manifold boots came off but found something, please help

[Hoomgar]

Also make sure you have a good fuel filter inline. If you have any sediment in your tank it will be at the bottom where you do not see it. You hook it back up and immediately you get dirt particles back into your carbs and those float needles is the first place they go!

I say this because this happened to me. Twice. I now use a fuel filter. Just something else to check.

[Anonymous]

fuel filter

yes i did do that. Since I could not replace the one in the tank. I put in a in-line. Yes I did get a lot of goo out of the carbs when I rebuilt them. I am surprised she ran at all. Now she wants to give me grief and she is all new again. lol

[earlfor]

Re: can't find why its leaking

If its leaking out of the boot into the air cleaner, I suspect the petcock is leaking. There would be no leak into the air cleaner even if the float needle valve was leaking because there would be no flow in the first place.

To verify the petcock is leaking, you can disconnect the fuel line from it to the carbs at the petcock. Put a short spare piece of line on the petcock and the open end into a cup. Leave it overnight and see whats in the cup the next day.

Earl

ok, 1st its leaking out the boot into the air cleaner.
I will try taping on the carb bowl to see if the float stuck when putting carb on.

2nd: It is a total rebuild except for the jet(?) directly under the main jet.
When I took the carb off to see why it was leaking I took the needle seat out and put on another new o-ring and used air to blow it out to make sure nothing got in there. then put the needle back in and then the float.
I measured the float in case I put a finger on it and took it out of line when putting it back together but it is in its tolerance level.

I will try this taping on the bowl when I get home. Makes sense that it could have gotten stuck while putting it back on.

cj

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: can't find why its leaking

If its leaking out of the boot into the air cleaner, I suspect the petcock is leaking. There would be no leak into the air cleaner even if the float needle valve was leaking because there would be no flow in the first place.

Earl, it could be the petcock as you say and I test for a leaking petcock just like you said, but don't rule out the float assembly/float valve still leaking. I've seen many bikes with a good petcock leak at #1 carb. They can leak because after shut off, there's enough fuel in the fuel line and fuel passages to the float chambers to overflow the bowl. Carb #1 being the lowest, is the most common one to leak. They sometimes leak for no apparent reason.
Now if the leak just continues beyond the amount that can be in the fuel line/passages, then it's a leaking petcock.

[alan]

I'm aking careful notes here since this is going to be my Saturday. 3rd time's a charm I hope. This will be the full strip and dip treatment though.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

cj, if you take the float and shake it, can you hear/feel/see any fuel? Just want to be sure the float isn't ruptured. You can submerge it in fuel and test. Any bubbles when it's held under?
If you've checked everything (including the petcock leak test) and you're at a dead end, try swapping the entire float assemblies of carb #1 with carb #4. This means the float, the float pin, float valve and its own seat (always keep together as a set.)
If you have a short screwdriver for the bowl screws, you can do this with the carbs on the bike. Of course, depending on your float/float valve design, you need decent finger dexterity to re-install the float valve and get the float and its pin back on. If you try this, put down a large towel so parts don't get lost.
Swapping parts has worked before when there's no apparent reason for a fuel leak. A float can move more smoothly just because it's moved.
You know carb #4 parts are fine, so #1 carb should stop leaking. If #4 starts leaking, then you know you have something wrong with those part(s).

[first timer]

i think we need to get a carb cleaning and setup competion going, we can have it at the national meeting ....... keith and earl you play nice.

cj i think they are showing off for you. lol.

take it easy,

-ryan

[Hoomgar]

i think we need to get a carb cleaning and setup competion going, we can have it at the national meeting ....... keith and earl you play nice.

cj i think they are showing off for you. lol.

take it easy,

-ryan

I'm up for it

[Anonymous]

well were up and running finally

Well guys showing off or not all the excellant advice paid off. Yes and also a block of wood and trusty hammer and some cursing also helped.

Now just one more thing. I had and awful time getting it started as the "so called mechanic had the idol stop adjustment way out there. Guess he had to do that since I had a intake leak (he did not pick up on) to keep her running. Well after and hour and a half turning little by little she finally started running on her own with throttle response (had problem could get it to start but as soon as I hit the trottle the slightest she died).

Well this morning I decided to take her to work (if she'd start) and WooHoo the first time in 3 years she started on a day that the temp was below 55 without a shot of starting fluid.
I set the idle last night to about 1100 rpms (higher than I had normally had it). It was late and I warmed her up but maybe not long enough.

I went about 2 1/2 miles stopped for gas and idle was the same. the travelled another 40 miles and when I stopped at the stop sign (first stop since I left gas station) she was at 2000 rpms. Now when I got to work I back the idle stop until it was at 1000 rpms. Now I will not get to try again until my lunch. But could the change be that I had not warmed it up enough before when I set it? Other than that she runs top notch for a bike with 55,000 with no work on her but the carb and new valve cover gasket and breather gasket.

