considering doing the valves and getting new rings

[Anonymous]

as a project next winter, my bike runs good and strong but if i get it real hot and shut it down the next time i start it it'll puff a small cloud, nothing major but......


so im thinking about replacing the compression / oil rings and honing up the sleeves, can i do this or should i go ahead and bore it out? are new pistons needed if i just hone? i know how to work on stuff but iv never pulled a engine apart larger then a lawn mower, i know what's inside but...


can i get away with just replacing the rings? iv got to check on some places to do the head, but what's the typical price range? thanks

[Anonymous]

oh yeah gs1100e, 1900 and 83

[Jethro]

I've been doing some research on this myself, as it's about the same treatment I have planned for my 81 1100E. As far as I can gather, it looks like if your engine is reletively healthy you should be able to do nothing more than a hone and new rings. New pistons aren't nessecary. Looks like a machine shop should charge about 60 clams for a quick hone and to mic the cyls so you know what size rings to get. Rings will cost somewhere around $100-200 for the whole bike. As far as the head, you'll have to get a gasket kit anyway, which should come with new valve stem seals. Gasket kit around $100. You'll need a dial gauge to measure runout of the valves, maybe you can borrow one, but if you have to buy it you will spend $100 for a cheap gauge and stand. If any valves need replacing, plan on about $15 per valve, plus $8 per valve stem guide. Do a compression test now and try to get a sense of how healthy the cyls are in comparison to the head. A leak down test is even better.

The problem with doing all this work is that there is probably a lot more that should be done while you are that deep in the motor. New rings are a waste if your crank is slightly twisted or out of balance. And if your wrist pins are worn, you'll be wasting money that way too. I'd have a machinest check how true the head and cyls are as well, plane if nessecary.

The above numbers are just my guesses based on some of my own fact finding, I posted the same question and didn't get any price tags even though I know lots of folks have been through this. Keep in mind there are tons of little things that can come up when you are in there.

[KGB]

Jethro,
As to the prices of valves, you're off.


When I did the motor in the 1000S, they were $42USD each, these were Orient Express stainless steel, the Suzuki stock valves were close to $50 each.

While the head is off, good idea, and cheap, have the cylinder and head decked to make sure they mate up.
I did a 3 angle valve job on mine. Nothing radical, just to get it to breathe.

I was going to do rings and a top end job.......this turned into a comlete motor rebuild, to the tune of about $2500.
the only thing left from the factory were the crank,cams and rods.
I ended up going 20 over stock, with stock compression.

As you've seen it runs very well. This was done about 5 years ago, since then normal oil and filter, tune up and a couple of valve adjustments.
Oh yea, the carbs were jetted over the winter.


So my point being, once you dive in, be prepared to swim in the deep end.

[Anonymous]

Short term smoke on start up usually indicates bad oil seals on the valves
allowing oil to run down the valve stems into the combustion chambers. On start up, this oil burns off and thats that.

[Anonymous]

yeah, maybe i could do a compression test and then if im lucky just replace the valve stem seals? after pulling the valve cover off are they somewhat easy to get to?

[Anonymous]

Heh.

I just posted a thread on oil consumption and Earl said he thinks that the seals can't be replaced w/o removing the head

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=36903

[Anonymous]

yeah for the valve guides, but the valve guide seals?

[Jethro]

You have to take the keepers and springs out anyway to remove and install the seal. The head needs to come off, unless you have a different valve spring compressor than I do. Besides, you have to take the cams out, and after that it's only about 8 bolts for the head to be free. It would be ill advised to do all that work and not check and clean the valves and ports as well as install a new head gasket.

[Anonymous]

thanks! that clears it up.

iv got a good project for next winter, ill just take the engine out and bring it inside my place, easier said then done. how much does this engine weigh? 8O