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ARRRGGH Fork Seals! formerly known as Tire changing question

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    ARRRGGH Fork Seals! formerly known as Tire changing question

    I'm about to take off the front tire on my "80 1100L and nowhere in the manual does it say whether I leave the brake discs on or not when I bring it to the shop for a new tire. The shop is backed up right now but he'll "squeeze" me in right away this morning IF I bring just the front wheel in. This is my first time doing this so maybe it is a silly question to most. It's 0530 now and he opens at 0900 so a rapid response would be appreciated. Thanks.-Pete

    #2
    Your ok to leave them on.

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      #3
      Thank you Paul.

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        #4
        Things were going great, got the tire off and to the shop. Took every thing off the Forks and took them off but I'm having a devil of a time with the hex nut on the bottom of each fork! The seals leak and I have new Factory seals and bushings ready to be installed but the hex nut just spins and spins and spins when I turn on it. The manual states you can do it without the tool but it looks like I need the tool anyway! I'm dealing with the "L" model forks so what the heck am I doing wrong? Do I really need the tool and if I do, could someone post a picture of what it looks like and where I can find one? It's the first time I've tried to do anything by myself and I was having a great time out in the garage. Please help.....Thanks Pete '80 1100L

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          #5
          There are two ways to get the hex nut out.

          Option 1. Use the special tool inside the fork tube to hold the assembly while you loosen the nut at the bottom. You do not have this tool but the dealer does. Maybe they would break it loose for you. I doubt it without a service charge of 1 hour minimum.

          Option 2. Use an air impact wrench with a 8mm socketed tool to take it out. The impact wrench is about 40.00 and the 3/8th drive 8 mm socket is around 5.00. It is also called a butterfly wrench because of the trigger design. The air wrench spins at about 5K rpm and it will back the bolt out because it spins so fast. THe springs MUST be installed to apply pressure on the assembly so that it can be taken off. The spring pressure is substantial and will provide enough friction to loosen the bolt. I have done this myself so I know this procedure works.

          You may want to see what the dealer will charge if you bring in the forks and have them do it. If they don't have to break down the bike and deal with it in the way they might just charge you an hour labor change the seals. Takes about 45 minutes to replace them and you could handle the refilling of the oil yourself, further saving time in the shop.
          1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
          1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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            #6
            Funnily enough I used this method not two hours ago

            A cheap way to do it is to get a length of tubing and stick a 19mm bolt (thats 19mm across the flats of the head BTW) in one end of it with the head protruding. Drill through the tube bolt and place a split pin in the hole or some other method to stop the bolt spinning. Stick the end down the fork tube and you should be able to stop the assembly turning whilst you get the screw out the bottom of the fork.

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              #7
              Do you mean like a T-Handle type tool with the bolt on the bottom of it? thanks pete

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                #8
                holy cow, all this to change a leaking fork seal? I have my new seal but now am NOT looking forward to replacing it. 8O 8O 8O 8O

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by back_online
                  holy cow, all this to change a leaking fork seal? I have my new seal but now am NOT looking forward to replacing it. 8O 8O 8O 8O
                  It's not as bad as it sounds, basically you....

                  put the bike on the centre stand

                  prop the bike up off the front end

                  take the wheel off

                  drop a fork through the trees

                  drain the old fluid

                  remove the preload adjuster

                  remove the spring

                  undo the damper rod screw at the bottom of the forks

                  remove the dust cover

                  slide the stanchion out

                  remove the damper rod

                  remove the circlip over the old oil seal

                  prise off the old seal

                  clean everything up

                  fit the new seal


                  If you know anyone who works in the medical profession (or a vet) get a few large syringes off them they're great for precision measuring forkoil and are a clean way of doing things, and they normally throw away a load that have passed their use by dates.

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