AAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!!!!! Clutch Problems

[Anonymous]

Last March, the chain slipped off the rear sprocket on my '77 GS750 and managed to mangle the left side sprocket cover, stretch the clutch cable and generally ruin my day. I've since replaced the clutch cable, the forward sprocket cover and tightened up the chain tension. When I first got it all put back together, I had a stiff clutch lever (guitar player's left hand strength made it possible to use the clutch) but it slipped in 5th gear whenever I got a little heavy on the throttle. I've since tried adjusting the free-play on the clutch according to my Haynes manual. At first I couldn't get the clutch to engage, now after further messing around I can't get the clutch to disengage.

What's the deal? The Haynes manual doesn't go into great detail about how the clutch cable works with the pushrod to dis/engage the clutch. Am I needing to do more than just mess with the free-play or what? I'm new to digging too far into motorcycles so be gentle with me. Should I be looking into a Clutch rebuild kit like on www.crc2onlinecatalog.com? Is it time to put Leela to rest?

I'm not interested in a long drawn out restoration project. Leela needs more work beyond this for sure, but at this point I'm just interested in having a bike to ride to and from work as well as for fun on weekends.

Based on NADA's online value assessment, I'd value Leela as she is at around $200-300. Once she's all fixed up she could be worth up to $1000. I have neither the time or financial resources to do a complete restoration on her. I just need something to ride.

Can I with simple(?) adjustments to the clutch (how do I do that) get her back on the road?

 

[Anonymous]

Just a thought but I am rebuilding my clutch with salvage parts from www.cycle-salvage.com , you may want to contact them. They are in CT and do ship.

 

[Anonymous]

Had similar problems with the clutch lever being heavy and the clutch slipping and sticking. Mr haynes did not tell me about the mechanism that moves the clutch push rod. (not sure what it's called)

If you remove the clutch adjustment cover there's 3 screws that hold the clutch lifting lever to the sprocket casing. Take the 3 screws out to access the lifting mechanism. It's a pivoting plate. Mine was full of muck and grit. Clean it and grease it.
Then adjust the clutch with the Haynes manual. Start by setting the adjustment on the lifting lever then the clutch cable.

 

[Anonymous]

hmmm

hmmm

LOUI WROTE:

Then adjust the clutch with the Haynes manual.

I think you better off using a screw driver or a "traditional" tool of some sort! :lol:

Anthony

 

[Anonymous]

Can someone give me some details about how the clutch lifting lever interacts with the pushrod? Pictures would be great!

 

[Hoomgar]

Where are you at Jeff? How close are you to me?

 

[Anonymous]

Bump!

 

[joeadams]

I'll try. I'm going off of my knowledge and experience with my 1983 GS750 so if any of this doens't apply, I apologize.

If the clutch was OK before the incedent I don't think that it would have problems now but I'm not sure I understand the incedent exactly. But it seems to me that the chain coming off would suddenly decrease the load on the clutch and I think that would really damage it, unlike suddenly increasing the load on it.

I would guess that you need to adjust the play in your cable. Try using vice grips on the clutch actuator arm (top right side of the motor.) I believe it rotates inward toward the centerline of the bike. Use the vice grips or whatever you want to use to put it in the fully disenaged position and then see if it's still acting up. If its not, then you'll know its your cable adjustment. If it still acts up I would think it might be an internal problem and the cable still might be out of adjustment. You might need someone to help you with this one to prevent any accidents.

As for the cable adjustment, the clutch handle should be tight. That is, you should not be able to push it away from the bars and when you pull on it you should immediatly feel resistance. If either of these things are true, then your cable is too loose and pulling the clutch handle all the way in may not completely disengage the clutch. So it may end up being engaged or partially engaged.

Conversly if the handle is tight in the right position it is possible that the cable is too tight. This would keep the clutch only partially engaged when the handle is out completely and it may make it hard to pull in because the springs are already compressed.

There are two place for adjustment of the clutch cable one is on the engine where the cable connects to the clutch actuator arm and where it connects at the handle. For a new cable they should probably both be tightened in. As the cable stretched you would screw them out a bit and it would tighten back up. If that doesn't make sense, just say, and I'll try again.

Also, if its kinda chilly out and you have a high viscosity oil you will notice that until it gets warmed up a bit that there is quite a bit of drag on the clutch even when fully disengaged. I put 20w-50 in my bike last change and I've noticed this problem.

Edit: Also, I live in harrisburg, so I'm pretty close and I'm usually looking for a reason to get out of my apt during the week. So if you need hand next week, I can probably stop by in the evening.