Really, Really hard to start?

[Anonymous]

I have an 80 GS550E with 23k on it. bike rides great when it's warm but is a real bear to start. With the choke all the way out it just cranks away. Usually kicks over in a minute or so but I'm getting worried.

I've searched the site and have seen a number of posting about cleaning carbs. But usually for bikes that wont start at all. If the bike runs great once started, and kicks right over when warm (like when I stall it at a light) could it still be dirty carbs?

Was at the local shop today and one of the service guys said it could be a valve adjustment. Never saw that on this site before. Again, if it runs great when it's finally warm.....?

What would be the order of things to try from easiest (and cheapest!) to more time consuming (and costly)? Higher octane gas? Plugs? Gas treatment (stp)?

Like I said above, there is no indication of a problem when the bike has been running. Just worried about getting stuck with a bike that won't start. Thanks!

[Anonymous]

Have your tried push starting it?

If it push starts with ease, but won't start with the starter, then I would say that it is electrical. You've may have enough juice to crank, but not enough to crank *and* spark.

Check the battery and for any loose/dirty connections. Have you removed the battery and charged it? If it starts right up after an overnight charge then it is probably electrical.

[Anonymous]

have you pulled the plugs and seen what they look like? sounds like a weak spark to me, Id think if it was a bad battery, you wouldnt be able to turn it over long enough to start it....perhaps the plugs are fouled?

[arveejay]

Sounds like your choke circuits are plugged.

[Anonymous]

hard to start

Thanks for the response. I'll check the battery, could be kinda old. And maybe buy a charger to try the overnight test. Will need one for the winter anyway. "trickle" charger, right?
I haven't thought of the choke mechanism. Because when it does kick over the RPMs drop right down to 1k when I push it back in after a few minutes. But I'll check the Clymer manual I have to see how the choke works.
The plugs are easy. I'll check them or maybe just replace them since their cheap.
This morning, starting cold I tried something different and it worked. Before pulling out the choke I gave the throttle one big turn. then I pulled out the choke all the way and it started immediately. This never happened before. The only difference was the throttle movement. Does this mean I am not getting gas when I start up and I "primed" it by turning the throttle on? I'll try it again at lunch today to seem if I get the same response. Thanks for all of your advise.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Could be anything mentioned above.
The engine needs a richer mixture to start cold. Unless you have other symptoms you haven't mentioned, choke circuit or pilot circuit problem usually. A weak spark can do it too.
You wanted an easy check. Any chance the mixture screws are set too lean? Turn them out an additional turn or so and see if it helps. KEEP A RECORD of any screw adjustments. If you don't like the results, you can simply put them back and try other things.

[Jethro]

My bike was the same way when I got it. Full choke, crank for 30-60 seconds (which, byt the way is murder on your starter motor and clutch- one of the very few weak points of the bulletproof GS) and it would slowly burble to life, then would run fine when warm.

arveejay Posted: Fri May 27, 2005 1:16 am Post subject:

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Sounds like your choke circuits are plugged.

That was the cause of all my starting problems. In the float bowls are small ports that allow fuel to flow to the starter jet, the small brass tube that sits in it's own cavity in the bowl. Make sure the port going to the cavity is free. Use a piece of thin wire to poke through there, then spray some carb cleaner through (watch your eyes- ouch). Then take the wire and make sure the starter jet is free.

After I did this, the bike starts almost the instant I push the starter button.