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**chuckycheese** · 05-10-2005, 07:37 PM

Sorry

Life gets complicated after you turn 18.....I think the same thing happens when you modify your carburator/air flow system. I hope you are able to figure it out but from my experience with a bunch of different bikes....it may be very difficult to get it to run as well as it did before it was modified.

**duaneage** · 05-10-2005, 10:50 PM

First question is are they running out of gas?

Run the bike on the PRI setting first and see if the petcock is shutting off when you open the throttle hard. The petcock can be rebuilt if this is the problem.

Do you have a restricted fuel filter or furel line? How about the screen inside the tank.

Float levels OK? not sure ? The float levels set the amount of fuel in the main well and if that gets exhausted the bike leans out pretty quick.

All of these ideas are easy and cheap compared to rejetting and tuning.

**Detman101** · 05-11-2005, 07:15 AM

Re: problem with carbs

Originally posted by jeff

I have a set of gs 1150 carbs and can not get them right they act great at an idle or when you hit it hard but if you just do a cruse at 45,50,or 60 they act like they are running out of gas, they have a stage three jet kit in them and I have moved the neddles up and down but cant get it out of them any body ever have this problem or have any ideas

Hmmm...stage 3 kit.
Are you using pod filters and a 4-into-1 exhaust?

If not then you're probably running extra extra rich.

**Anonymous** · 05-11-2005, 09:22 AM

Dynajet stage 3 jet needles have far less taper and are skinnier than the OEM needles. You might just be running rich and bogging. I would pop the stock jet needles back in and see if this corrected the problem after first checking to see if you aren't running out of gas. If your service fuel level is low (gas in bowl is a tad low), and you have an inline filter that is dirty or you are otherwise obstructed (crud in tank?), it will also act this way. In general, though, the Stage 3 kit isn't really all that well thought out. They first determine a main jet by a dyno run. With wide open throttle and looking for max horsepower, they often come up with a too large main jet or one that is on the edge of being too large. They don't have a bunch of jet needle designs. They use a few to fill all the kits for all the bikes they sell kits for. These needles have distinctively thin shapes with no taper which allow mucho more gas by them and since there is no needle jet in the kit, the new jet needle is not matched to the needle jet and will generally make your bike a gas hog and will have rich/flat spots. They also don't provide a larger pilot jet which makes tuning for the idle circuit and mid-range rely too much on the jet needle they give you... try the stock jet needles... If your jetting is typical of an 1150, with pipes/pods, I would try about 135 main jets and 47.5 pilot jets and the stock jet needle. You might be just a tad lean in the idle to mid-range transition and might want to shim your jet needles but I would wait till I tried this setup out.

**duaneage** · 05-11-2005, 03:59 PM

I think your going to have to give us much more information about what your running. Pods, exhaust, cams, etc so that we all can put together a picture of what is going on.

Frankly, going back to stock airbox, jetting and exhaust is not a bad idea. the 1100 is a powerful machine as it is, it does not need much help to haul.

Once you loose the rabbit it is hard to hunt. If you acquired the bike modified contact the PO and see what he did.

**Anonymous** · 05-11-2005, 08:56 PM

carbs

ok this thing is a 70 inch ex prostock chassis with beasley full gsxr body work
tank under seat electric fuel pump with a regulator,pods and a star spyder pipe, I did a bike like this before with the same fuel system and
CV carbs and it worked great but on this one I used the DJ 3 kit and have had no luck with the kit

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problem with carbs

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