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1985 GS750EF starter button dead- will short start.

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    1985 GS750EF starter button dead- will short start.

    Batt 11.95V, Batt Running 13.6V, Hot @ starter button 11.3V, Hot @ sulinoid?main bolts 11.9V, IGN fuse 11.2V

    2mv at each small wire connection that feed into main bolts.

    I think the problem may be the main juction that the starter button wires feed into. The sulinoid? It has two 1/4 -20 bolts w/ heavy guage wire. And two activation leads that feed into it to activate.

    The kill switch is fine. The starter button when shorted back side does nothing. The main heavy bolts when shorted w/ screw driver will start the bike. What do you call that component? Do you think it needs a new one?

    Paul -Vancouver BC---

    #2
    Re: 1985 GS750EF starter button dead- will short start.

    methinks you need that battery charged, or replaced! I've heared that the bike won't even turn below a certain voltage. Either way, your battery is below what I think is required to start.

    Originally posted by paul ed
    Batt 11.95V, Batt Running 13.6V, Hot @ starter button 11.3V, Hot @ sulinoid?main bolts 11.9V, IGN fuse 11.2V

    2mv at each small wire connection that feed into main bolts.

    I think the problem may be the main juction that the starter button wires feed into. The sulinoid? It has two 1/4 -20 bolts w/ heavy guage wire. And two activation leads that feed into it to activate.

    The kill switch is fine. The starter button when shorted back side does nothing. The main heavy bolts when shorted w/ screw driver will start the bike. What do you call that component? Do you think it needs a new one?

    Paul -Vancouver BC---

    Comment


      #3
      Re: 1985 GS750EF starter button dead- will short start.

      If the starter button does not work, but you can engage the starter and start the bike by jumping the two large terminals on the solenoid, then the battery voltage is sufficient. the problem is either in the starter button contacts or at the solenoid. To find which it is, connect a continuity test light to the small wire lead on the solenoid with the wire unplugged from the solenoid. (that is the wire coming from the starter button which activates the solenoid) Press the tip of the continuity probe to a ground.
      Turn on the ignition and press the starter button. The continuity light should light when the starter button is pressed. To check the activation wire on the solenoid, with the solenoid still disconnected from the starter button wire, connect a jumper wire from the solenoid wire to the battery positive momentarily. When you make the connection, you should hear the solenoid click and the starter will turn over if the solenoid is working correctly. If it is a faulty solenoid, go to Lowes and buy a garden tractor solenoid. (about $13) I have one on each of my bikes and they are a direct match up and bolt in.

      Earl

      Originally posted by paul ed
      Batt 11.95V, Batt Running 13.6V, Hot @ starter button 11.3V, Hot @ sulinoid?main bolts 11.9V, IGN fuse 11.2V

      2mv at each small wire connection that feed into main bolts.

      I think the problem may be the main juction that the starter button wires feed into. The sulinoid? It has two 1/4 -20 bolts w/ heavy guage wire. And two activation leads that feed into it to activate.

      The kill switch is fine. The starter button when shorted back side does nothing. The main heavy bolts when shorted w/ screw driver will start the bike. What do you call that component? Do you think it needs a new one?

      Paul -Vancouver BC---
      Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

      I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

      Comment


        #4
        Don't forget to check the clutch switch

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Earl, we don't have Lowes (or at least in Ontario) up in Canada and I would like purchase that solenoid. Can you give a bit of specs on that thing? I will see if some of the hardware stores around here carry it.

          Thanks!

          Comment


            #6
            much thanks

            Just to close this off w/ happy ending. I was not aware of clutch switch. Taped clutch lever engaged and proceeded to trouble shoot w/ DMMeter. Shorted direct to ign switch and worked back from there. Problem was in corroded connector to clutch switch. Ign. button cleaned/lubed and reinstalled. Bike is fine now.

            Side note: I have now convinced dumb assed owner not to park out in elements. Or at least cover it. Clean and flush gas tank of setiment and rust. Thankfully he reported back to me that he DID change his freakin oil and filter. I'm not used to seeing bikes in such poor shape. What a mess. I used to race modern 750s production. and now restore/ride Indians.

            Maybe another bike saved from the scrap heap? Much thanks for the help.
            These are good solid engines. I was really impressed and learn a few things about the ways of Suzuki in the process. Did fork bushings. Owners should learn not to be so cheap. Problem number one! And change oil regularly.

            Much thanks for assistance.

            Comment


              #7
              Patrick- try Princess Auto.

              Comment


                #8
                Yeah, I went to a small engine repair shop and picked up a universal unit.

                When I got home, for kicks, I decided to re-run my ground wire and then BAM, the stock relay worked right away.

                Oh well... I least I have a spare relay now

                Comment

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