Exhaust studs snapped off - gotta get 'em out!!

[Anonymous]

Hi, I've got a /78 GS750EC onto which I have put a 4 into 1 pipe but snapped off a couple of the studs in the process. I've tried penetrating oil, heat, vice grips (ugh...sorry...desperation) and an 'Easy out' (which promptly snapped off in one of the studs!). Luckily, there is still about 1/4 inch of each stud remaining outside. I have heard of using a hack saw to cut a straight edge groove into the stud to accept a slot screw driver, but don't have much faith in this. I'd rather not pay someone to do my work, so....any ideas how I could get these S.O.B's out?

BNE :x

[Anonymous]

if an easy out didn't work I would suggest the slot.. Can you run the motor?? If so that should help . Run the motor with the exhaust on for about 5-10 minutes to heat up the block, then try backing the studs out.

the only other thing I can think of is drilling through the stud and inserting a cotter pin or nail to give you something to lock a pait of channel lock liers on to, and muscle them out.. you may also be able to use a hammer with something(nail or steel rod through the studs to tap them loose..

muscle and time are about the only answer if an easy out didn't do the trick...

[Anonymous]

Man I got the same problem, but on the other side. I tried to unscrew the intake boots because they had cracks in them. One side came off.
The other side now has rounded screw heads and I tried pliers with screw driver at same time and they still wouldn't budge. I am sorry to hear about your situation I really can relate to the frustration!

I would suggest that you first try that slot idea with the heat expanding the metal engine. IF that don't work I would let the pro's handle it. Drilling is risky.

I ended up just Jb welding all the cracks on the intake boots!

[Anonymous]

I've fixed a few of these by drilling, tapping and inserting a Helicoil. Pep Boys has the kits.
Axel

[Anonymous]

Maybe a wrench would work.

If you make two sides flat until they are the right size to fit a wrench they may turn out. I would think if the easy out didn't work that they are siezed in hard enough that none of these ideas will work. All the hack sawing, drilling, and other stuff may just mess up the head. I'll bet an understanding shop wouldn't charge you an arm and a leg. They would also be able to get them out in a short amount of time.

[Anonymous]

The same thing happened to me, and at that point I had never done much more than a chain adjustment to my bike. I just drilled the stuck bolt out and retapped the hole. It took about an hour but it turned out great. The only hard part is keeping the drill bit dead centre, which is easy if you centre punch first.
Good Luck

[Jethro]

For future reference, always use an impact wrench. This little $15 tool in combination with a hammer will work miracles and has never let me down.

[Anonymous]

Before you butcher them any more, take them to an exhaust shop. My buddy can heat the area surrounding the stud and usually take them out with vice grips. If you butcher them till there is nothing left, this won't work. And a propane torch won't do it, it needs to be acetelyene..

[first timer]

I agree the impact skrew driver is the best tool you can have to work on the bike, it even works great as a screw driver or the bit on the end of a socket wrench. The bit it designed to bite into the bolt and hold. Also try useng a dremel tool and cuting a flat head groove into the screw and then using the impact screw driver on that, thats worked for me in the past. just cover the any openings from flying metal dust

[mcycle-nut]

Remember to put Nev-R-Seize or some such goo on the new bolts to prevent this from happening again! This exhaust bolt thing is VERY common. 8)

[Anonymous]

Exhaust studs......

Wow! Thanks to all for the suggestions. I did have an impact driver but the god of springs decided to toast that one. Get a new one I will. I'm not usually one to let others work on my toys or even my cars, but I suppose there does come a time when that's the best thing to do. My main problem, really is the fact that these studs are on the number 3 cylinder right behind the frame, so the only way to get anything to them now is to pull the motor. That's not such a big deal, I just don't want to drop it on my foot! Gee, I wonder if my 12 year old would help? HA! Not without bribery.

Anyhow, thanks again to everyone. Hopefully I'll be able to pass on something myself sometime.

BNE

[Anonymous]

I'vc never tried it myself, but according to Clymer, you can remove the head and the cylinders from the motor without removing the motor from the bike.

[Anonymous]

Exhaust Studs

Hi Brian,

I imagine I could get the head out without tearing out the motor, but I've committed myself to tearing the whole bike down for a major restoration (or as much as I can afford!) this winter. There's a reason I haven't posted a picture of my ride here......it's pretty rough and ugly right now.

My wife says "Why would you spend money on that wreck!?!". Well, she just can't see the hidden beauty, and of course she has never ridden it!

Anyhow, thanks. Maybe I will post a 'before picture' here and follow up next year with the 'after image'...............BNE

[Anonymous]

Stud removal

You mentioned in your 1st post that you used penetrating oil. FWIW, I've found a surprising difference in the performance of different penetrating oils. IMHO PB Blaster is one of the best on the market. Previously, I was impressed with Kroil, but PB Blaster is even better. I've been told that Sea Foam makes a penetrating oil thats even better than PB.
I've been amazed at how some previously frozen studs break loose after being soaked in penetrating oil for a few days (if need be).
Anyway, thats my 2 cents worth. Good luck!

[Anonymous]

Stud removal

Thanks Al. Your 2 cents goes along way when added with the rest!

Brian