Overheating?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I just added a last line to my other post while you replied, that's why the edit.

[Cajun Cycler]

Brad, my bike has done the same thing and it ended up being corrosion (that annoying powdery white stuff) on the fuse holder. Changing the fuse did nothing. Cleaning the contact areas where the fuse clips in did. I had replaced the original fuse block with a block I got from an electronic shop some time ago. My entire electrical system was shot and it took a piece by piece replacement to get it reliable. The last thing I did some months back was to remove every bullet plug I could access and solder the wires together. Eliminate the areas of corrosion and you pretty much fix the problem. Areas like switches and buttons benefit from applications of contact cleaner sometimes applied with cotton swab to get them clean enough. Just be patient and go over every component carefully. You will find the problem.

[bradleymaynar]

I think the first time you took the switch apart and aligned the "copper button", it was really the bike cooling off that allowed it to re-start and had nothing to do with you playing with the switch.

I realized this after the second time it died #-o . It had sat when I finally got it home the first time for nearly an hour. I rode about three miles and it did the same thing. Got a ride home and went back afer 45 minutes and it ran long enough to make it within a few blocks of home. I'm going to pull the fuse block in a little while (garage doesn't have a/c so I'm waiting for the heat to die down a little). Thanks again.

And Jim, I'm also praying that this isn't related to a the stator/reg-rec.

I'll also go through the connections. The bike has seen salt from last winter, so I'm sure this will definitely be needed.

Brad tt

[bradleymaynar]

Well here's an update. I took the fuse block off and looked at the backside. You could eat off the connections it's so clean (I didn't need to do anything). And I rode the bike for about an hour with no problems. I'm beginning to think that it was bad fuses (probably original) and a low battery. I still need to go through the connections, but I'll save that for a rainy day.

Thanks to all who replied!

Brad tt

[Joe Nardy]

Brad,

Did you check the stator AC output and the regulator DC output? These would be quick to do and would either diagnose the problem or eliminate two of the most common causes..................

Joe

[skreemer]

On my bike I could start it and it would run for about 15 - 20 minutes sometimes a half an hour and die I'd let it sit for 15 - 20 minutes come out and start it right up... I had all my lights and the ignition was going just no spark at all. I noted I had a low battery and charged it put it on the bike and the bike fired right up... ran for 20 minutes and quit. No spark again. I went over all the connectiors and connections I could find and they were all set....

I had lost the signal generator. I had a spare one thankfully... It's right in front of the clutchon the right side... where the "points" would be...

[bradleymaynar]

On my bike I could start it and it would run for about 15 - 20 minutes sometimes a half an hour and die I'd let it sit for 15 - 20 minutes come out and start it right up... I had all my lights and the ignition was going just no spark at all. I noted I had a low battery and charged it put it on the bike and the bike fired right up... ran for 20 minutes and quit. No spark again. I went over all the connectiors and connections I could find and they were all set....

I had lost the signal generator. I had a spare one thankfully... It's right in front of the clutchon the right side... where the "points" would be...

I'll keep that in mind. I'm hoping that the PO's storage and care left everything in decent shape. It's got just over 12K on the clock now and it seems that the fuses were in the worst shape. Keep in mind that I've ridden 1/3 of this bike's miles since getting it in November.

Brad tt