Can you change fork oil w/o taking forks off????

[Anonymous]

I wanted to change my fork oil, Can I just loosen the drains and pump old oil out??? Then do I just pour the new stuff in the top??? Also if I wanted to add the PVC spacer to firm them up a bit is this just in the top over the springs also???? Sorry if this sounds stupid but the forks kind of intimidate me right now (lots of parts on the diagram when they are apart)...

[Jethro]

Oh yeah. You don't have to remove the forks, just open the drain at the bottom and let it drain out. Make sure the front end is supported before pulling the top caps off, or you might lose an eye when the preload adjuster comes loose! A PVC spacer will work fine for adding some more preload. Yes, just put it on top of the spring, you're just trying to preload the spring a little more.

[Anonymous]

I wanted to change my fork oil, Can I just loosen the drains and pump old oil out???

That would be step 1. Then fill and flush with kerosene, Varsol, diesel, etc. to get the gunk out. You will be amazed at the sludge that has accumulated over time. When you put in your solvent, stroke the the forks up and down by hand a few times to slosh things around and dislodge the junk at the bottom.

Then do I just pour the new stuff in the top???

Yup. The levels specified in the manual are set when holding the fork vertical, though, so you need to tinker a bit to get it right. It is more important to have both legs the same than be exactly at the manual levels.

Also if I wanted to add the PVC spacer to firm them up a bit is this just in the top over the springs also????

Yes. It is best to add a washer over the spring then the PVC, but it is not essential.

Sorry if this sounds stupid but the forks kind of intimidate me right now (lots of parts on the diagram when they are apart)

They look spooky, but once you have had one apart, you will see how simple they really are.

How are your seals? Bushings? If things have not been apart for many years it would be worthwhile changing out all of these to give your fork a fresh start this year. Maybe not necessary, but a real nice bonus when you get riding a lot. When I changed the bushings in my 1100 this spring, they were completely worn out. I was glad I did it after seeing the shape they were in.


Mark

[Anonymous]

The seals are good. I just wanted to firm these up a bit only need to run these for about a month. I actually have a complete set of new(er) forks that I am sending away for awhile to be rebuilt and lowered by 3 inches. To complement the streetfighter look I am going for.

[Anonymous]

HIJACK....

HIJACK....
but its on topic so i don't feel too guilty.
Can you replace the fork seals with the forks on the bike?
I was under the ipression I had to remove them from the bike to do it?

Thanks,
Anthony

[Anonymous]

Can you replace the fork seals with the forks on the bike?
I was under the ipression I had to remove them from the bike to do it?

No, yes. You can MAYBE replace them without disassembling the forks, but that is a bitch to do sometimes. For the time it takes, I will pull the forks apart every time. I also like having a look inside to see if everything looks OK. But that's just me being paranoid and picky...

Mark

[Anonymous]

So when I pull the air valve caps off does the spring shoot out???? With a search there seems top be mutiple perceptions. Have the front wheel unweighted??? or Have the front wheel up but supported by something???

[Anonymous]

So when I pull the air valve caps off does the spring shoot out????

Maybe. It depends on how much preload there is on the springs. I would definitely elevate the front end so that the forks are fully extended and the front wheel in the air. On my 1100 there was maybe 10mm of preload and hardly any force on the cap. Be sure to press downwards on the cap as you remove it to prevent the spring force from stripping the last couple of threads out if it is loaded at all. I would bet it won't be a problem, but better safe than sorry.

Have the front wheel up but supported by something???

Not necessary. If you use your centerstand or jackstands or whatever to get the front end in the air it will be fine. The front wheel can't go anywhere with the forks assembled, spring or no.

Mark

[duaneage]

So when I pull the air valve caps off does the spring shoot out???? With a search there seems top be mutiple perceptions. Have the front wheel unweighted??? or Have the front wheel up but supported by something???

If you plan to pull the guts from the bottom you'lll need a fast impact wrench and a 8mm socket down there. Leave the cap on the spring on top to hold them in place while you work the 8mm bolt at the bottom. Suzuki of course has a special tool but not worth buying unless your a shop.

[stiksave]

OK Jethro,

On the 1100. What diameter pvc and how long? Sounds like a great idea. I'd like to try it after changing my fork oil.

Thanks,
Chris

PS: I bought 30w fork oil from the dealer, before looking at my Haynes. It says to use 15w. Do I need to take it back and exchange it?

[Anonymous]

Is there a limit to the length of pvc you can use??? I know with in reason so no one put like 3meters. I am thinking 2-3 inches ????

[stiksave]

?

On the 83 GS110E, it has the anti-dive and direct underneath axle setup. Where do you drain the fork oil from? Remove the antidive thingy, or the little phillips head screw next to it. The screw looks like it may take forever.

Thanks,
Chris

[duaneage]

OK Jethro,

On the 1100. What diameter pvc and how long? Sounds like a great idea. I'd like to try it after changing my fork oil.

Thanks,
Chris

PS: I bought 30w fork oil from the dealer, before looking at my Haynes. It says to use 15w. Do I need to take it back and exchange it?

Unles you want really stiff forks i would use the 15w. I did and it works for me

[luc8421]

On the 83 GS110E, it has the anti-dive and direct underneath axle setup. Where do you drain the fork oil from? Remove the antidive thingy, or the little phillips head screw next to it. The screw looks like it may take forever.

Your drain screw, like mine I believe, is directly above the axle. take the two nuts off the buttom axle studs. I usually remove the axle and wheel first, but your choice. with those four nuts removed, take the semi-circle retaining collar off, along with the cylindrical axle spacer. then you'll see the hole with the drain plug in it.

hope that helps.

P.S. If I were you, and if you're not looking to keep the stock look, I'd simplify your braking system and forks by removing the anti-dive system completely. PM me if you'd like more instructions/dimensions.

[stiksave]

OK, thanks. Let's see.
1) Take the oil back and get 15w fork oil.
2)Pull the front wheel to get at the drain plugs
3)Figure out the diameter of pvc needed after openening the top of fork leg ( just looking for a hint on length to add).

One more ? Isn't all automotive oil anti foaming? Otherwise any oil pumped in an air enviroment would turn into a smoothie. (crankcase,power steering,etc) Just a thought invoked by paying 8 bucks for a 1ltr bottle of official fork oil.

Thanks,
Chris