first time clutch replacement question....help

[Anonymous]

owner of a perfect 1983 GS850G with only 20k on the odometer in need of help with a clutch replacement....

I have a couple of questions before I start to remove the clutch that is slipping in every gear to an extreme degree....

I have the Clymer Manual (M376) and there are a couple of things that I am still not clear about and am looking for help.

On page 102 (diagram 17) (diagram 18)shows that you need to make a tool or have an impact wrench to remove the nut securing the sleeve hub.

I have an air impact wrench, however not seeing exactly what the part looks like do I need a special socket? I guess I am not understanding exactly what I need to get this nut off. Can anyone help with this?

Also, to secure enough time to remove the old clutch, do to limited space where I am, is this a 2-3 hour job or a 6-8 hour job?

Thanks in advance.....

Also if anyone has the special tool or socket that I need and is willing to sell or rent it to me I would be interested in hearing about this as well.

[Anonymous]

clutch replacment

Hello Not sure If the GS 850 and 81 GS1100E are close but if they are it will take u longer to make the gasket than it does to change the clutch.
First drain the oil, then remove the cluch cable. Then remove the bolts securing the cluch cover. gently tap on the case as u remove it ( use a rubber hammer and dont pry it off) if it is difficult to remove move the cable arm on the cover and it will come off. Then remove the bolts and springs holding the pressure plate and remove the pressure plate.
Next make a tool useing a metal coathanger. cut a 10 inch peice and bend the end to make a small hook 1/4 inch and use that tool to remove the friction and metal plates. Once all of the plate hae been removed replace the plates. TIP u do not need to replace the metal plates unless they r damaged or warped. Lay them on a piece of glass to check if they are flat. Once u have this done just put it all back together in the reverse procedure.REMEMBER TO PUT THE FRICTION PLATE IN FIRST WITH A FRICTION PLATE BEING LAST BEFORE THE PRESSURE PLATE goes on.
The prcedure should not take more than 2 hrs It took me only 1 hr for the GS but I have done this before so it cut down my time.
Good luck , Archie

[duaneage]

Lean the bike against a a wall and you won't need to change the oil. It runs to the other side of the engine. I leaned mine, waited 10 minutes and not a single drop came out. Don't let any gasket material get in the engine, catch it all with a rag. you will have to carefully scrap off the gasket without damaging the aluminum. That took me about 45 minutes because it was on for 20 years and I was being VERY careful.

Check the height of all the springs, I used a spring-loaded wood clamp to compare the strength of each spring to make sure they were still the same. Replace any that are short and weak, they are only about 1.50 each from the dealer ( but you may need to order them). The bolts are special heatreated types that cannot be substituted safely.

I bought a gasket for 12 dollars from the dealer, I traced it onto gasket paper I bought for 6 dollars and used a knife to cut a gasket. I can make many more from the sheet I bought in case I have to go in again,

I put a used clutch in mine to get through the summer, I measured each plate and friction disk and made sure they were at least 2.8 mm, on my bike the range is 2.7 - 2.9. My old clutch plates were all at 2.7 and it would break loose at high loads.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Your bike must have had a hard life? What KIND of oil are you using?? My 79GS850 has almost 40K & it still has the original clutch. When you get the parts order a new set of springs and replace the clutch bolts

[sharpy]

Clutch

As above but, if the clutch is slipping that bad you should also remove the sump and wash that out as well to remove all the crap that has been floating around in there as well as the oil and filter. Measure the plates and springs to see if any are worn and replace them as nessary. The steel plates have a flat side and a rounded side and replace them as they came out, not one side one way then the other side the other way. If you are fussy tape a large piece of wet & dry 600 grade emery paper to a piece of glass spray with WD40 or simular and "rough" up the steel plates by sanding them on the paper. If the plates need changing soak them in fresh oil over-nite then put the in.

[ptm]

The special tool is used to hold the clutch hub so you can loosen the nut that holds it on the shaft. An alternative (I assume this will work with a shaft drive) is to put it in gear and put a board (2x2 will do) through the rear wheel so it pushes against the swing arm as you loosen the nut. That will keep the hub from turning. Be careful of any wires or brake lines or hoses.

