GS750 - Clutch Pin? - (Problem Solved)

[DarkDevil]

Hey, I've taken my bike out for the spring thaw and i'm going through everything, replacing some stuff and cleaning up the rest. I put a new engine cover on it, on the left side over the sproket. On the cover theres a lever that when pulled by the clutch cable, extends out towards the engine, and on the engine theres a small hole surrounded by a circular rubber peice. I'm pretty sure something is suppose to be inside that lever that pokes through that hole to disengage the clutch. I have nothing...

Can someone correct me if i'm wrong?
and..
can someone suggest something that could be used instead of ordering a replacement pin? perhaps a proven method.

I'll take some pictures of what i'm talking about if it'll help.

edit:
some pictures.
Clutch Lever
Clutch Lever Side
Clutch Hole

[DarkDevil]

I've determined it's the Clutch Push Rod... proper term... So.. heres the problem... Last spring it broke on me and I was on the road, i brought it to a shop and in order to get me out on the road again that day they had to make a new one. So they took a drill bit and put it in half and threw that in there. It worked fine. When I got to where I was going my bike broke down again and my cousin, who stored the bike in his shed over the winter, helped me take a look at it. We look out the drill bit and layed it aside. Now he thinks he might've thrown it away because.. its a freakin drill bit. I need to make a new one of these. Does anyone know the length and diameter of one of these? I read somewhere that it is 6mm. But.. I dunno if its a universal thing amoung all gs's.

Let me know if anyone has any ideas... sizes... etc..

thanks.

[Anonymous]

They are less than 5 bucks from what I remember, order two.

Steve

[DarkDevil]

I called up one shop... we have two suzuki dealers... a cheap one and an expensive one. The cheap one was closed, and the expensive one quoted me 40 dollars. I'm starting to think he misunderstood me and thought I was ordering the entire clutch lever. But, I'm gonna drop into the cheaper place tomorrow and see what they might have.

Just to give you an idea of cheap place vs. expensive place. When I was new to the area I went to the expensive place for a replacement mirror. They quoted me like.. 40 or 50 dollars. The cheap place said, after I descovered their store, the stock one will be 30 and two replacement aftermarket ones will be a little less than 30. And guess which one gets all the business... The expensive place... it's always the way..

So yeah... I'll check out the store tomorrow, see what they might have... but if someone here could give me the dimensions I might be able to make one up until my order comes in. Around here it usually takes a week for parts to come in.

[Billy Ricks]

What year is your bike? Someone with the same year model can help. Instead of a drill bit I'd use steel rod available at Home Depot and others.

[DarkDevil]

The year... yea.. its. umm.. 86.. *turns quickly* don't hit. Any ideas though? I can't imagine it would be a big difference...

'86 GS750ES to be exact...

[Billy Ricks]

My '85 700 uses the same part. If I get time tomorrow I'll pull mine out and measure for you.

[DarkDevil]

Thank you very much.
Any idea what the inside of that hole is suppose to look like? Right now it looks like there might be something broke off in there. It's almost like a off angle peice of metal...
like this..


Thats what I'd imagine a sideshot of it would look like.. or maybe whatevers in there is suppose to be there... I thought I read something about there being a ball bearing involved somewhere... I dunno.. if it is a broken peice of metal I could just get some tweasers and get it out, or, if nessesary, pop it out from the other side.

[Billy Ricks]

Looks as if your rod is broken off. I'd try cleaning up the end of the rod with a Q-tip and solvent and then attempt to hot glue something to the end of it to extract it.

[SqDancerLynn1]

the only 750ES I could find was an 83 model pn 23111-31301 $9.45

[DarkDevil]

Hmmm. Yeah that would make sense... Did i mention there was a temp pin/rod put in? it was a drill bit. wtf were those guys thinking? I actually found my old Clutch Rod... The other broken one... it's rediculous.

Bent Rod
Two Pieces

Story behind the broken rod... I was driving my bike to another province (because we were moving) and it was about an hour into a 6 hour drive. My chain was brandnew, but i didn't replace the sprokets. I didn't have time to replace them.. took to long for the parts to come in. anyway.. an hour into the ride my sprokets ate the brandnew chain. I was going 120+ km/hr and the chain flew forward into the engine casing and destroyed the pin, the engine cover, chipped a post off the engine block, took a good 6 - 8 inches off my chain guard, and chewed off a good hunk of metal that i can't identify. Pictures are below. Needless to say... I'll always replace the sprockets when i replace the chain... and... to be safe.. always replace the filter when I replace the oil...

Engine Cover Inside
Engine Cover Outside
Engine Housing/Block Chip
Chain Cover
Undentified

Thanks for your help Billy. I can measure my broken pin, with a bit of creative measurement. Look like you won't have to take yours apart tomorrow. And thanks for the tip on the superglue to get the broken rod/drillbit out.

[Anonymous]

I think the mystery piece is used to keep the seals from popping out as well as hold the stator wiring close to the engine. You are very lucky you didn't crash or destroy your engine...have you checked your rear sprocket carrier for markings? I had a chain fall off too and you can see where it grabbed onto the carrier in an attempt to lock up the rear wheel. I suspect the *cheap* repair done on your bike saved you a few nights in a hotel so don't be too cross with your mechanics. When I was living in Ottawa it took 2 days for one of those shafts to arrive for my 400E. Thankfully it was just a spare I had ordered along with some other stuff. The more annoying part of the situation is that it took 2 months for the rear sprocket to show up...this led to the chain falling off part of the story.

Cheers, Steve

[DarkDevil]

Alright, So i went at it today with some needle nose plyers, and also used some very small screw drivers to try to grab onto the ends. The problem is that it's not a solid peice, as my picture makes it look like, but its a broken on drill bit, for reasons I explained earlier. This is going to make it hard to extract either way... superglue i doubt will work, it's such a small place, and its a drill bit... and none of my other attempts have worked. Is it possible to remove the rubber seal, part 24 here http://tinyurl.com/bhsd3, and replace the same, used seal? If so... how would i do it? I've got to replace the oil anyway.. and i'd assume you'd have to drain the oil first... Any ideas?

[SqDancerLynn1]

If you have a big speaker try and magnitise a small screw/drill by drawing it across the magnate. then try to see if it will come out Other wise You might have to pull the clutch and push it from the other side

[DarkDevil]

I tried something simular to this. I took one of those screw drivers (the small ones used for electronics, eye glass repair, etc..) which was already magnatised.. and I attached a magnet to it which i have (1 inch long, half in wide) Didn't work. It doesn't wanna just slide out because of the sharp parts of the drillbit. There arn't that many of them.. when they cut it to size they used as much of the base as possible.. but theres still enough to grip the sides of the rubber seal... I don't see why i can't just pop the rubber seal off. Can anyone tell me if this is possible or not.

I've considered taking the clutch out.. but... is it really hard to get back in? Will i need to realign anything major? or is it pretty much one solid piece?