Advice On Electrical Connectors

[Anonymous]

I am about to install some GSXR coils on my 1100 and I need to cut the existing pigtails off the old coils and attach some blade connectors to mate to the GSXR coils. Not really a problem, but the only connectors I have found are the crimp-on type and I am a bit concerned about their longevity in a hot, dirty, high vibration environment like a bike. Should I tin the wire ends before crimping the connectors on? Find solder type connectors? Use shrink tubes over the crimp connection? Any other secrets/advice for an electrical newbie?


Mark

[earlfor]

Re: Advice On Electrical Connectors

No, I use insulated crimp on spade connectors on my coil connections.
Soldered connections can break with vibration since the wire becomes solid due to the solder. Crimp connectors are more durable in this respect.

Earl

I am about to install some GSXR coils on my 1100 and I need to cut the existing pigtails off the old coils and attach some blade connectors to mate to the GSXR coils. Not really a problem, but the only connectors I have found are the crimp-on type and I am a bit concerned about their longevity in a hot, dirty, high vibration environment like a bike. Should I tin the wire ends before crimping the connectors on? Find solder type connectors? Use shrink tubes over the crimp connection? Any other secrets/advice for an electrical newbie?


Mark

[vstan905]

The best connection is to solder. Second is crimp-ons. I never not tin the ends when using crimp-ons. Crimp-ons work fine if you do them right. If you are worried about water infiltration, get some Liquid Tape in the electrical department and smear it on the connector to make it water tight. I have used crimp-ons for years without a problem.

[gtsg01]

The best connection is to solder. Second is crimp-ons. I never not tin the ends when using crimp-ons. Crimp-ons work fine if you do them right. If you are worried about water infiltration, get some Liquid Tape in the electrical department and smear it on the connector to make it water tight. I have used crimp-ons for years without a problem.

In days gone by, solder WAS the preferred method of attaching wires to connectors.

In the early 80's, the aviation industry went to Crimp On pins and terminals. The Mil Standards for the various types of crimp on devices forbid the pre-soldering of wires prior to crimping. The solder will not compress properly when the terminal is crimped and causes the wire to fatigue and break..

If you are not using the correct tool, then soldering may be better than a poor crimp.

[vstan905]

Oops, I just saw what I wrote. Mixed up my words there. What I mean to say was, I never tin the ends and you should not tin the ends. gtsg01 is right, the tinned ends won't compress properly and will break eventually. As I said, I only use crimp-ons. Another thing gtsg01 is right about, don't buy a cheapy tool if you want to make a good crimp.

[Anonymous]

No, I use insulated crimp on spade connectors on my coil connections.
Soldered connections can break with vibration since the wire becomes solid due to the solder. Crimp connectors are more durable in this respect.

Go figure. Good to know I was going to do it right without even knowing it!

In the early 80's, the aviation industry went to Crimp On pins and terminals. The Mil Standards for the various types of crimp on devices forbid the pre-soldering of wires prior to crimping. The solder will not compress properly when the terminal is crimped and causes the wire to fatigue and break..

If you are not using the correct tool, then soldering may be better than a poor crimp.

More good news. Easier is better for me... I do have the proper cimping tool, so the connection will be set correctly and not just smashed flat with pliers.

Thanks for all of the replies.


Mark

[bwringer]

What would be an example of a good crimp tool? All the expensive ones I've found in many different tool stores and departments make the same lame crimp as the $3.99 special.

Personally, I solder lightly and use two layers of adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing as strain relief.

I've never seen a "field-crimped" connection that didn't quickly corrode, even with the proper tool. The factory crimps seem to do OK, but the connections in spade and bullet connectors always seem to have problems.

[duaneage]

Believe it or not crimped connectors have a LOT of pressure holding them together ( on the order of a ton or more due to the leverage and small area) and are used in the worst environments you could imagine. The best crimp tools are made by AMP and turn the round connector into a square crimp. These tools are also 150.00 and not worth it for the small job.

I use a Klein crimper that has a long handle and thick steel jaws

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611781715&ccitem=

Home Depot sells them for about 10.00, Grainger is overpriced.

This does an excellent job and will last years. You must match the proper wire gauge to the terminal, use Red for 18-22 and Blue for 14-18Ga.

The coils are in a safe dry spot under the tank, the heat of the engine keeps them dry and rain does not present much of a problem

[Anonymous]

I use a Klein crimper that has a long handle and thick steel jaws

I have a similar crimping tool that has worked fine for me for years.


Thanks to all who replied, the job will be done this weekend and then I can report on the new coils and what they did for the bike (if anything).


Mark

[Anonymous]

What are some opinions about using dilectrical grease on the connections, including the wire and crimp, in an effort to prevent, or at least stave off, corrosion buildup?

I am preparing to do that with most of my connections this weekend after cleaning any corrosion off them as needed.

[vstan905]

It certainly wouldn't hurt.

[bwringer]

Thanks for the link to the Klein crimper! That certainly does look like a far better tool than the usual $3 crimper made of crappy sheet metal.

I didn't see anything like this at Lowe's or Menard's, but now that I know what to look for, I'll take a look at Home Depot.

What are some good brands of terminals to look for, and where can I find them? Even the ones at the local electrical supply house are junk -- very thin and weak.

The best ones I've found so far are branded 3M, but I've only been able to find them at Wal*Mart for some reason (talk about the last place you'd expect to find high quality anything...). They're much thicker and stronger than any others, and have thick shiny chrome-like plating that seems to resist corrosion a lot better.