3 questions after carb rebuild

[duaneage]

Cut a slot in them with a dremel tool if you can. I used a SMALL vice grip that I found at pep boys to get mine off. And 10 mm hex head bolts replaced them. Torqued to 6lb/foot.
Replacing the o-rings was the best thing I did to my bike. Throttle response and torque went WAY up.

[Anonymous]

I just had my carbs rebuilt on the gs750t. The intake boots are not part of the engine just rubber seals that go between carb and engine. These boots are new and my bike does this. Idles perfectly between 1100 and 1500 and then when I ride for 20 minute idle goes up to 2000.

[Anonymous]

in my search I found

well in my on going search, cease and fix on this carb rebuild and Idle problem I found two things.
I bought new boots between the carb and air cleaner, to which I have installed. But when I went to get the o-rings for the manifold boots the suzuki parts manager said he may have sold me the wrong boots.
I have a glt model and he said he looked up the boots for a t model (which there is a $14.00 difference between what I got and should have gotten. I paid 10.98 per boot and they said I should have had the ones for $24.95 per boot). Now I have the old boots I took off and they look exactly like the boots I have so what is the difference that would make them so much more? The reason I ask is since I have installed these boots they will not give me credit towards the new one, even though its their fault and not mine.

2) I found a small leak in the breather gasket and cam gasket (so I have to replace them). Can this cause this problem with hard start and vering idle also?

thanks cj

[Jethro]

What's this propane test you talked about?

Keith, he must be talking about an intake leak test- some people use water mist to check for a loss of combustion, some use flammable materials to check for an increase in idle. I use WD40 or carb cleaner.

The reason I piped up about it is becasue I had an air leak that this test didn't work on. I had cracked boots, but no amount of water, WD40 or carb cleaner would show a change in idle. I still changed out the boots and the bike started, idled and ran much better.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

That's right. I always try to mention in my posts that the water mist test, or whatever is used, doesn't always expose the leak. But the high idle problem is about 98% of the time an intake leak in the manifold area. About 1.5% of the time, it's a sticking slide/throttle valve. The other 0.5% is gremlins.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

cj, don't know what good this is, but if you gave the parts man the correct model info and he sold you the wrong manifiolds, you should get credit for them and apply that to the correct/more expensive ones. I would insist on talking to the owner or at least the manager. Bad business practice.
You say the new/incorrect manifolds look identical to the old ones? Any pic's?
Do you see a p/n on them?
Did you buy the new o-rings?
Did you say the old manifolds are cracked or in poor condition or did you just replace them for the heck of it?
I wonder if the old manifolds are still good and you can re-install them with the new o-rings??

[Anonymous]

manifold bootss

they are not the manifold boots they are the carb to airbox boots.
the old ones are as hard as a rock and I have to cut one to get it out of the box as it was so hard. but the one I had that was so so, is the same length and diameter as the new ones. That is why I do not know what makes the boots that are $14 different.

[Poot]

I had a really hard time getting the intake-manifold boots off of my 850. GOt the outer 2 off with an impact driver, but, the inner ones were a real %#*&.


What I did to get them off (without drilling), was firstly to use penetrating oil, and tap the screws right after to make sure the oil can set into the threads. I did this a bunch of times, and after stripping 1 screw trying to take it out, and nearly the other , i stopped using a screwdriver.


To get the inner boots off:

Take a Vise-Grip, and tighten it onto the head of the screw, so that it requires a LOT of force to clamp down. I couldnt close mine with my hands, and had to use channel locks on the vise-grip to get it to close. It slipped off once or twice, and smoke appeared~!!!


once i had it on REALLY tight, i twisted, and voila, they came out. if you are especially wary about breaking the heads of the screws off, you can try the last part, while having a screwdriver in the screw applying pressure.



between when I started, and finished with the boots, 2 weeks had passed it was wintertime though


good luck!



poot

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: manifold bootss

they are not the manifold boots they are the carb to airbox boots.

OK. Sorry. It sounds like you needed the airbox to carb boots, but to repair the high idle problem, etc, you need to focus on the manifolds or any o-rings in them, or check for loose clamps.
Looking back on your previous posts, you say the manifolds are too difficult to remove. Try tightening the clamps around the manifolds first. If the high idle once warmed up continues, you have to get the manifolds off.

[AOD]

Carbs are all built the same, for the same model. There's no way one set just happens to idle at 500-600 rpm's higher than the other set, unless they've been set up wrong. If the rpm increase you have isn't carb related, then you have an intake leak or the smaller chance that a slide is sticking with the heat increase. The VM's do that once in awhile.
If your bike idles at 1,500 cold and 2,000 warmed up, you have one of the above problems. No Suzuki model in the 70's has a factory set/recommended idle of 1,500 rpm's. Nor the CV equipped bikes later. The correct idle speed for our bikes is 900-1,100 rpm's. If your idle is set at 1,500, you'll use more gas, wear out your brakes sooner, it's harder on the clutch and gearbox too. It also makes your bike tend to overheat at stops in traffic.
A correctly jetted/tuned bike will start up and idle about 1,000 rpm's, and then pick up about 100 rpm's once warmed up with no other outside influence (elevation, humidity...). Some may pick up a little more, maybe to 1,200.
What's this propane test you talked about?

Keith, the propane test is what Jethro spoke of. You use a propane torch set to a 'low' setting and run it near the intake boots to check for leaks. I did not perform this test (though I was in the garage...hiding behind something ) I used the WD40 method myself. Again, my bike has no intake boot leaks that are detectable with that method.

My comment about the idle was that it followed the CARBS not the bike. Both bikes with the SAME SET of carbs would idle 500-600 rpm higher when warmed up. It could be a sticking slide but the carbs have been gone through many times and rebuilt (not the slides though) this winter by me.

As for the idle, I choose to run an idle of 2000 RPM when warm. I ran it this way when I was in Chicagoland traffic and still use it when I ride here in the open NC roads. The bike will idle lower, 1000-1200 as the manual says, if I wanted but I've had no issues with the higher idle. I don't sit in traffic (waste more gas), brake wear =! idle speed, and no heat issues with the synthetic oil (no oil cooler either). I can see how it may not be as good to drop it into gear when it's spinning 800 RPM faster, but as for the clutch, I'm almost 1000% positive you rev your bike over 2000 RPM when you roll of the clutch to move in traffic. I just have to rev less...

~Adam

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Oh well. To each their own I guess. :?
I still say deliberately setting a 2,000 rpm idle is the wrong thing to do. But it's your bike.

[bwringer]

This might help, if you haven't seen it before:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

And this:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

Drill those nasty old phillips head screws out and replace them with pretty new stainless steel allen head screws pronto.

The inner two get a lot hotter, so their o-rings are definitely in far worse shape than the outer two.

A stock GS850 should start instantly in any weather and idle fine without the choke after a very short time (10 - 20 seconds, depending on temps). In other words, anything less than buttery perfection means there's a problem.

[Anonymous]

stainless allen screws

where do i find them? are they better than just plain stainless bolts, hex heads. I will get them out one way or the other. thanks cj

[Poot]

for the intake-manifold boots, go to home-depot or something , and look in the small bins of screws+bolts, etc.


I used the socket head screws. and make sure to bring the screws with you to get an exact match.




poot