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I purchased a 85 gs450L, was wondering if other year carbs will fit this bike. I have access to a set of carbs from a 82 gs450T that have been redone completely. Anyone know if these will fit.. the ones on the bike need to be totaly cleaned and redone. I dont have the 200 to do that , and have never cleaned carbs myself. I could get the 450T set for half the price of getting mine cleaned.. Thanks
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the T and the L models are very similar but I am not sure about the carbs in question. I am no expert on the 2 cyl GS bikes. My advices is to find out the size of the opening ie: 29 or 34mm. if that matches up the carbs should work. Also I am not aware of any serious changes between 85 and 82. -
Re: 85 GS450L Carb Help
You can do it! I never did carbs myself either, then I just did it this Spring. Go through the carb cleanup section on this site and get a Clymers (if you don't have one). You will be surprised by the simplicity of these buggers! Good luck!Originally posted by kitzerzComment
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clymer
I picked up the clymer at the library today. It looks frustrating as they do not look like my carbs. They show a air/fuel adjust on the side.. Mine does not have this. I just took the top covers off the carbs, and the needles were stuck and filthy coated. Looked like dried soda.. I cleaned them up real nice. I guess i might as well try to tackle it.. ThanksComment
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In '83 the 450's changed alot IIRC. I don't know about the carbs however. Usually you can count on anything from '80-82 to be the same, anything beyond that you'll have to double check.
I'd clean them, as was said its a lot easier than it sounds. Take your time do them one at a time and if you fubar them (unlikely) you can then investigate swapping them out. A manual or parts schematic will help with the small parts that you forgot where they go or which way.
I did my first set this winter and was suprised at how easy it was. I have done 2 total cleanups now and it gets easier each time. I think the worst part is removing them and putting them back in, you'll have to do that either way.
The air mixture screws are there, they are under caps that you'll have to drill out (VERY carefully). Nice that the Clymer's manual show them, as the Haynes does not.Originally posted by kitzerzComment
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One more question
. I cant locate an air fuel screw anywhere. I did a search on bikebandit and it shows the schematic, but there are only two caps outside the carb. But there are no adjusting screws behind them. The clymer manual is making it more confusing than guessing. I dont want to pop off those plugs and find they needed to stay on.. Any idea if this year had air/fuel adjust outside the body. Thanks againComment
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Air/fuel
Ok, wait a minute. I found two caps with tiny holes in them on the carb body that point to the sky. One on each side. Im thinking these are where the air/fuel mixture screws are. ?????? yes /No Thanks one more timeComment
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Link to my carbs
here is a link that shows my carb assembly. Hope this helps. I cant make light or day of it.Comment
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There definitely will be a cap-covered mixture screw (see other posts on how to drill the cap out - CAREFULLY). A good manual will show where.
It basically boils down to which one you are willing to sacrifice: time or money.
Your 20 year old bike WILL need time put into it.
If you simply don't have the time then you'll have to spend a lot of money on mechanics/shops that may take advantage of your lack of knowledge. Some are honestly not charging you more than the time it took them - but at $60 per hour for labor you're going to spend mountains of money.
Several years ago, I was exactly where you're at now (very little mechanical experience) and I knew I'd rather get the tools I needed for a fraction of the cost and wrench for an hour or two a day till I got it right.
This then enabled me to restore several non-running bikes over the years.
I'm assuming the bike has been sitting for a while and will not start or not run properly once started. If so, here's some advice I've given in the past:
If the bike has been sitting for some time you're going to have many tasks to perform before the bike runs properly.
Here's some advice I gave to somemone:
I've "restored" two GS450 bikes that had been sitting for long periods (mine and a friend's) so I've encountered almost all the typical issues.
You will almost certainly need to do a thorough carb cleaning. The fact that it started up is deceptive. It will not produce smooth, full power till you get those carbs spotless. Your air filter element, air box and all boots that connect to the carbs will have to be checked (any air leaks and all bets are off - see my other posts about this). Your regulator/rectifier and stator should be checked (as described in the garage section of this site). It is also likely that you'll have some loose and/or dirty electrical connections.