Just so you know I did replace the o-rings in the intake boots and I made sure the clamps were tight when i got to work.

thanks for all the help in getting my ride running again.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

cj, with the idle turned back down, I'm guessing that when you try to re-start at lunchtime, the bike won't start easily, if at all. Higher outside temps will help some.
The classic example of an intake leak between the carb and motor, is this: the bike idles around 1,000 rpm's at cold start up. After the motor is completely warmed up (hot) the idle is much higher (such as 2,000 rpm's.) You lower the idle by turning down the adjuster knob. It idles fine again at 1,000. You turn off the bike and it completely cools. The next time you try to start, the idle adjuster must go back to where it was at the initial cold start. This cycle goes on and on.
What are your mixture screws set at?

[Anonymous]

mixtures setting

they are set @ 3 turns

[earlfor]

Re: can't find why its leaking

When the petcock is closed, it will not matter if there is fuel in the line or not. Its the same as sucking on a straw drinking a coke. You can place your finger over the end of a strawfull of coke and it will not drain out.
If the petcock truly does shut off fuel flow and assuming the fuel line is not cracked enabling air to get in, there isnt any way fuel can flow.

Youre right, the #1 float bowl is lowest and most prone to leakage if the bowl is overfilled. BUT....the bowl cannot overfill if the petcock works correctly.

Earl

If its leaking out of the boot into the air cleaner, I suspect the petcock is leaking. There would be no leak into the air cleaner even if the float needle valve was leaking because there would be no flow in the first place.

Earl, it could be the petcock as you say and I test for a leaking petcock just like you said, but don't rule out the float assembly/float valve still leaking. I've seen many bikes with a good petcock leak at #1 carb. They can leak because after shut off, there's enough fuel in the fuel line and fuel passages to the float chambers to overflow the bowl. Carb #1 being the lowest, is the most common one to leak. They sometimes leak for no apparent reason.
Now if the leak just continues beyond the amount that can be in the fuel line/passages, then it's a leaking petcock.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: can't find why its leaking

When the petcock is closed, it will not matter if there is fuel in the line or not. Its the same as sucking on a straw drinking a coke. You can place your finger over the end of a strawfull of coke and it will not drain out.
If the petcock truly does shut off fuel flow and assuming the fuel line is not cracked enabling air to get in, there isnt any way fuel can flow.

Youre right, the #1 float bowl is lowest and most prone to leakage if the bowl is overfilled. BUT....the bowl cannot overfill if the petcock works correctly.

Earl

If its leaking out of the boot into the air cleaner, I suspect the petcock is leaking. There would be no leak into the air cleaner even if the float needle valve was leaking because there would be no flow in the first place.

Earl, it could be the petcock as you say and I test for a leaking petcock just like you said, but don't rule out the float assembly/float valve still leaking. I've seen many bikes with a good petcock leak at #1 carb. They can leak because after shut off, there's enough fuel in the fuel line and fuel passages to the float chambers to overflow the bowl. Carb #1 being the lowest, is the most common one to leak. They sometimes leak for no apparent reason.
Now if the leak just continues beyond the amount that can be in the fuel line/passages, then it's a leaking petcock.

Well then Earl, I guess everything I'm saying is just BS then, right?
Ever had something happen right before your eyes, say as many times as you have fingers and toes? In this case, I'm not basing anything on theories or whatever, I'm describing actual events.
Many times I've had a bike leaking fuel into the airbox or out the bowl overflow line. This same bike has a petcock that's been tested and it's good. The bike has a clear fuel line installed. The fuel is turned on and you can see the fuel line fill completely, not even a bubble. If the petcock is vacuum operated, it's returned to ON. If non-vacuum, it's turned to OFF. I'm watching what happens or monitoring the fuel level overnight. It drops until there's nothing in the line and if enough time is allowed, nothing in the passages I'm sure. Fuel starts collecting in drops at the boot or sometimes comes out the bowl overflow line.
If #1 float assembly is not completely sealing, the fuel in the line and passages will overflow out that carb.
I've also found in some cases, that a bike that's leaking while on the sidestand, will not leak, or leaks MUCH less, when it's on the centerstand. So obviously, just a small tilt can defeat the float valve from sealing.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: mixtures setting

they are set @ 3 turns

OK. I was wondering if they could have been closed and forgotten.
Is the idle still rising under the conditions I described before?

[earlfor]

Re: can't find why its leaking

[quote="KEITH KRAUSE"]
Well then Earl, I guess everything I'm saying is just BS then, right?
Hardly Keith. :-)

................................. Did you ever look right at something and note what was obviously wrong and then find out that the obvious thing you saw, was a case of mistaken observation. :-) I have done that. :-)




Many times I've had a bike leaking fuel into the airbox or out the bowl overflow line. This same bike has a petcock that's been tested and it's good. The bike has a clear fuel line installed. The fuel is turned on and you can see the fuel line fill completely, not even a bubble. If the petcock is vacuum operated, it's returned to ON. If non-vacuum, it's turned to OFF. I'm watching what happens or monitoring the fuel level overnight. It drops until there's nothing in the line and if enough time is allowed, nothing in the passages I'm sure. Fuel starts collecting in drops at the boot or sometimes comes out the bowl overflow line.
...................................... What I am trying to say Keith is that if you have a clear fuel line and you can see the fuel level drop with the petcock shut off, then the petcock is leaking. It is physically impossible for fuel to flow through a tube that only has one end open. If the petcock is off, one end is effectively closed. So, no, the petcock is not "good".

Earl