82 GS650G Valve Shim Adjustmet

[92G]

I checked by valve clearances, and 1 of them looks to be a little tight. The smallest feeler gauge I have os 0.0015", and I can't get it in there. A 0.001" may work, but I don't know. Is it worth messing with that valve shim?

I was thinking about pulling a couple of the others to see if I can find a combination that works.

Also, some of the head bolt nuts are kind of rusted, and I'm not sure if I'm really doing anything with them when I put the torque wrench on them. I.e., is the bolt really torqued right, or is the rust giving me an apparent tightness? I was thinking about backing them off, and re-torquing them. Good idea or bad?

Thanks,

Terry

[Anonymous]

Re: 82 GS650G Valve Shim Adjustmet

I checked by valve clearances, and 1 of them looks to be a little tight. The smallest feeler gauge I have os 0.0015", and I can't get it in there. A 0.001" may work, but I don't know. Is it worth messing with that valve shim?

I was thinking about pulling a couple of the others to see if I can find a combination that works.

Also, some of the head bolt nuts are kind of rusted, and I'm not sure if I'm really doing anything with them when I put the torque wrench on them. I.e., is the bolt really torqued right, or is the rust giving me an apparent tightness? I was thinking about backing them off, and re-torquing them. Good idea or bad?

Thanks,

If the engine is cold and you can't get the .0015" in there I'd change out the shim. You don't want 'em too tight. If they were a hair loose it'd be different. Maybe you can get hold of a .03mm or a .0001" guage and try again but if a .0015" won't go in....??? Lots of times you can get 'em adjusted by swapping shims around.
MY OPINION on the head retorque--I'd leave it alone. If you are gonna do it loosen the nuts up in sequence and then retorque. Do any retorquing BEFORE checking/adjusting the valves
Just my .02. ED

Terry

[SqDancerLynn1]

Can you freely turn the tappet bucket?? if so you will probably be ok But should plan on changing it soon

[92G]

Re: 82 GS650G Valve Shim Adjustmet

If the engine is cold and you can't get the .0015" in there I'd change out the shim. You don't want 'em too tight. If they were a hair loose it'd be different. Maybe you can get hold of a .03mm or a .0001" guage and try again but if a .0015" won't go in....??? Lots of times you can get 'em adjusted by swapping shims around.

I think I'm going to seee if I can fine one to swamp with.

MY OPINION on the head retorque--I'd leave it alone. If you are gonna do it loosen the nuts up in sequence and then retorque. Do any retorquing BEFORE checking/adjusting the valves
Just my .02. ED

I think I'm gonna do it. I found this advice from Keith Krausse a while back

Just a quick tip, mostly for the "newbies".
When you check the torque on your bolts, ALWAYS loosen them just a little bit first, then torque them down. After some time, bolts can become "stuck" and if you just torque them the way they are you will get a false high setting. Also, if there is corrosion or rust, you need to clean them up to get an accurate setting. Badly corroded or rusted bolts/hardware may need replacing to avoid breaking under torque. And buy a quality torque wrench. The cheap "pointer" kinds are a waste of money. Buy one that "clicks", the twist and lock kind.
A WORD OF CAUTION: when checking the torque on HEAD bolts/nuts, loosen them just a bit, "cracking" them loose. You don't want to cause leaks by loosening them too much. Then re-torque.

It made sense to me at the time, and it still does.

Thanks,

Terry

[jpaul]

When I had my 78 GS750 I had one valve that had tightened up too much to get an accurate reading. What I did to get an accurate measurement was to have one shim ground down to thinner than any offered by Suzuki. This allowed me to get an accurate reading and saved time trying to find the correct size needed.