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1984 GS1150ES Vibrates alot on highway . . .

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    1984 GS1150ES Vibrates alot on highway . . .

    :? Can anything be done to reduce the fairing vibrations you get on 1150ES models. On the highway around 70mph it seems as tho there is just too much vibs to be normal. Bike has an aftermarket Lockhart windshield. Any other "faired" GS models experiencing this? Thanks, input appreciated.

    - Mike

    #2
    Re: 1984 GS1150ES Vibrates alot on highway . . .

    At that speed my 1150 is running about 4k rpm. If the carbs are more than 1 cm out of synch, the vibration level will be nearly intolerable. It will also help to check synch primarily for the rpm you use most frequently.

    An old, worn and hard front tire will also cause vibration, as will being out of balance. Any uneveness in the tread surface will vibrate the dickens out of you. LOL

    Stiff links in the drive chain, a stretched beyond limits chain or worn sprockets add to vibration levels a lot.

    Loosening and retorquing the engine mounts/rubber vibration dampers will help as these loosen and change over time.

    Check balance on the rear tire also.

    Mixtures too rich or too lean increase vibration. A good, clean, light tan plug burn is essential.

    Most important probably is the carb synch. 1150's do not like pretty close carb synchs. They demand spot on if you want a smooth bike.
    At 70 mph, mine is like sitting on a turbine. The mirrors are still. :-)

    Earl




    Originally posted by mlaalm
    :? Can anything be done to reduce the fairing vibrations you get on 1150ES models. On the highway around 70mph it seems as tho there is just too much vibs to be normal. Bike has an aftermarket Lockhart windshield. Any other "faired" GS models experiencing this? Thanks, input appreciated.

    - Mike
    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

    I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

    Comment


      #3
      Earl has it pretty much right, I would suggest you replace the rubbers in the front engine mount, it makes a big difference.
      Dink

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks Earl,
        Any brand of carb sticks you recommend?
        What tyre pressure do you run also if ya don't mind?
        I prefer my pressure on the high side of specs, I feel as tho the bike steers quicker.

        Really appreciate - Mike

        Thanks also Dink, nice scooter

        Comment


          #5
          I run 34 psi in my front tyre, any carb sticks will do, just remember you get what you pay for.
          Dink

          Comment


            #6
            Earl is correct, If the mixture is too rich it will vibrate to the point it will numb your hands. My bike had a similar problem. The needle valves were leaking. Before I figured out the problem I leaned the needles and the vibration almost went away. I would have never guessed that the jetting would have affected the vibration. Mike J

            Comment


              #7
              I run 34 psi front and 36 rear. I prefer the Morgan Carbtune, but any carb stix will work ok. The Morgan does not use mercury.

              Earl
              Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

              I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

              Comment


                #8
                I agree, after I had a carb sync on my GS750EF it was like a whole new bike, it also almost completely eliminated the slight cold engine clutch rattle I had and the bike ran alot smoother. It's worth having it done.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Changed the final gearing to 16/40 so vibes are bearable at 110 kph.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    :? Is the adapter size for the carb sticks going into the intake boots a 5mm or 6mm. :?

                    8) Appreciate the input on the gearing, I belive the bike has a 17 tooth on the front with the stock sprocket on the rear. I did'nt mention it on this forum but I had found some bar ends to replace the red-light-weight anodized ones that were on the bike. They should be in by Saturday. Maybe I'll even get some Gel-Grips.

                    Thanks everyone - Mike

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Use the 5mm adapters on the intakes. I dont use bar end weights. I have replaced my bars with hollow stainless steel 7/8" tube and no weights are needed.

                      Earl


                      Originally posted by mlaalm
                      :? Is the adapter size for the carb sticks going into the intake boots a 5mm or 6mm. :?

                      8) Appreciate the input on the gearing, I belive the bike has a 17 tooth on the front with the stock sprocket on the rear. I did'nt mention it on this forum but I had found some bar ends to replace the red-light-weight anodized ones that were on the bike. They should be in by Saturday. Maybe I'll even get some Gel-Grips.

                      Thanks everyone - Mike
                      Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                      I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                      Comment

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