On my 78 the nut is a 32 mm, so you don't need a 'special' socket, just a really big one.

[Anonymous]

Actually, I have a follow-on clutch question:

I have an 85 GS700, and the issue is that the clutch doesn't dis-engage. There's no slipping; rather, pulling the clutch won't dis-engage the gears.

Is this a matter of cable adjustment or replacement (the cable is likely the original, and well stretched out) or could there be issues with springs/plates, etc., such that I should replace.

Advice and experience is appreciated,

Dennis

dennis.ruffing@ssaglobal.com

[Matt K]

#1: the tool is often called a "grabbit" it's basically a wierd looking pair of vice grips that grips the clutch basket, allowing you to hold it still while you loosen the nut. I assume there's some sort of lock washer (usually one with a bent tab), so make sure that if it's there, you un-bend the tab first. Usually you can just wedge a piece of wood or something into the works, keeping the basket from turning, but be careful not to use something hard that might damage the aluminum bits.

#2: the clutch disengaging thing is almost definitely NOT a clutch problem. Probably a cable issue. Try adjusting the cable length, or, at worst, picking up a new cable. Also check to make sure that the arm that clutch cablepulls hasn't come loose or stripped out or something like that.

[Anonymous]

To answer the question on what Oil I use....I use regular 10w40. I have put 1000 miles on since the snow stopped here and it ran like a champ. Then on the way home from work the other day......slip slip slip.

In any case I am taking the words of wisdom and will open this clutch up Sunday PM.

More good advise is certainly welcome!!!!!!!! I am not a big fan of surprises.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Actually, I have a follow-on clutch question:

I have an 85 GS700, and the issue is that the clutch doesn't dis-engage. There's no slipping; rather, pulling the clutch won't dis-engage the gears.

Is this a matter of cable adjustment or replacement (the cable is likely the original, and well stretched out) or could there be issues with springs/plates, etc., such that I should replace.

Advice and experience is appreciated,

Dennis

dennis.ruffing@ssaglobal.com

It's probably more of an adjustment of the push rod clearence
on the cover where the cable goes into the engine. The push rod should be adjusted before you try to adjust the cable

[Anonymous]

So based on all of this information, I am thinking that I don't need to remove all the way back to the oil sump.

If I remove the pressure plate/springs/clutch plates and replace I should be in good shape??

[Anonymous]

Wanted to squeeze u guys for a little more clutch info myself, if ya'll would care to respond. My 81 GS750L slips the clutch "sometimes" almost always when it's cold until it's been run about 10 to 15 minutes. Once warmed up it dosn't seem to do it as often, but I can still get it to slip a little if I get on it hard in a higher gear (3rd at like 30 mph) not always but now and again often enough to have me worried. Replaced the clutch discs and springs last year, inspected the basket and steels (were all fine) since the steels were true and not blued or burnt in any way could the slipage be from a. maybe putting the steels in in the wrong way or b. maybe the stealership gave me weak springs? Any ideas?

[Anonymous]

krabysniper:

I may not have as much expertise as some of the members on this forum, but it would make perfect sense to me to check out the cable for excessive wear. I had a bike (Not Suzuki) that did the same thing and I was about to replace the clutch assembly but then found it to be a 'slightly' sticky cable and was stretched a bit... Replced that instead and Bingo! was like new. I say this because of your complaint that it only slips 'sometimes' when you go hard in a higher gear, but not all the time. Springs I don't think would be moody if they were weak to start with. The slippage would be fairly consistent, and unless you make a habit of riding with the clutch only half out to burn down the discs (you couldn't, hand would get sore) then a clutch replacement last year shouldn't be acting like this. Another thing to check, because after all, the simplest things are the easiest to forget sometimes, is the adjustment on the lever itself; you're adjustment may not be allowing full engagement. And for the running for 15 mins and problem stopping: I don't know for sure if discs expand too much under heat. Would make sense if they did just a teeny bit 'cause everything expands and contracts under hot/cold respectively.

Hope that helps you the same it did myself,

Scott

[Anonymous]

Thank u scott, yes I had found out that the clutch adjustment was way to tight due to the cable being not original to the bike and different handlebars also. Some fine tuning and lubing of the cable eliminated the problem.