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83 GS 550ES Not starting hot Please help

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    #1

    83 GS 550ES Not starting hot Please help

    My 550 16v with the 2 barrel carbs is not running right please if anyone can answer any of the following questions I will be more then greatfull

    1 To do a compression check were can i get the right tool how should I do it.

    2. I have an open airbox k&n, and 4into 1 pipe as far as the carbs I've shimed the needles .050" up and I've turned the mix screws out 1 turn and i've uped the jets 5 numbers in muniki (97.5to 102.5). New manifold o ring seals and clamps. This is what it does :: no start when HOT/ thottle response is slugish worse below 3k/ backfires when I release throttle after revin up/ at low rpm if I give it alittle throttle it goes up then slowly sinks back down.

    3. Will the carbs flood back into the airbox if they are left on PRIME

    PLEASE HELP ME out here i've spent countless hours trying to nail this prob down.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Sound like a rich low circuit problem.

    Are you using a jet kit? If not, then its guesswork and many carb removal scenerios. A jet kit will give all baseline setting and take out most of the guess work.

    Either way sounds like its running rich. Try making small changes to the mixture screws and pilot circuit. Only change one thing at a time and take notes. Good Luck, Ed.

    1983 GS750ED
    2005 GSF1200SZ

    Comment

      #3
      if someone has a conversion chart for dynojet to mikuni jet numbers I'll give you the info I have...

      I'm running pods, and a vance and hines 4 into 1...
      ALL INFO ACCORDING TO THE DYNO JET STAGE 3 KIT>

      mix screws out only 1 turn.

      the outer cylinder mains are 114's the inner two cylinders are 112's

      the pilots are stock.

      float level is supposed to be stock as well at .81 of an inch...

      if you want I can make a copy of the specs and post it... mind you the numbers on the jets are going to be different because DynoJet has thier own numbering system...


      Also as another side note... mine isn't running quite right either... idles bad if at all and anything under 3Krpm sometimes it'll just drop off and die... I had to steal parts off another carb I had to attempt to make it run correctly and it's better but not perfect... still odd under 3Krpm... but really really strong above 3K....

      and that reminds me I need to pull the pilots out and look at em I think the previous owner swapped bigger ones in....

      I've also talked to a bunch of guys out in the chicago area that have ridden/raced the '83 GS550E/ES models and they are notorious for being finicky under 3Krpm anyway...

      Comment

        #4
        It will flood into the airbox if left on prime for too long. An hour or two...probably not, depends on outside temp and/or how much fuel in the tank.

        Sounds like you are rich on the bottom end. The idle screws are for idle mixture...1 turn is a huge adjustment. Go for a ride to get it warm, then move the screws back in small increments to get the best idle (I wouldn't go past stock setting, i.e. 1 turn back).

        I have an 85 (red/white), and it has never been the best idling bike (depending on the temp, it will vary a couple hundred rpms), but it usually holds the rpm constant.

        Isn't backfiring on letoff an air bleed jet issue?

        Use a prybar on that wallet and get a jet kit. It will be worth all the money it cost to end your frustration.

        Kenny

        Comment

          #5
          Thank you guys for all your help so far I have a few questions yet

          1. you said on prime it would take a day to flood mine did in 5 min is that bad

          2. how do I make up something to check the float levels

          3. What does the mix screw actually do is it allow more gas to flow past the screw or more air

          Thanks for all your help so far

          Comment

            #6
            5 minutes...bad...could be causing your rich condition. I think I might invest in new needles and seats.

            Mixture screw allows more fuel to run throught the circuit.

            I check the float height with my veneer calipers. Use the post the comes out the end, set my length, then set the post on the bowl mounting area (carb body), and see if the caliper body touches. (Boy is this a bad explanation!).

            Kenny

            Comment

              #7
              Yeah thats what I thought about the needles on the floats
              Thanks for the info on the air screw
              And I know exactly what you mean on the calipers I use them alot at work, good idea
              thanks

              Comment

                #8
                Does anyone know where I can get a 12mm compression tester for a 550ES 16valve
                Thanks

                Comment

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