More problems=More money

[Anonymous]

Still loving the GS resources. I have been using this site all the time for info and its been righ on......

Awhile back I had some ignition/fuel problems with my 78 1G. I got those sorted out so far. The bike was leaking fuel through the exhaust and running very rich. I cleaned the carbs and installed new points/condensers. Since Ive done that the bike runs great! But now the battery now will not hold a charge.

Is there any way those fixes could be having an effect? I also timed the bike to bring it closer to spec (there wasnt enough adjustment to bring it completely to specs). I plan to go over the bike with a multimeter as described in the STATOR PAPERS. But I gotta tell ya, me and electrical work go together like tofu and a fat kid. Any tips/help would be great. Thanks guys.

[SqDancerLynn1]

If you have a meter & the stator pages you are all set They are very well written

[IanFrancisco]

I would agree that the stator papers are a big help with one exception. The tests described for the RR are a little confusing. My brand new Electrex RR failed these tests and they were written by an Electrex guy! Using the diode test mode of a dig. multimeter I saw .5V with the red test lead connected to the RR black (ground) but did NOT see 1.5V with the red test lead connected to the red output wire of the RR. Since a rectifier is a diode bridge and diodes are designed to pass current only one way this portion of the test (checking for 1.5V) is the part I disagree with. The factory service manual only specifies continuity checks for the RR. They should pass current one way only and not the other (polarity reversed). Also there should be infinite resistance (OL) between the RR red and black (ground) wires.

[tfb]

I agree with you there, Ian. My RR (not the original item, but a newie I got through a motorcycle electrician here in Australia) also 'failed' the Stator Papers test. But like you I thought that diodes either pass current or they don't, depending on the polarity. And on that score, it checked out A-OK. Haven't had a problem since.

Gutter, do things methodically with the trouble-shooting charts in the Stator Papers. It's always tempting to think that there is a short-circuit somewhere, but the reason batteries are usually flat would be (in order of likelihood, IMHO):
1. Knackered battery (can't accept the charge offered). Check your fluid levels in the battery. Top up with distilled water/ rain water if necessary. Try your bike with a battery you know to be OK.
2. Burnt stator windings (can't generate any charge). Fork out $ for a rewound item. Check the output of each phase using the stator papers.
3. Stuffed reg/rect. (diodes cooked, and therefore not rectifying current from alternator, which then stuffs your battery because it can't handle all this unrectifed current being dumped in its lead-plated lap). Fork out $ for a newie.
4. Stuffed reg/rect. (current leaks back to earth when the bike's not running). Fork out...
5. Short circuit (current leaks away through other wire/ component). Attempt to isolate the offending circuit by removing one fuse at a time, and when it doesn't go flat, your short will be on that circuit somewhere.

One thing I did, was hook up a digital multimeter to the battery terminals, taped the unit to the tank, and went for a ride. This tells you what voltage is being produced at different engine speeds, lights on & lights off, etc. without you having to rev. the berries off the old girl. But bear in mind that you may well get a 'healthy' voltage reading at highway speed, eg. 14.5 volts, but you still may have no current, ie. amps. In which case the backside will probably drop out of the voltage the second you turn the lights on.

No doubt I've overlooked something, so some kind soul will correct me.

Mike.