So.. is it? and.. do I have to adjust the clutch rod adjuster screw in or out?
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Won't shift down below 4th. Clutch? (now dead battery? arrg)
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DarkDevil
Won't shift down below 4th. Clutch? (now dead battery? arrg)
My GS750ES won't shift down below 4th gear. I've tried adjusting at both ends of the cable, from most loose to tightest and it hasn't helped. I think i might have to adjust the clutch rod adjuster screw inside the sproket cover, but I thought I would check here first to see if that would be the problem.
So.. is it? and.. do I have to adjust the clutch rod adjuster screw in or out?Tags: None
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Anonymous
So.. is it? and.. do I have to adjust the clutch rod adjuster screw in or out?
Mark
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DarkDevil
My bike was working fine before the winter, except for a broken chain, and crapped out sprokets, and broken pushrod. I put her up for the winter at this point and left the repairs for the spring (the bike wasn't being kept at my place over the winter so i couldn't do repairs at the time) So I took her out, put in new oil, added octane boost to the fuel, put in a new clutch push rod, new sproketcover, and new chain and sprokets. I haven't started it up yet because i'm afraid of what might happen if it's like this and I can't get it in neutral to start. I'm bummed...
At one point I had it going in 4th and 5th, displaying perfectly on the panel, and then I tightened.. or loosened something and now its displaying only 2nd, it won't go down to neutral or first, and it sounds like its getting into 3rd, but it won't display... and fuh'gettabout 4th and 5th. Whats wrong with my ride...
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Anonymous
I bet you you have the same problem I had...the rod is out of adjustment. I've never worked on this on the Zuki prior. I eventually figured it out. You will be able to dry shift it. (that proves your forks and gears are ok) and If you put it on the center stand you can see that you still have power to the rear wheel with clutch pulled in. (stopping it with your toe doesnt work).
You need to adjust the pushrod adjust screw until you can just feel it mate with the rod. JUST. Then put it back on the center and try it. Keep two screws in the final drive cover, and do not put the cover on the adjustment nut cover. Try going through the gears again, on the center stand, and see if you still have power to the rear wheel with the clutch pulled in. If not, take it for a careful ride, you will be able to feel if you have to turn it SLIGHTLY further in, go by half turns, it doesn't take alot.
After doing so you will probably want to readjust your cables, so that you have proper clutch freeplay.
I had a post in this section last week about this. You can check my prev posts for it....It was an easy fix, same issie, was during clutch cable replacement in my case, somebody turned the nut on the adjustment and it worked itself loose over a day, and they the clutch would NOT disengaage at all after a day of slow failure. Since you did recent work on the clutch and its parts, that is likely why the sudden change.
Let me know how it works!
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DarkDevil
Well, i've gotten it into neutral, had it on its center stand and tried to start her up and it wouldn't start. You could hear it trying to turn over and then it stops after one attempt. And then i try again and all you can hear is something, maybe the starting engine) whineing on the left side of the bike. Does this sound like a dead battery?
edit: forgot to mention that after holding the start for a few seconds and letting go I could hear a surge of power, and my RPM needle shot up.
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DarkDevil
Before wrapping her up for the night I tried to start her up again and everything sounded normal, except it just wouldn't start. So... I think my battery is just dead.. not enough juice to turn her over maybe..
So heres the problem.. what do i do? I tooked out my battery and brought it in for the night... cold ion batterys don't perform good.. so.. maybe cold bike battery is the same. I checked the cells and they seem normal to me... theres like.. 1 - 2cm of empty space at most on each cell. I'd assume this is normal... or what? Heres a picture. Looks normal to me as far as levels go... I've got a multimeter.. but i have no idea how to use it... it's got 4 places to attach the testing cables to...
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SqDancerLynn1
On your meter the com- is the black ground cable the V/ ohm/ma is the red cable. After you recharge the battery!!!!!!!! put the meter on the 20V DCV scale to check the battery voltage It should read around 12.6 12.8 volts. When the bike is running it should read 14 V if the charging circuit is working
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DarkDevil
Thing is.. I don't have a battery charger... can a charge be aquired, and kept, by hooking it up to a car battery? And how would i go about doing it... I've never boosted a battery.
edit: heres a picture of my multimeter.. i see no dvc scale.. its a very confusing one..
Multimeter
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DarkDevil
Actually... After messing around with it I've figured it out... I'm getting 11.60 out of it... Not good I guess. What should I do? It doesn't appear low. And I have no charger... Would a boost do it? How do i boost?
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SqDancerLynn1
Bottom right COM is the black lead Ground hook to the negitive battery terminal. top right is voltage red wire battery + positive lead. DO not try and charge your battery with the car running It should charge up if you left it connected to the car battery overnight
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DarkDevil
Yeah.. didn't connect it overnight. Didn't think to until it was way to late. (see; 4:00am)
When doing anything with the battery and the car do I hook it into the circut like this..
-----[ - Car Battery + ]------[ - Bike Battery + ]--------
or make a second route.. like this..
| <---wire
|
|------[ - Car Battery + ]-----|--------
|------[ - Bike Battery + ]----|
edit:
btw... thank you lynn. You've been answering quite a few of my questions.
edit2: btw.. it's a 12 volt 14amp @ 10hr rate. Is the reading really suppose to be more than its voltage rating?
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