Anonymous]

Buying the vacuum tool and doing the job yourself is smart.
The vacuum levels really need to be set so the difference between the highest and lowest level is about 1/2". Most mechanics won't get them that close.
Look at the head intakes, where the rubber manifolds mount. See the small Allen head screw with the copper washer under it at about 4:00 (right side) and 7:00 (left side). Remove those and thread in the vacuum tool adapter tubes. DON"T over tighten them when you re-install. A few pounds torque is good.

The carbtune tool looks like a good tool. One place quoted me $150 to synch them, while one place only wanted $60. Where do you make the adjustments?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Buying the vacuum tool and doing the job yourself is smart.
The vacuum levels really need to be set so the difference between the highest and lowest level is about 1/2". Most mechanics won't get them that close.
Look at the head intakes, where the rubber manifolds mount. See the small Allen head screw with the copper washer under it at about 4:00 (right side) and 7:00 (left side). Remove those and thread in the vacuum tool adapter tubes. DON"T over tighten them when you re-install. A few pounds torque is good.

The carbtune tool looks like a good tool. One place quoted me $150 to synch them, while one place only wanted $60. Where do you make the adjustments?

See my last post at Hoomgars topic about his 1000 re-jet and asking for me. I explain the bench/vacuum synch.

[Hoomgar]

I just ordered the carbtune II. It's a worthy investment. Like you say, until you pay someone to do it right you have bought the tool!

I ordered the whole kit with the colortune as well. I want it spot on.

http://www.ekmpowershop.com/ekmps/shops/carbtune/index.asp?function=DISPLAYPRODUCT&productid=26

But just the carbtune if that's all you want is only 99.40 USD.

[Anonymous]

So I rode itarounda bit today, its not too bad. The idle likes to hang a bit from time to time, then other times it doesnt really want to idle. I have the screws at 1 5/8 turns like Keith suggested. What will happen if I turn them either way? Left (open) does what, right (close) does what?

It still likes to backfire a little, and fire into the carbs a few times too, but is rideable...

[KEITH KRAUSE]

So I rode itarounda bit today, its not too bad. The idle likes to hang a bit from time to time, then other times it doesnt really want to idle. I have the screws at 1 5/8 turns like Keith suggested. What will happen if I turn them either way? Left (open) does what, right (close) does what?

It still likes to backfire a little, and fire into the carbs a few times too, but is rideable...

So if you're making progress, what work have you done to it?
To adjust the side air screws using the highest rpm method, the bike must idle decent to begin with. Yours sounds too rough. But you can try to see if it helps. With the screws where they are, put the bike on the centerstand and warm it up. The idle should be set to around 1,100 rpm's to begin. Starting with any carb, slowly turn the screw in either direction until the rpm's max. Fine tune the screw. Now adjust the idle back to 1,100 rpm's with the idle adjuster knob. Repeat with the next carb.. Do all four the same way.
Turning this screw in, decreases the air available, or richens the mixture . Turning them out, increases the air available, or leans the mixture.

[Anonymous]

Well I decided that I wanted to try to check the points gaps, but when I took the ignition cover off, it was not as described in the book.

This is what the book showed...






This is what mine actually looked like...










Is this some sort of aftermarket ignition or what? I dont see anywhere to adjust anything. If not aftermarket, is it just off a newer bike?

I take it that turningthe plate in the first pic to the left or right retards and and advances the timing, correct?

I am just trying to go through everything. I know its missing some power, I really need to balance the carbs still...

[philofab]

Hi, I have a 79 GS 1000 too, your carbs look to be off of a Kawasaki KZ 1000, stock carbs have the idle adjust on the bottom. I'm running the same carbs.

Sounds like you may be having an ignition problem.

Check all your wiring to your coils. My bike has points and one of my points sets has a divit burned in. It runs crappy and wont fire 1 & 4 correctly.

Your ignition is newer CDI or aftermarket (Dyna or Boyer). I don't recognise which.

Are 29MM Smoothbores good? I have been looking into different carbs, mine allways leak out the overflow randomly, and no amount of cleaning will fix it. I also don't like the fact they have no idle/air on the sides. Just pilot/fuel.