Some of the cables may need lubrication and adjustment. Of course, you will need a new battery.
If you've never done any of the above stuff then it will take you a while to learn it all and to acquire the right tools - anywhere between 25 and 60 hours of work - I'm trying to be realistic here based on my own experience. The second time I did a "restore" (on my friend's GS450) it went much, much faster. A Clymer's manual is a must.
If you're in no rush and you enjoy wrenching an hour or two a night then I'd say go for it. If not, you could take it to shop and pay an arm-and-a-leg for them to do half-baked job that you'll have to "finish up" - once again, I'm speaking from personal experience I had with a Honda many years ago.
Here's some more:
You had a running bike before the carb rebuild, so I'd guess your main problem is with the carbs. However, it is possible that other factors are just borderline enough that a slightly worse carb situation would expose those issues as well.
Before tearing the carbs down again, verify all the easy stuff first:
1. Put in brand new plugs - I can't tell you how much time I've wasted just to finally realize that my plugs were so wet and fouled that the bike had no chance of starting. This is especially common after doing carb related stuff.
2. Verify your air filter element and box and boots are all set up properly and that there are NO air leaks.
3. Using those new plugs, check that each one is sparking. If the bike is properly carbureted, even a faily weak spark should ignite the fuel/air mixture.
4. Verify that your petcock is letting fuel through to all carbs.
If all of the above checks out OK and you still can't get her started, then it's time to tear into those carbs again. Make sure your floats aren't leaking (there should be no liquid sloshing around inside of them) - I once overlooked that very important test and spent many hours fiddling with other things till I remebered to check if my floats were leaking. Sure enough, one of them was leaking like a sieve.
Also:
Your starter motor may be really dirty inside, preventing full electrical contact: been-there, done-that.
I would NOT replace any gaskets if the leaks are relatively minor. If they are minor just seal them up with high-temp silicone - worked like a charm on my friend's GS450.
The 1980 GS450 is CDI ignition so there's no timing adjustment necessary.
Of course the gas tank must be drained.
Soaking the carbs in gas is useless, you must disassemble the carbs and clean them meticulously (especially if they've been sitting for two years).
If there are ANY leaks in the exhaust system this WILL affect the bikes performance. The back-pressure of the exhaust system is a critical factor. The CV carbs (on your GS450) are extremely sensitive to improper inlet and outlet pressure.Comment
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pictures i took of the carbs
[img]http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wilsing3/detail?.dir=295a&.dnm=8ce8.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wilsing3/detail?.dir=295a&.dnm=4618.jpg[/img]Comment
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You are correct. Those plugs need to be drilled out. I dirlled a 1/8" hole in mine and inserted a screw and pried them out. Do not drill to deep or set the screws to deep or you will hit the heads of the screws.Ok, wait a minute. I found two caps with tiny holes in them on the carb body that point to the sky. One on each side. Im thinking these are where the air/fuel mixture screws are. ?????? yes /No Thanks one more timeComment
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There's nothing you cannot do with a little patience, a clymers, and the help of the wonderful people on this forum. Goodluck and let us know how it turns out.Comment
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carbs clean
Ok i did it overnight and today. Just got it all back together. It has went from not running to running realy bad. I start it and it takes off to 5000 rpm for 5-10 seconds comes back to idle, and does it again. Play with the choke it dies. I also now found there is no air cleaner (foam) installed.
Will pick that up on monday.. Any ideas anyone.. ???? It does idle nice at some times, but i hit the throttle it either dogs, or takes off. markComment
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Running better
Decided to pop the caps on the air/fuel mixture screws. backed them out , wiped them off, turned them in all the way, then backed them out
1 3/4 turns to start. Running 80% BETTER. Will post as soon as i get the filter. Should be able to fine tune after that.. Thanks all for the help and for the push to do it myself. great job everyone.. I love this site...Comment
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Glad it is working out for you, we all knew you could do it. Here is a good reference for carb help:
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I know it is a lot to read, but once you get to the end of it you will REALLY understand carbs and tuning them. This topic deals with pods and it is my understanding that tuning with a stock airbox is MUCH easier than pods.
Good luck!Comment
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